waddisme

After installing cooler, measuring, remeasuring, and remeasuring lines, cutting lines and installing fittings, the LPE adapter will not work on my engine because the knock sensor is right above where the fitting would go over the outlet from the adapter. I tried getting the 120*, the 90* and a 45* fitting to work, but no room.. Motor is a 402 block with LS6 oil pan, so I do not feel comfortable doing the oil filter adapter and lowering the filter. Any ideas? Oil temps were +290 at VIR last Dec after 4 laps, so I cannot track it until I do something. HELP!!!

RAFTRACER

Picture of the side of the engine where you have problems ......??

Before I dry-sumped, I had the DRM block on my LS2 block and the oil cooler lines would clear the knock sensor. I had used the original LS2 knock sensor location and just drilled and tapped for the LS6 sensor, which located right in the middle of the left side pan rail really low by the oil pan.....

waddisme

Unfortunately, when I was putting the new motor in, I saw where the holes for the knock sensor should go, which is where you are talking about. But after the motor was installed and I was hooking everything up, I did not realize the hole had to be tapped and I could not get the sensor hole tapped, so I installed sensor in another spot, which happens to be right above the oil temp sensor. There is another spot below one of the spark plugs where I could move sensor to maybe, but it looks too close to the header. I can get some pics tonite if that will help.

RAFTRACER

If you remove the left header , you ought to be able to drill and tap the LS2 OEM sensor location for the LS1-6 sensor......

spazegun2213

Umm, how about a remote oil filter? Seriously, grab a filter relocation kit, and just do this:

Block --------oil filter------|
Block--------oil cooler-----|


Sure its another $100 or so, but it works!

mgarfias

I agree with spazegun. A side benefit is plumbing the cooler in with a remote filter adapter gets you a larger oriface to push oil through than the little one in the block adapter.

waddisme

Sounds promising. I already have the header 1/2 out and lines measured and cut. I will do some research. Thanks.

sperkins

Jeez. It's always something. You have 2 options. Relocate the sensor or install a remote oil filter. There's no other way around it. I hate it for you man - that job is a pain in the azz even without the problems you're having.

waddisme

Actually the remote oil filter looks promising and pretty easy to do. I may try to tap the block and move the sensor if it is not too much trouble, but the remote looks like my best option. Thanks guys. I feel much better than I did last night.

sperkins

Just make sure you don't get one that uses hose clamps.

AlwaysInBoost

waddisme, do you have any worry that the knock sensor isn't in the correct location?

I have to believe that GM engineers spent a good amount of money to R&D block and can't help but think that they picked that specific location for a reason. just saying...

waddisme

According to TSP where I got the motor, they said anywhere on the block was fine and I have had no issues that I know of.


"Just make sure you don't get one that uses hose clamps"

I think I will just get the adapter. I have a feel now for making lines. Of course I don't know if mine will leak yet. Thanks.

spazegun2213

yea, the relocation might not be the easiest on the wallet, but it may be the easiest to install.

AN lines are super easy to make, and setrab can provide any info you'll need on adapters for their oilcoolers (which i HIGHLY recommend).

sperkins

And for bloody fingers...

trackboss

How about just turning the knock sensor off electronically and simply not installing it? Until I had my C5 I never had a vehicle with knock sensors. With the exception of picking up bad fuel I don't see why they are all that necessary. Just a thought.

mgarfias

I went with one of these canton deals:

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=22-593

I did have to acquire a 1/2" NPT tap, and tap the threads deeper, as they were fairly shallow from the factory, and it was a fitment issue. Once that was done, it worked great.

waddisme

That seems like the simplest way. Does a tuner have to do that? What happens if they are not plugged in - just a thrown code?

trackboss

As far as unplugging them I am not sure, but I would imagine a tuner can turn them off.

AlwaysInBoost

I would advise against removing your knock sensor!

sure, it might save you the hassle of finding a way to hookup your oil cooler now, but it also very well might be the reason why you have to pull your motor down the road for a rebuild.

In the middle of July, while blasting down the straight of your favorate track in 4th @ 130 do you want to be thinking "i sure hope that gas I just put in the tank really was 93, hope my motor is OK", or would you rather that thought never enter your mind because you already KNOW your motor is fine cause the ECU is doing its thing?

for me the solution has always been clear, do it right or do it twice. I chant that mantra in my head all the time while I work on my cars to remind that I'd rather be racing then wrenching.

waddisme

Enough said, I have removed that thought from my head. I have a remote oil filter kit coming tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get it all installed tomorrow night and still find a track day. I was looking forward to going to VIR next week..