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LS3 Batwing oil pan part # ??

Old 06-16-2009, 01:45 PM
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AU N EGL
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Default LS3 Batwing oil pan part # ??

Anyone have a GM part number for the LS3 Batwing oil pan?

Cant find that #

TIA
Old 06-24-2009, 08:10 PM
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Don O.
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Default Pan

I would like to know too!

Don
Old 06-24-2009, 09:38 PM
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I thought that was a 1-off piece, didn't know they were selling them now
Old 06-24-2009, 10:10 PM
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we got a slightly used ( one time) pan.

Thanks
Old 06-25-2009, 03:14 PM
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DOH. found out the LS6 oil pan is a bat wing. and will fit the LS3. Only slight different.
Old 06-25-2009, 03:17 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
DOH. found out the LS6 oil pan is a bat wing. and will fit the LS3. Only slight different.
Aren't the LS6 and LS1 pans the same bat wing?

Bill
Old 06-25-2009, 03:19 PM
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I think so. But a friend of mine has an LS3 with the older or normal LS3 oil pan and that is NOT a bat wing.

Guy put on an oil cooler and is getting into tracking his car, and we know about those high speed left handed sweepers and LS motors.
Old 06-25-2009, 03:24 PM
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LS6 Batwing probably will not fit LS3 with stock exhaust manifolds and convertors.....
Old 06-27-2009, 07:45 AM
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Don O.
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Raft is correct with his comment. It will fit a C5 with a LS3/L92 with headers.
The "bat wing" for early LS1's is a one piece pan and the later LS1 and LS6 pan is a two piece pan. The LS3 "bat wing" is a special GM Racing piece which has different baffling inside. I have been looking for one but it is a hard piece to find. It is also very expensive and not for the average user.
If any see's this I am interested in one of the LS3 "bat wings"!

Hope this helps!

Don
Old 06-27-2009, 08:25 AM
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My friend found a NEW LS3 batwing for $15-$1600 . But we were able to find a one time use one for $1,000

he does track his LS3 C6 and has put an oil cooler on. But could not afford a whole dry sump system.
Old 06-27-2009, 10:37 AM
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The pan kept my car alive, but did nothing for the oil consumption, temperature, puking into the intake, and the oil pressure still dropped as the race went on...to dangerously low levels.

After a full year and half with this LS3, I don't recommend anything other than a full-blown dry sump system. It's worth it. You're going to spend $2K for the bat-pan and install; whereas you'll spend $5K for a full dry sump system that apparently works infinitely better (according to my fellow LS3 racers).

Spend the extra $$ and get the sump!!!!!!!!!
Old 06-27-2009, 11:46 AM
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Here's an interesting take. There was a guy on here several years ago, or maybe ls1tech, doing an LS swap and because the batwing pan he had wouldn't fit in the car, he modified it by cutting the sides off and welding flat alum. plates in their place.
Old 06-29-2009, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by wtknght1
The pan kept my car alive, but did nothing for the oil consumption, temperature, puking into the intake, and the oil pressure still dropped as the race went on...to dangerously low levels.
Have you tried pushrods w/ oil restrictors in them? These track-run LS engines tend to pool the oil in the top end of the motor at high RPM. Smith Brothers makes pushrods w/ restrictors designed specifically to limit this pooling. I used to have half a Prestone jug's worth of oil out my overflow/catch-can after 2-3 sessions. Now I have maybe an ounce or 2 after a full weekend. Also eliminated starvation at the pickup and subsequent low oil pressure messages after hard braking or cornering. Just a thought...

Fred
Old 06-29-2009, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fhturner
Have you tried pushrods w/ oil restrictors in them?
Fred
Not legal in T1.
Old 06-29-2009, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fhturner
Have you tried pushrods w/ oil restrictors in them? These track-run LS engines tend to pool the oil in the top end of the motor at high RPM. Smith Brothers makes pushrods w/ restrictors designed specifically to limit this pooling. I used to have half a Prestone jug's worth of oil out my overflow/catch-can after 2-3 sessions. Now I have maybe an ounce or 2 after a full weekend. Also eliminated starvation at the pickup and subsequent low oil pressure messages after hard braking or cornering. Just a thought...

Fred
My concern with the restricted P/R is that at what point is it restricted too much? If its restricted too much it will heat the valvetrain and cause it to be brittle. Not picking at you Frederick, the way I normally do, but you better be dead on, or on the safe side of a little too large to be safe.
Old 06-30-2009, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by fhturner
Have you tried pushrods w/ oil restrictors in them? These track-run LS engines tend to pool the oil in the top end of the motor at high RPM. Smith Brothers makes pushrods w/ restrictors designed specifically to limit this pooling. I used to have half a Prestone jug's worth of oil out my overflow/catch-can after 2-3 sessions. Now I have maybe an ounce or 2 after a full weekend. Also eliminated starvation at the pickup and subsequent low oil pressure messages after hard braking or cornering. Just a thought...

Fred
It may not be legal for T1, but might be an option for HPDE drivers
Old 06-30-2009, 08:26 AM
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Out of curiosity, what evidence is there to support the theory that too much oil is pooling in the heads, relative to other cam-in-block V8s? Or is it a common problem with all SBCs?

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To LS3 Batwing oil pan part # ??

Old 06-30-2009, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by GrantB
Out of curiosity, what evidence is there to support the theory that too much oil is pooling in the heads, relative to other cam-in-block V8s? Or is it a common problem with all SBCs?
You mean other than the fact that about 1/2 a quart of oil will get puked into the intake?

I put a catch can on my car from the top of the head to the PCV valve line and then to the side of the intake tube. After every session (normally 20 minutes), I have to empty the can - a full .5 of a quart! Apparently the dry sump solves this issue.
Old 06-30-2009, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by wtknght1
You mean other than the fact that about 1/2 a quart of oil will get puked into the intake?

I put a catch can on my car from the top of the head to the PCV valve line and then to the side of the intake tube. After every session (normally 20 minutes), I have to empty the can - a full .5 of a quart! Apparently the dry sump solves this issue.
OK, but a half a quart over an entire 20-minute session isn't a ton of oil. I haven't pulled apart the PCV baffling on a LS motor, but I'd think if the heads were flooded with oil you'd get that half a quart after only a few laps.

Why vent the valve covers instead of the valley cover? The later should help oil starvation, at least in theory. Venting the valve covers causes blow-by gases to try to escape via the same channels as oil is using to make its way back into the sump, so its thought that doing so keeps more oil up in the heads. How much this actually affects anything I can't say.

Aside from valve cover-venting setups, I don't see how a dry sump could remove oil from the heads unless it had scavenge pumps up there.

Kevin at crank-scrapers.com pointed me towards these, and other similar products:
http://www.turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pu.../Exa-Pump.html

The idea is that you scavenge oil from places where its puddling and pump it back into the pickup area. You could have a pump on each valve cover, or one on each wing of the pan. The two-piece batwing pans might allow an installation without having to remove the upper pan.

That doesn't help T1 racers of course, and more oil in the pan under hard cornering also means more aeration.
Old 06-30-2009, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by GrantB
OK, but a half a quart over an entire 20-minute session isn't a ton of oil.
You're kidding right?! Oh, did I mention that not only was the catch can full, but the engine also eats another 1/2 a quart or more. So basically every time I go out, I have to add another quart. In a full 30 minute race, I lose 2 full quarts - 1.5 to the engine and .5 to the can. Again, the dry sump is supposed to cure it.

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