kwhiteside

I'm down to two choices.

Lingenfelter Oil Cooler $600
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C54

Or the Dewitts Radiator/Oil Cooler combo $845
Radiator/EOC http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=350
Adapter http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=429
I'm not 100% sure if these two are everything I would need.

I also run about 240-250 degrees water temp at the track in Hotlanta.

argonaut

I have the DeWitts with right side EOC and the Lingenfelter adapter. I've done 7 track days with it thus far and don't think I've seen an Oil temp above 240 yet. In retrospect I would go with the DeWitts adapter because it has the oil pressure bypass. With the Lingenfelter adapter - 100% of the oil must go thru the cooler, this leads to an overall drop in oil pressue. Running 5W30 my pressures, at temp, were in the 20s. I switch to to 15w50 and it brought the pressure up into the the 30s.

kwhiteside

I forgot to mention I'm wanting to do the install, and don't want to have to mess with sizing lines, putting ends on, or mixing pieces from various vendors to get a solid solution, unless it comes packaged and proved like East Cost Corvette sometimes does. I've heard nothing but horror stories about leaks from guys who are really really mechanical and great drivers. I don't want to have to waste a track day or two messing with a leak. Couple hundred corvette tax is worth it if it just fits and can be an easy DIY install.

gkmccready

Not considering the DRM/Ron Davis set up? That's what I chose... Rad+EOC+TOC all in one, mates to factory lines on the C6.

0Randy@DRM

We offer a complete package in two different flavors.

Stand alone, uses a Setrab cooler, mounts in front of the radiator. I don't think this is the best for you.

Our EOC radiator, comes with a Ron Davis Racing radiator with passenger side EOC. Comes with pre-made lines, Swivel easy to use hose ends. Block adapter with steel adapter fittings, New GM gasket. Many have been extremely happy with this package. We sell it for 1195.00 shipped to the lower 48 states.


Randy
www.dougrippie.com
763-477-9272

tcmc5

Nice EOC unit at good price
http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...Oil+Components

DRM combo set-up works great.

2002rich

That's what I have

RaleighSS

I bought this kit .... have seen a few other members get it as well

Mine came exactly as pictured except it had the black fire protection Sleeve on both of the hoses...

http://tpis.com/index.php?module=cat...Oil+Components

kwhiteside

50% more than the Dewitts solotion, 70% more than Lingenfelter. Looks great, but

Joe_Knesek

A friend of mine races hydroplanes and their Roush built Chevy Ecotec motors use these Mocal heat exchangers. I think they would work well in our application as well.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...eat_Exchangers

0Tom@Dewitt

Sounds like you want to address both oil cooling and engine cooling and the above package will do that. It is a complete package and you can install this yourself.

AlwaysInBoost

I wanted max cooling for my boosted motor so rather then getting the rad/oil cooler combo I went with a custom Dewitts rad, suggested by Arun @ Champion Mostorsports, and a stand alone oil cooler.

the results have been better then I expected. at an open track event a couple days ago the highest coolant temp logged on track was 230 and the highest oil temp I saw was 238. I would have to go out and take it easy for the first couple laps until the fluids warmed up.

kwhiteside

Tom, I've seen some posts suggesting the EOC on driver side is best, but most people say the right is best. Please tell me what you recommend and give me the part numbers.

Could you send me the install instructions (or link) for both the radiator and the EOC adapter kit ken.whiteside@dataxperts.net. In Atlanta, it gets real cold in the winter. How does this solution deal with letting the oil temps rise if it is cold outside?

ErnieN85

There isn't much advantage to the Left side mount it really doesn't warm the oil on startup very quickly, and the right side is much easier to hook up

0Tom@Dewitt

I'll have to disagree with ErnieN85 on the right side/left side opinion. It's obvious the water temperature in the right tank is lower than in the left side because it has passed through the radiator and in most cases people assume the right side is better. The eoc is a heat exchanger and it will work very well with only a 20 degree deltaT between water temps and oil temps. So if you are using 240 water (left side) or 220 water (right side) to cool down 285* oil both with work about the same. Both are going to remove the heat in the oil and transfer it to the water. The advantage to dumping this heat into the left tank is that it has a chance to disapate before returning to the engine, as in the right side.
And since the right side is slightly higher in temp, it will warm up the cold oil quicker. The left side is closer to the adpater pad above the oil filter, so the lines are shorter, cheaper, less pressure drop, and you can use the factory C6 assembly which includes the very important bypass valve. We modify this assembly for C5's to include a temp sender port which C6 did not use. I don't have installation instructions on these as they are simple remove and replace items. You could probably use a standard service manual for that. We do have an article in our download section called Twice as Ice which was a how to article. Hope that helps

kwhiteside

Thanks Tom, I was expecting that response as I saw it elsewhere. I'm about 90% sure I'm going to order exactly what you recommend. I'm going to wait a couple days to override that 10% wierd feeling. I've researced the forums searching for Dewitt and just about everybody says if you get Dewitt, get the passenger side. You must admit Tom, its a bit odd when the maker/manufacturer recommends one thing, yet everybody purchasing his product goes another way. I'm just trying to be objective here and not trying to offend, but I'm guessing two possible explanations would be -

1. Product has changed recently so the new recommendation is now better.

2. Company not in touch with real needs of the market it serves. (again if you search, you will find about 20 people using your product stating opposite what you recommend.)

Please don't be offended and note that I'm about ready to ignore the masses and take your advice. Its just that the masses are usually right, especially when they are the hardcore ones actually beating the crud out of these cars.

ErnieN85

Tom, either seems to cool just fine your radiator is plenty big enough. The thing is it's very hard to connect the hoses on the left side. I know I'm a customer of yours. and no it really didn't warm the oil much until the thermostat opens, street deiving took a long time to warm the oil and coolant, it works great on track either way that said it propably wouldn't warm much slower on the right side.
My observation was simply the install difficulty.

kwhiteside

Hey Ernie, I didn't realize you were the same guy I just bought the Wilwoods from. Guess you know I wasn't BSing you about the mod overexposure.

Look forward to the brake kit. Why don't you just sell me your Dewitts used for a great price? You didn't use it in the C6 did you?

kwhiteside

Randy, I'm leaning towards the Dewitts solution as I've not heard anything bad about them and your solution is 50% more cost wise. I did puchase one of you Brake Duct kits from ECC last week though

0Tom@Dewitt

You're right, it does seem a little bit wierd.
#1. Nothing has changed
#2. The market is not in touch with what works best

That might sound cocky but I'm 100% sure this is the best way to handle it and so did the GM engineers when it came to C6 Z51 packages. I'm willing to bet that GM's R & D proved the left side to be good enough and they have more data on it that everyone on the CF combined.
I think the problem I have is that I was the last one in the radiator business to offer the EOC option. Guys like becool and ron davis were offering EOC options way before me. When GM introduce a factory eoc in the 2005 we had to create one in order to offer a Direct Fit radiator for C6. By the time we came out with one the market standard was already set, which was the right side tank with monster size hoses. The hose size and the bypass is a whole other subject that I preach and nobody listens. Don't ask me why, I can't figure it out. I call it my thread killer. I will post something about using a GM assembly with bypass and BAM, that thread will be frozen in time.
At the risk of putting you guys asleep, which usually happens when I talk about this, I will explain how I came about our eoc and recommendations. At the time I was working with GM engineers on some prototype radiators at the GM proving grounds in Milford for the ZR1. We didn't end up with the contract but I learned a lot about engine oil cooling. The first thing I found out was oil/water coolers are not designed to handle the full flow of the oil pump when at very high rpm. I was given flow curves of the GM eoc (which was a three plate stainless steel unit) and heat rejection data. The goal wasn't to jump on the bandwagon and just do the same thing everyone else was doing but rather do it better. Since the stock oil cooler was limited in flow we decided to make the biggest cooler we could fit inside the end tank, and that turned out to be a 7 plate aluminum unit. This tripled the btu rating of the stock stainless unit but it didn't do much for the pressure drop. When I was laying out the first eoc (rightside) radiator I noticed that all the oil coolers on the market bolted up to the tank with a gasket and the cooler all but blocked the water outlet connection to the water pump. This was not acceptable so we revise the cooler mounting on offsets, so the cooler was more centered in the end tank. The photo below shows an early prototype six plate with the GM unit and you'll see how close to the wall the other are.



GM engineers explained to me the value of the bypass and being a hydraulic engineer for 20 years I got it right away. The right side, full volume, design required really long hoses and the coolers could not handle the full pump volume and huge pressure drops existed. I saw people change from #8 hoses to #10 hoses to #12 hose and I even had one guy want to use #16 hoses! The theory (without any data) was that if you increased the hose diameter you would decrease the pressure loss, which is true, but you only decreased it by a few psi when the eoc was creating 50-70 psi drop. In hydraulics, high pressure drops mean that energy is transfered into heat, the exact thing you are trying to get rid of. So here I am, the industry standard is set and everyone is doing it wrong.
We needed an adpater with a bypass and nobody was making one, nor does anyone to date. I designed a small little block with a 7 psi check valve in it and it worked great. The only problem was it was too big and it interfered with most headers. But wait, GM already makes exactly what I am looking for! They have a hose assembly that fits all LS series motors and all we have to do is add provisions for the C5 temp switch. Some have complained that they have to remove the left motor mount to get this in there but I think that's a minor issue. Some feel the rubber hoses are going to wear and be a problem later but that is based on pass experiences of running long hoses all over the engine compartment and rubbing on stuff.

Look at this, read it, think about it. It just makes more sense.
http://www.dewitts.com/download/eoc.pdf

The eoc sees 2 gpm (gallons per minute) at idle and only 3 gpm at mx rpm. Since you are not crambing the entire pump volume thru the cooler you no longer need big diameter lines. We made the port connections the same as the GM unit so you can use AN fittings for the big testosterone stainless steel hose right side coolers or you can simply screw in the GM type quick connect fittings and snap in the lines. I think the reason this kills so many threads is that nobody can argue with data, tests, and logic when they only have everyones' doing it as a come back.