vettejockey

Does anyone have intalllation procedures and usage specs on the Pfadt Camber Kit just got one no instruction.

I have a C6 coupe and got a track allignment last year which may have changed.

The online instuctions seeem very short/weak and the lack of pics doesn't help much

davidfarmer

it should be obvious to anyone that is familiar with suspension setup. You replace the OEM concentrics with the "fixed" plates. You have have a full set of variable plates, or fixed plates and then shim the uppers.

dbratten

In general, you replace the eccentric bolts with the solid notched plates. In front, on the lower arms, place a pair of 6-notch plates in the front and a pair to the rear of the lower arm on both sides of the car. This is to give you the maximum starting adjustment to then set your camber.

On the top in front, replace the four bolts holding the upper A-arm in place with studs. Remove any spacer washers for now from behind the upper arms. You will now be adjusting your camber and caster using washers or U-shaped shims (old-school) placed behind the upper arms.

Each car will vary due to manufacturing differences but I found that I use up to five 1/8" shims on top to reach zero camber for street use and as much camber as I need to race. Each 1/8" shim I remove gives approximately .7 deg of camber change (pulling out 3 = -2.2 deg.)

When first setting the alignment I found that to maintain consistent side-to-side settings for caster I used a pair of 5-notch plates on one lower A-arm corner (vs. 6-notch). I also used a washer behind one of the upper arms (on two studs) to even out side-to-side differences for camber. Once these adjustments were made I am able to remove an equal number of 1/8" shims (from all eight studs) to make changes. You can, of course, make finer adjustments to camber by using thinner 1/16" (or smaller) shims to adjust.

On the rear, I am using a pair of 3-notch plates on one side of the car and a pair of 2-notch on the other side to give an equal camber setting (again due to manufacturing differences.) These plates go in the front of the lower A-arm replacing the eccentric bolt. Two plates are used per side.

To make camber adjustments on the rear, you change the notched plates an equal amount side-to-side. I found that each notch is approximately .35 deg. change. A 4-notch change being roughly 1.4 deg.

Each time you change your camber you must adjust your toe. If you use the plates to set a track alignment and also a street alignment you will find that adjusting toe becomes a fixed adjustment also. For instance, on the front I am able to move the toe 13 flats (the rod has 6 flats in a full turn) to move between my race alignment and my street alignment. On the rear, it's 20 flats. Each flat is worth approximately 1/32" per side in toe. Moving 13 flats per side is roughly 13/16" in toe measurement.

I normally check thrust angle every 3-4 changes as in time it will get off even though your toe will be correct. I use David Farmer's methods to do my own alignments.

--Dan

vettejockey

Thanks for the detailed write up that is what I was looking for.

spazegun2213

I'd just call pfadt, I'm sure they have a PDF install guide on their site, or could send you one

bowtiguy

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/?page_id=8

C6 camber kit ( differs from C6Z)

remeber, the CNC milled "plates" are installed round corners up.

Hope that helps!