gkmccready

When you're checking those poly bushings in your control arms, check out your swaybars, too. I've got poly bushings front and rear, and spaced the brackets, and lubed up the swaybars when installed.

I was replacing a clunking endlink yesterday and noticed with both ends of the bar disconnected the swaybar was difficult to turn. I pulled the bushings off the frame and they were dry as a bone, and worse, the rubbing on the bar was so bad that the paint had started to be rubbed off the bar. Again, when installed the bushings were lubed and spacers added to let the bar turn fairly easily.

Time to add "lube the poly" to the checklist for at least one a season... my swaybar bushings are from VBP, my control arms bushings are Pfadt.

thehammer69

I saw where somebody said to use anti-seize as the lube. Supposedly it tends to not go away. I think I may try it when my new VB&P bar comes in. Or maybe Saltwater grease. That stuff tends to stay where put well too.

trackboss

I've used anti-seize and it worked OK. Most recently I went back to poly lube. Seems to work the best and last the longest. Still required re-lube often depending on use. I noticed my front sway bar moves side to side quite a bit and I'm sure that just pushes the grease out much faster.

naschmitz

What lube did you use, Glen? The sticky silicon grease like Pfadt sells with their bushings?

gkmccready

That's what VBP sent originally. I didn't have any yesterday with the car up so I used wheel bearing grease -- somebody else had suggested trying it a while back.

I suspect I'm going to suck it up and buy the bucket o' poly lube that Energy Suspension offers since I'll need it for the control arms, too.

trackboss

FWIW, the individual packs that prothane sells are a lot less messy than the bucket. I got mine from summit. I think they come three at a time. I simply bought extras to have on hand.