SteveDoten

INFO: 2002 Z06 133,000 miles, rear LHS bearing is showing major wear


1. GM pn 88967288 (AC/Delco box is what I've seen) $140 shipped
2. TIMKEN Part # 512153(found at auto parts zone) $140, same
3. SKF Bearing/ZR1 oe unit?? $380

I do NOT track the car(still in the sub 100k government pay scale ), I don't think the SKF unit is worth the extra coin for my street car(stock 405hp)

GM or Timken? or are they the same?

I have owned 6 C5's and the bearings seem to always need attention. Although most I have seen last past the 100k mark. (most of my cars are 100k plus cars, no worries on racking 20k miles/year)

MJM Racing LLC

AC Delco and Timken are exactly the same. They are simply reboxed for each supplier. Buy the SKF's so you will never have to worry about them again. And if you ever choose to track or autox the car, you already have the appropriate hubs. The stockers suck, why spend any money on them?

Jason

What wear are you seeing? Can you hear it "growling" in turns? Does it wobble when you shake the wheel? Make sure the bolts holding the hub are tight also.

FWIW, I Time Trial my car, and use the Timken. They last 2 years or so. Will probably last you another 100,000 miles.

BrianCunningham

I wonder what they changed on the ZR1?

SteveDoten

your bringing up some good points I forgot about, the BOLTS, I have heard of this from other track people, they back out

that 'could' be it, I need to get in there, at this point, it's just a shake test with the wheel, found it during a wheel swap

drbenne

definitely check the bolts before changing your bearing. You will need to separate the lower ball joint to get to the most inferior bolt. It is a 55 torx I think. If bolts are loose, consider using nordloc washers when you put bolt back in. This will prevent them from loosening again.If you do not track the car, I would not spend the money for the SKF bearings. (2+ times the cost and you got over 100k with the OEM bearings)

Jason

I mark the bolt heads so I can easily see if they have moved. I found a couple loose on my last bolt check, so now I've switched to red loctite. We'll see if that helps.

BrianCunningham

Check out LG's page on the new ZR1 bearings

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1970

SteveDoten

Pfadt also sells the SKF/ZR1 units

gonzalezfj

Tha SKF unit has:

1) Slightly larger bearings for additional load capacity

2) Bearings located slightly farther appart for additional load capacity

3) A more robust flange to avoid the flange separation (cracking) problem that some racers have seen after extended use on the track.

For street use, I would not spend the extra money for the SKF. For track use I have them in my car.

The stockers (or Timkens) will probably last you another 100,000 miles in street use.

Frank Gonzalez

BrianCunningham

Gary (Hardbar) does too

fhturner

If you don't intend to track the car anytime in the future, then the SKFs probably aren't worth the 3x cost. However, if you think you *might* start doing track events, they will hold up many times longer than the Timkens.

fatbillybob

Well there is a claim that the stiffer skf unit prevents brake componant flexing and hence pad knockback issues and thus better braking.

fhturner

Actually, it isn't brake component flexing that the SKF hub prevents, it is deflection of the wheel hub itself. This isn't really a concern except for on-track, high-load cornering, but when this deflection occurs, it allows the rotor to "wobble" (w/ respect to the caliper). This wobbling causes the rotor to push back on the pads slightly, and there then becomes a small gap between the pad and rotor. Upon entering the next brake zone, you can get a really long pedal because most of your pedal effort is being used to push the pads back up against the rotor... The solution is to either tap the pedal w/ your left foot going down the straightaway, or buy SKF hubs!

0C5stein

MSI has the SKF and the GM or Timken as well.
For your C5 or C6 I'd stick with the GM or Timken for street use and occational track days.
SKF really are for severe use application or severe overkill for a street car.
Here is a good one, a few weeks ago, my local parts houses and the dealer were out of GM and Timken hubs, but I found some Raybestos units for a super low price. The customer was leaving on a trip so we had the Raybestos units delivered (which we had never tried in the past) in order to check them out. I opened the box and "voila", Timken bearings at a significant savings for the customer. Got the same savings by ordering Raybestos bearings for a C4

ghoffman

No question, this is true. It does not take much deflection to cause this.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

I can see GM and Timken being the same part, but I do not know 100% for sure.

Now GM does have their 'race bearings' that we used in the Challenge cars that we found to last about 5 times longer (5-6 races vs 1 weekend on the stock units).

The SKF hub was just released last year and looks to be much stronger, and was even chosen for the new ZR1.

Now it should be noted that you can not go to GM and get a 2009/10 ZR1 bearing and use on your 2002 Corvette as they have a larger spline axle on the ZR1 and also the reluctor wheel is different for the speed sensor so they are not interchangeable.

Tires are going to be probably one of the most damaging factor to the wheel bearings. Most with the factory slider calipers will not see this as much as the caliper will move as the rotor and bearing deflect, but you will see this much more on a fixed style caliper like StopTech, Brembo....

ghoffman

No matter what bearings you choose, you really should use our fastener kit. This is a replacement fastener kit for the front and rear C5/C6 wheel bearings. This kit uses 12 point reduced head grade 12.9 (175, 000 PSI) M12 cap screws, Nordlocs, and an M14 nut with Nordloc for the lower ball joint. Can be used with the OE or our new SKF bearings. The OE Torx head bolts loosen, and the head strips out. With these you use a standard 12mm 12 point socket and they allow proper torque for greater reliability and ease of assembly and removal. Can be used many times. This kit is now compatible with brake duct kits that have a 1/8 thick flange.

Red Locktite will not do anything, especially when it is all hot. The issue is that the OE fasteners lock up in the aluminum-to-steel bolt interface. Nordlocks fix that issue, but the OE bolts would be too short then. Nobody has ever had a bearing fastener loosen up with our kit ever. The 12 point cap screws are made in USA, not PRC! Nordlocks are made in Sweden.

We offer the SKF bearings with racing studs (longer) or standard studs as well.

http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=136

http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=111

http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=115

0C5stein

[QUOTE=ghoffman;1570818669] Nordlocks are made in Sweden.
[QUOTE]

Oh I get it!

ghoffman

[QUOTE=C5stein;1570824054][QUOTE=ghoffman;1570818669] Nordlocks are made in Sweden.
That was for John Shiels benefit!