Lumber Extension Ramps Banned at Race Tracks!!!
02-16-2009, 12:43 PM
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Lumber Extension Ramps Banned at Race Tracks!!!
We believe they should be!
The "Best Way to Get it Up" is with a ramp that won't kick out or slide away.
Just wanted you guys to know were having a "Stimulus Plan" sale running through the 22nd.
Race Ramp's Stimulus Plan Details:
Everything we make will be offered at a 15% discount, with the second item shipping cost waived. The following is a combo deal we'll be offering (for the first time) with this Corvette Forum Group Buy: If you order a set of any of our ramps, including our Trailer Ramps, we'll waive the shipping costs on the following products if ordered at the same time. Any size Wheel Cribs, XTenders, Roll-Ups, Trak-Jax and Wheel Chocks. So if you bought a set of Wheel Cribs with a set of XT's it would be about a 19% total discount.
The price you see at checkout in our shopping cart will reflect the 15% discount but not the second item shipping cost waived. Your charge card will be credited the second shipping charge upon shipment of your order.
The success of Race Ramp's Stimulus Plan rests in the belief, that hard work is the answer. All of us at Brute Industries, Inc. look forward to continue working hard for you, producing the finest ramp products made, right here in the USA.
Thank you for your continued support, Bill j
www.raceramps.com
Enter Coupon Code cvf19
Valid through 2-22-2009
The "Best Way to Get it Up" is with a ramp that won't kick out or slide away.
Just wanted you guys to know were having a "Stimulus Plan" sale running through the 22nd.
Race Ramp's Stimulus Plan Details:
Everything we make will be offered at a 15% discount, with the second item shipping cost waived. The following is a combo deal we'll be offering (for the first time) with this Corvette Forum Group Buy: If you order a set of any of our ramps, including our Trailer Ramps, we'll waive the shipping costs on the following products if ordered at the same time. Any size Wheel Cribs, XTenders, Roll-Ups, Trak-Jax and Wheel Chocks. So if you bought a set of Wheel Cribs with a set of XT's it would be about a 19% total discount.
The price you see at checkout in our shopping cart will reflect the 15% discount but not the second item shipping cost waived. Your charge card will be credited the second shipping charge upon shipment of your order.
The success of Race Ramp's Stimulus Plan rests in the belief, that hard work is the answer. All of us at Brute Industries, Inc. look forward to continue working hard for you, producing the finest ramp products made, right here in the USA.
Thank you for your continued support, Bill j
www.raceramps.com
Enter Coupon Code cvf19
Valid through 2-22-2009
02-18-2009, 02:41 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Of course... Just bought some trailer ramps..
I do love em tho!.. Beats the hell out of dealing with 2x12s. I have shot my share of lumber projectiles across the lot...
I do love em tho!.. Beats the hell out of dealing with 2x12s. I have shot my share of lumber projectiles across the lot...
02-18-2009, 03:19 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
what would be nice would be "extension ramps that I can rest my existing ramps on. I have a Bri-Mar 16' trailer with standard ramps (maybe 3 ft?). Since my car is lowered and has Z06 nose, I need to put the 2x6's under the trailer ramps to get my car up on the trailer, then I stop mid way, put on my saftey brake and go out and pull the 2x6's out from under the stock ramps. Since it's only the front that has clearence this works, but it does suck having to get out and remove the 2x6's while my hot car is sitting 1/2 way up the trailer.
What would be nice would be a small inexpensive extension ramp that I can rest my stock ramps on to give it a could more feet, which would solve the problem and then I don't have these massive 5ft long ramps to store in my SUV. Do you have anything like this?
What would be nice would be a small inexpensive extension ramp that I can rest my stock ramps on to give it a could more feet, which would solve the problem and then I don't have these massive 5ft long ramps to store in my SUV. Do you have anything like this?
02-18-2009, 03:26 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: May 2001
Location: Coto de Caza CA
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
10 Posts
what would be nice would be "extension ramps that I can rest my existing ramps on. I have a Bri-Mar 16' trailer with standard ramps (maybe 3 ft?). Since my car is lowered and has Z06 nose, I need to put the 2x6's under the trailer ramps to get my car up on the trailer, then I stop mid way, put on my saftey brake and go out and pull the 2x6's out from under the stock ramps. Since it's only the front that has clearence this works, but it does suck having to get out and remove the 2x6's while my hot car is sitting 1/2 way up the trailer.
What would be nice would be a small inexpensive extension ramp that I can rest my stock ramps on to give it a could more feet, which would solve the problem and then I don't have these massive 5ft long ramps to store in my SUV. Do you have anything like this?
What would be nice would be a small inexpensive extension ramp that I can rest my stock ramps on to give it a could more feet, which would solve the problem and then I don't have these massive 5ft long ramps to store in my SUV. Do you have anything like this?
02-18-2009, 03:29 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: San Mateo CA
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ trailer ramps, they've had them for awhile. they are shown in the picture in post #1. i bought them when they first came out. i have the short version, because they fit in the back of my pickup sideways across the bed. they're too short for my formula car but for the vette they work great.
why do you have to remove the boards 1/2way up the ramp? b/c you're worried about them being shot out? just drill a hole in them and a corresponding whole in the trailer ramps and use a bolt or pin to hold them in place. my featherlite trailer's ramps already have a hole at the end of the ramp.
why do you have to remove the boards 1/2way up the ramp? b/c you're worried about them being shot out? just drill a hole in them and a corresponding whole in the trailer ramps and use a bolt or pin to hold them in place. my featherlite trailer's ramps already have a hole at the end of the ramp.
02-18-2009, 03:52 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
why do you have to remove the boards 1/2way up the ramp? b/c you're worried about them being shot out? just drill a hole in them and a corresponding whole in the trailer ramps and use a bolt or pin to hold them in place. my featherlite trailer's ramps already have a hole at the end of the ramp.
The ramps with the notch would also do the trick, but there seems to be no way to securely mount them to the trailer ramps. Imagine shooting out the extensions and your car droping down 4-5". It would surely tear my nose up.
02-18-2009, 04:01 PM
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 24,652
Received 297 Likes
on
94 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Matt do you stop on the wood when going up the ramps? I never had the wood fly out on my old trailer because once I started up I didn't stop until I was in place. although I just thought about your trailer being 16 ft so that might make a difference (my old trailer was 18)
I am glad my new rollback has eliminated that problem.
I am glad my new rollback has eliminated that problem.
02-18-2009, 04:23 PM
#8
Team Owner
Yes, they shoot out every time. I have lots of torque to the wheels which further exasterbates the situation. I have actually almost hit another car once, so now I stop my car mid ramp and pull them out before I drive the rear tires up the ramp. This works, because the clearence issue is only for the front tires, once your up on the trailer a bit, you don't need them. I have never thought about the bolt or pin approach. This would allow me to not have to get out of the car and jump back in.
The ramps with the notch would also do the trick, but there seems to be no way to securely mount them to the trailer ramps. Imagine shooting out the extensions and your car droping down 4-5". It would surely tear my nose up.
The ramps with the notch would also do the trick, but there seems to be no way to securely mount them to the trailer ramps. Imagine shooting out the extensions and your car droping down 4-5". It would surely tear my nose up.
02-18-2009, 06:43 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Matt do you stop on the wood when going up the ramps? I never had the wood fly out on my old trailer because once I started up I didn't stop until I was in place. although I just thought about your trailer being 16 ft so that might make a difference (my old trailer was 18)
I am glad my new rollback has eliminated that problem.
I am glad my new rollback has eliminated that problem.
I don't stop on the wood on purpose, but it's tricky driving up a steep ramp, trying to check left/right clearence and at the same time clutching and gently appling throttle as you get resistance driving up two 2x6's with blunt faces. If I were smart, I would bolt them together and cut the face so they are easier to drive up...sounds like a spring project.
02-18-2009, 08:58 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Wow, those trailer ramps look like exactly what I need! My car is so low that it has taken hours and a truckload of wood to load.... (just ask Dean, he spent hours on his back under the car moving wood blocks one day..... !) Looks like I will be ordering some of these very soon!
02-19-2009, 03:55 AM
#11
Team Owner
What makes the problem worse, is to make it up on my ramps, I need two 2x6's, not just one...so now you have one piece of wood slipping on top of another. It is fustrating, but I have no place to put 5 foot ramps since it's an open trailer. It's the C6Z chin spoiler that creates the problem. Compared to the C5 it creates a very low point at the front most of the car. Even with two 2X6's, the clearence is only mm's.
I don't stop on the wood on purpose, but it's tricky driving up a steep ramp, trying to check left/right clearence and at the same time clutching and gently appling throttle as you get resistance driving up two 2x6's with blunt faces. If I were smart, I would bolt them together and cut the face so they are easier to drive up...sounds like a spring project.
I don't stop on the wood on purpose, but it's tricky driving up a steep ramp, trying to check left/right clearence and at the same time clutching and gently appling throttle as you get resistance driving up two 2x6's with blunt faces. If I were smart, I would bolt them together and cut the face so they are easier to drive up...sounds like a spring project.
make hangers to go under the trailer for the ramps
02-19-2009, 04:55 PM
#13
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Wow, those trailer ramps look like exactly what I need! My car is so low that it has taken hours and a truckload of wood to load.... (just ask Dean, he spent hours on his back under the car moving wood blocks one day..... !) Looks like I will be ordering some of these very soon!
Just wanted to post all the info we offer on our website here in one place to answer as many questions up front as possible. Everyone of you knows your loading situation best, hope the following pics help.
Things to consider when extending your current door or existing ramps with Race Ramp Trailer Ramps. The TR-5's have the lowest initial approach angle for clearing the front air dam. If your having any rocker panel/exhaust contact due to a low break over angle when crossing over the door hinge onto the floor of the trailer, then consider the TR-6 or the TR-8, as they lift your existing door ramp from ground level up 4 and 5 inches respectively at the same time increasing the approach angle -required- to clear the front air dam.
Door Ramp Lift Height:
TR-4 2.5"
TR-5 3.0"
TR-6 4.0"
TR-8 5.0"
Hope this helps.
Bill j
The TR-4 yardstick measurement required to work is 4.5" or greater.
Enter Coupon Code: cvf19 & Save 15%
02-19-2009, 06:21 PM
#14
These are well worth the money. I've got a set of TR-5. Didn't even bother trying to load a car into my trailer until after I got them. Super light. The best portable trailer ramp system in my opinion
02-19-2009, 07:16 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
02-19-2009, 08:41 PM
#16
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
This appears to be the best answer for the problem of the 5' ramps storage.On Bri-Mars site, the 5' ramps "now slide out"; they don't indicate they mean out of the back of an SUV though. If that's the case...
Your currently stacking 2-2x's 3" high. The most cost effective product we could offer for this would be a modified Trak-Jax. It would be a custom miniature trailer ramp and still cost less then a full size trailer ramp.
Let me know what you need, Bill j
02-21-2009, 07:39 PM
#18
I used my TR-4 today to load my C6Z on my featherlite open trailer for the first time today. They worked like a champ. With the ZR1 front splitter it was close but I didn't hit anything.
The best part is that the TR-4 is short enough that I can just stick them both in the tool box on the front of my trailer so they are always there.
I was going to put a winch on my trailer but the race ramps worked so well at lessening the incline that I think I'll just do without.
Nice product.
The best part is that the TR-4 is short enough that I can just stick them both in the tool box on the front of my trailer so they are always there.
I was going to put a winch on my trailer but the race ramps worked so well at lessening the incline that I think I'll just do without.
Nice product.
02-21-2009, 09:48 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: San Mateo CA
Posts: 2,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-22-2009, 01:06 AM
#20
Drifting
Because when you are pulling the car with a winch, there is no torque on the rear wheels, and thus no shooting out of the wood or other portable ramps.You are right, though, no difference in the neessary angle for clearance.
BTW, I have the race ramps from the OP, and they work great. The bottom of the ramps are a coarse surface, and do not slide out. Even so, I am now winching my car the trailer. Easiest set up, by far. Use the remote control, and just walk the car on the trailer.
