RusherRacing

Well last year I had some transmission temperature issues during open road racing and track days. So I would like to look at cost effective ways to reduce it, I need this trans/diff to last atleast through this year. I put about 10,000 miles on this car during the summer, both road trips and racing. It gets a work out both on and off the track. Because of the amount of street driving I would like to keep the noise level to a realist db. So that rules out wrapped straight pipes atleast for now.

I know trans/diff coolers would be the best answer but I don't have the $$$ for it this year.

The car is stock as far as the motor/drivetrain/exhaust is concerned.

Exhaust Wrap,
I could wrap the exhaust pipes that run over the axle, however was told by a fellow racer that it can cause the heat to build up in the mufflers and actaully catch the interior on fire, it happened to his mallett... Anyone else ever hear of this? What is the general consenses about doing this.

Exhaust Cutouts,
Put in some manual cutouts that dump before the the transmission (maybe in the test pipe location etc not sure where the best location would be) I have heard this can actually increase temps not sure why doesn't make sense in my mind.

What are my other options?
I need help keeping the trans temps down without spending $$$. I am building a LeMons car and have a bunch of other irons in the fire so my budget is very limited for this year.

I have been running and plan to continue to run redline and I change it out after each time I "overheat" it. That in itself gets spendy.

Last C5

I had the same problem with my 01Z on the track. I solved it by having the over the axle pipes ceramic coated and then I wrapped them with the heat wrap insulation. I've been running two years now without turning the trans temp warning on and there haven't been any problems. I also run Redline's High Temp ATF.

NOTE: What the heat wrap people don't tell you Even after following the heat wrap instructions to the letter, the first time you get those pipes good and hot they will suddenly start to smoke so bad you'll think you're on fire. (At least that's what the turn personnel and I thought) It's just the wrap curing itself and will be fine by the next run and thereafter.

froggy47

Call Redline, I don't think you "have to" dump the fluid every time it gets hot.

longdaddy

i tried the heat wrap route and i was still getting over 275 degrees on tracks where I use 2nd gear several times/lap. so I bit the bullet and bought the LG cooler (no electric pumps, no switches, no noise, a lot of money)

cooler is the only real solution, if that's not an option, stay out of 2nd gear and change the fluid often if you want to save the trans.

I think most of the heat is generated by the transmission itself, not by the exhaust transferring heat to it.

meldog21

If you're going fast enough in hot or temperate conditions to get high trans temps the only real solution is to buy the trans and diff coolers. Yes it will cost you $1000-1500 and add some weight to the car, but they will provide the durability you are looking for.

There is no free lunch. Suck it up and install the coolers or be limited by high temps. I'm a poor bastard too. I just come in when I get the warning. It's up to you.

Dog

AU N EGL

Trans and diff coolers, Synthetic ATF in the trans and Diff fluids

the fluid changes help with temps

RusherRacing

Would you suggest something else besides the redline? Mobil 1?
I did call redline and they said the fluid was good to 400 something, don't remember the exact number. But I thought it would be best to flush the contamients etc after that abuse, it definately was dirty when I drained it.

I don't plan on running it as hard as last summer. I have the LeMons car to take the majority of the abuse. The vette will only see one or two track days, handful of autox's, and the SandHills Open Road Challenge. I haven't had issues at the sand hills, and will take it easy at the track days.


So no thoughts on the cut outs?

rustyguns

cheap solution:
ignore the tranny temp light and run redline synthetic shockproof in rear and redline D4 ATF in tranny!!!!!!

are you running stock clutch? that creates a crapload if heat too! get rid of any gm clutch ! they all slip at high rpms!

RusherRacing

Yes I am running the stock clutch.
Well that is the fluids I am running expect not hte shockproof but the gear oil redline recommends.

I guess I can ignore the light and hope everything holds.. till next season or when I can afford to get the proper setup I want. Clutch, Coolers, Built trans and Diff.

Redline doesn't recommend shockproof in the rear?? Not sure why

froggy47

I have never had cutouts, but it seems sort of extreme. Last resort after you have tried other solutions. The guys in the pits will not like you.

rustyguns

shockproof will drop the rear end temps 16 degrees

trackboss

which shock proof are you running? I've only used that in torsion type diffs as well as some transmissions. Didn't think it would work well on a clutch diff.

rustyguns

I use this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Red+Line+Oil/816/58404/10002/-1

for racing differentials ....



ShockProof Gear Oil Lightweight ShockProof 1 quart
Lightweight ShockProof A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions . It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil. Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

or....

heavy shockproof

Heavy ShockProof A unique lubricant containing a suspension of solid microscopic particles as an extreme pressure agent--unique solid dispersion which cushions gear teeth to help prevent tooth breakage and allows the use of lower viscosities. Recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions Off Road racing and problem gearboxes. The viscosity characteristics allow the lubricant to resist throwoff and provide a film thickness similar to a 75W250 grade while providing the same low fluid friction as an SAE 75W90.

trackboss

Did you notice any difference in cornering on the track vs. a more conventional rear end oil?
Which shock proof are you using now?

John Shiels

Pay now or probably pay later for diff and tranny. Only cheap solution is to short shift. Changing the fluid is not going to do anything except make you feel better. Been there and done that.

rustyguns

I USE THE BLUE BOTTLE AND REAR END WORKS GREAT !

SPECIAL LUBRICANTS DO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

96solo

I ran Redline Shockproof, now running what DTE recommends for their C5R Diffs, Redline 75-140. If a Corvette can handle it at Le Mans for 24 hours with no failures, it's good enough for me.

rustyguns

dte WHO?

96solo

DynoTech Engineering. Those guys that built the rear differentials for the Chevrolet C5R at Lemans? Yes, those guys.

davidfarmer

I talked to Tremec (they built the transmissions) 11 years ago, and they recommended trying a product by ProBlend. It is basically watter-wetter for your ATF. I've used it for 11 years.

If money is an issue, I'd certainly try adding the Pro-Blend, and wrapping your mid-pipe, and even insulating your tunnel plate. Unfortunately I think most of the heat is coming from inside the trans (shifting) not from the exhaust, but it might be just enough to get you by. Plus unless you are running really long sessions (over 30min) I don't think you are likely to hurt anything

http://www.jegs.com/i/Pro+Blend/797/6076/10002/-1