worldsaway

I'm an autox guy about to do a hpde at talladega with my '04 Z06. I'm reading all the cracked rotor threads and I have a few questions. Could someone post a picture of a cracked rotor so I know where I should be looking? Jeez, that sounds like I don't know what a rotor looks like or where it goes. No, I'm not gonna ask about changing my blinker fluid or replacing my muffler bearings next. Should I bring a spare set of rotors? I have a new set in the box, but they're baer accelarotor 2 pc drilled/slotted. Will those crack worse than 1 pc? Thanx. Ed

CHJ In Virginia

I don't have a pic of a cracked rotor, but you will certainly know what one is when you see it. Your rotors will heat checker from heavy use = Small spider web cracks in the surface of the friction area of the rotor. The cracks can be small but will eventually spread and if one reaches the perimiter of the rotor, its life is very short. Any spider crack that you can feel by running a finger nail across it is cause to discard the rotor in my opinion. I have had major failures where the crack is 1 1/2 to 2" long and breaks through the front surface completely. These usually happen in the pits when parked - always inspect prior to next run group after cool down ! Yes definitely take a spare set of fronts and forget about using the Baer drilled / slotted on the track - they will self distruct quickly with track use.

AU N EGL

AU N EGL

rotors dont crack on the track, they crack mainly do to drivers not taking the time too cool their brakes down.

After the checkered flag, slow down a bit, dont use the brakes, and drive around the paddock to get cool air on the rotors.

and once you stop, in about 5 min, move the car, 1/2 a wheel rotation.

Rotors crack do the heat difference between the HOT brake pad, the rotor storing heat next to the brake pad and parts of rotor not by the brake pad cooling down faster.

When you get that temp difference you get the unforgettable 'TING' sound of a rotor cracking.

Drive around a bit too cool your brakes down helps

Jason

Go to NAPA or autozone and buy a spare set of cheap ones to take to the track with you. If you don't need them, someone else will.

jaa1992

Someone like Jason

He is the king of cracked rotors!

CP Thunder

And don't set your E-brake..........!!!! Thats a tough one if you are in the HABIT of doing that.........put a post-it up on the dash somewhere if you have to but don't set that brake!!

And like AU N EGL said.........MAKE sure you move the car after a few mins. Keeps the pads off the rotors in one spot for too long and baking material onto the rotor.

You might not need a set of rotors (don't recommend drilled) but you might need a set of pads and some good brake fluid for a bleed if you overheat your brakes.

Last C5

And after you've done all this and settle back with a nice cold water sometimes you still get the dreaded 'TING' BUT, if you don't follow AU N EGL's advise you'll definitely get to hear it.

SouthernSon

Call Paul at Van Steele's in Fl. He has cryoed rotors that last at least twice as long as OEM. They are a little pricey, but then I don't mind paying the difference because I am tired of changing rotors at the track in the heat of mid afternoon sun!! He is a supporter of this web site, too.

WBHighwind

The dont use the brakes on the cool down lap is the biggest part IMO. You can maintain a good 50-60 mph for the whole cool down lap without a safety issue and at that speed its going to take a considerable amount of heat out of the brakes. I always try to use the brakes as little as possible on the cool down lap and let the car slow down on its own as Im approaching the pits.

Bill Dearborn

If you are going to be using the stock Z pads you probably will not crack a rotor. The people who crack rotors are usually using racing pads which operate at a much higher temperature than the stock pad. Although the Z pad is more aggressive than the standard C5 pad I ran my 97 for 3 seasons on stock pads before I needed to change the rotors. However, on my Z I have the DRM ducts, LG spindle ducts, use Wilwood H racing pads and I usually get 3 or 4 days out of a rotor whether it is made in the US, Canada or China.

Bill

gkmccready

For years I was told "don't use the brakes on the cool down lap." But in the past few years somebody explained that not using them can get you in trouble, too. Now I try to use them, but use them less and lighter as the cool down lap goes on. If you go cold-turkey on the brakes they can see the temperature change from one extreme to the other too quickly. If you ease back you can bring them down to "cool" more gradually.

flink

Yes, I prefer to use the brakes lightly on the cooldown lap too.

But it's probably pointless. The maximum rate of temperature change will happen at the time when the brakes are at their maximum temperature and when the air flow is at its maximum. In other words: when you're flying down the front straight.

If the rotors don't crack from rapid cooling on the front straight then they won't crack on the cooldown lap either.

A good reason for using brakes on the cooldown lap is so you can get your *** off the track faster