thehammer69

Here's my situation....

Went to Virginia to the concrete at ACU-4 with Pfadt shocks, stock springs, 32mm hollow Addco in front and C6 Z51 25.4mm sway in rear. The tires were SS sized Hoosier A6 295's and 315's even though I'm running ASP. Car actually worked great and I left happy with the performance but I also corded the front 295's while there (they were old).

Now to this past weekends Autocross on asphalt in N. Charleston, SC. Since the 295's were corded, I picked up a 3 heat cycle pair of 315's from a T1 racer who is on this board. I mounted them on a pair of OEM C5Z wheels I had. I installed these newer 315's on the rear and moved the older 315's to the front. I figured since I was now running a "square" set up, that the stickier tires should be on the back to maintain some form of balance. I also added a couple clicks of damping to the front shocks to go with having larger front tires. So anyway, I actually performed very well and my raw time was 6th out of 190 cars. The car was fast, BUT it was too loose. I feel if the car wasn't too loose, I could have rivaled the fastest car there.

So, now is the time where I'm looking for opinions. I'm thinking of going up to a 35mm tubular Addco in the front. I can get one for about $220. I also noticed VB&P had a similar size (1-3/8") tubular bar kit listed on their site with zero information listed. The price is $80 less before Cf discount, which makes it very appealing. And then I could either buy Pfadts's Street Sway bar set or wait for a guy who says he has the front from that set for $300 to get back to me.

Anybody have experience with the VB&P bar I mentioned? Any other suggestions as to what I should do to take the car closer to neutral in handling? Understand I run on Asphalt almost all the time, concrete is only a once in a "blue moon" thing for me.

Pylons

I am running the Addco 35mm hollow with the C6 Z51 rear bar in SS on my C6...very happy with that combo.

froggy47

Solofast

First, swap the tires front to rear and see if the car is pushing now.

Even tho these are newer the heat cycles that they saw were much more severe than autocross heat cycles. They might not be as sticky as the tires that you moved to the front. Having tires that are different in life on each end of the car is a sure way to end up chasing a setup. You should really have equal tires on each end of the car before you start making changes...

Where is it loose and how loose is it? Corner entry, mid-corner, corner exit, braking, fast transitions, everywhere, or just some places......

Where it is loose will determine what you want to do to fix it.

If it is in steady state stuff, you want to increase front roll stiffness, or figure out how to add more grip in the back. If it is just in transients, work with the shocks.

Get the front end to bite and the back end to follow and that's the fast way around...

thehammer69

I realize this isn't 100% accurate...but with the redneck Durometer (my thumbnail). The newer 3 heat cycle A6's are noticeably softer than my old A6's.

NemesisC5

RAFTRACER

When you go from concrete to asphalt you need to reduce the rear sway bar................

Put the stock C5 Z06 rear bar on the car or a late C5 Z51 rear bar (22mm) and you will be amzed how much better the car is.......

Works for me...but I'm just a roadrace hack now j/k I still play with the pylons....and I still like it !!!

thehammer69

I have considered going back down in size on the rear bar. I think I would like to at least try a larger front bar first and tweak from there.

Anybody have any experience with that VB&P 35mm (1 3/8") front bar?

RAFTRACER

, and the smaller rear bar on the asphalt.........works good unless the corners are real tight....it'll be a 'lil pushy..

I'd still try going down in rear bar first.....you'll be suprised in how much more power you can stick into the ground.

thehammer69

I forgot to mention...my region tends to be the tight corner type. Except for our next event which will be on the "black Lake" at the Michelin Proving grounds in Laurens, SC. That is the one venue we have that we really can make large & fast national style courses. Otherwise I'm usually in the boat of trying to make the car rotate on courses that S2000's really work well on.

So Danny, have you ever messed with that specific VB&P bar? I know you have played with the Addco 35mm.

thehammer69

Well, I went ahead and ordered the tubular 35mm (1 3/8") VB&P bar. I figured for the price, it was worth a try. $139.99 minus 20% discount equals $111.99. It comes with graphite impregnated Poly bushings but no helm links. I already have a set so no need to order any. I guess I will find out how it works. Just surprised nobody else hasn't piped up about using it.