Jacking up a C4
#1
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Thread Starter
Jacking up a C4
I still have figured out how to use the jacking points suggested by GM. If I put the jack where the panels are wleded the just bend over. I assume it's just fiberglass further in.
Anyway, why can't I use the leaf spring to jack up the rear? Right between the two mounting points for the spring on the rear end.
What do you think?
I usually use the areas suggested in another post, but I need to put jack stands there to work under the car, so I need another place to jack up the car.
Anyway, why can't I use the leaf spring to jack up the rear? Right between the two mounting points for the spring on the rear end.
What do you think?
I usually use the areas suggested in another post, but I need to put jack stands there to work under the car, so I need another place to jack up the car.
#3
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Thread Starter
I did a search and found a couple of good examples with pictures.
http://zr1netregistry.com/jackupzr1/sld001.htm
http://www.corvette-guru.com/uploads...ingJacking.pdf
The problem I have is the fiberglass panel extends below the metal edge and it's getting bent. Apparently that's normal.
http://zr1netregistry.com/jackupzr1/sld001.htm
http://www.corvette-guru.com/uploads...ingJacking.pdf
The problem I have is the fiberglass panel extends below the metal edge and it's getting bent. Apparently that's normal.
#4
Le Mans Master
I'll jack on the frame rails including using a piece of wood to get both sides of the rear where the zr1 guy puts his safety jacks.
I know a guy who used to run with the SSSCC, Bob, used to raise his 90 convertible (though it had the stock x-brace) but with a floor jack on the fiberglass/frame in the center of the door and just change both side wheels at the same time. He did it all the time and never had any issues.
I think a lot of this jacking stuff (top on for the windshield, off to protect the top, open the hood to relieve stress, close it for rigidity, open the hatch so it doesn't flex and break.... on and on) is just internet rumors. You can probably jack any where that is solid and be fine.
I know a guy who used to run with the SSSCC, Bob, used to raise his 90 convertible (though it had the stock x-brace) but with a floor jack on the fiberglass/frame in the center of the door and just change both side wheels at the same time. He did it all the time and never had any issues.
I think a lot of this jacking stuff (top on for the windshield, off to protect the top, open the hood to relieve stress, close it for rigidity, open the hatch so it doesn't flex and break.... on and on) is just internet rumors. You can probably jack any where that is solid and be fine.
#5
Team Owner
I'll jack on the frame rails including using a piece of wood to get both sides of the rear where the zr1 guy puts his safety jacks.
I know a guy who used to run with the SSSCC, Bob, used to raise his 90 convertible (though it had the stock x-brace) but with a floor jack on the fiberglass/frame in the center of the door and just change both side wheels at the same time. He did it all the time and never had any issues.
I think a lot of this jacking stuff (top on for the windshield, off to protect the top, open the hood to relieve stress, close it for rigidity, open the hatch so it doesn't flex and break.... on and on) is just internet rumors. You can probably jack any where that is solid and be fine.
I know a guy who used to run with the SSSCC, Bob, used to raise his 90 convertible (though it had the stock x-brace) but with a floor jack on the fiberglass/frame in the center of the door and just change both side wheels at the same time. He did it all the time and never had any issues.
I think a lot of this jacking stuff (top on for the windshield, off to protect the top, open the hood to relieve stress, close it for rigidity, open the hatch so it doesn't flex and break.... on and on) is just internet rumors. You can probably jack any where that is solid and be fine.
On the driver's side, it holds a clip for the brake lines. On the passenger side, the stud holds the fuel lines. A flat jack pad will most likely not hurt either one, but I marked a red vertical line on the black part of the lower facia to indicate where the studs are and simply place the jack pad to the back side of the mark.
Using those lift points, I can get my car off the ground and on jack stands in about 5 minutes. I don't release the hood, open the doors or lowere the windows either. The car raises easily from the middle with no indication of any body twist or flex.
#6
Melting Slicks
I raise my C4 near the center of the doors too. What you do have to be careful with is a small threaded stud behind the welded seams about midway between the factory jacking points.
Using those lift points, I can get my car off the ground and on jack stands in about 5 minutes. I don't release the hood, open the doors or lowere the windows either. The car raises easily from the middle with no indication of any body twist or flex.
Using those lift points, I can get my car off the ground and on jack stands in about 5 minutes. I don't release the hood, open the doors or lowere the windows either. The car raises easily from the middle with no indication of any body twist or flex.
I used to jack at the factory points, open the hatch, etc, but once in a while I would get in a hurry and not bother and didn't notice any difference. Then I was at a race and saw another C4 jack in the middle of the door. That is so much quicker and easier than jacking the front end and trying to get the jackstand in place then going to the rear to get it up, then repeat on the other side.
#8
Heel & Toe
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Jacking Vette
Anyone have pics of the proper placement of the mid door jacking or the "rear view mirror" jacking? This is new to me, and I don't want to do something stupid. LOL...all I want to do is change the oil for now...
#9
Race Director
#10
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I'd like to try to avoid any damage. The thread/links above show where stands should be placed, and he's placed hockey pucks in his jack. That is a GREAT idea. I'll head down to play it again and see if they have any. My big question is how to get the jack into position. He shows the seems, but I'm thinking I might need a smaller sized jack. The one I have is pretty large. It's the one with the 4-5' handle attached. I want to say it's a 5 ton.
#13
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Like others have said, put the jack on the rib that sticks down under the rocker panel. I go under the mirror on the doors and both front and rear come off the ground at the same time. No open hood or latch nonsense, you wont hurt anything keeping it all closed.
#14
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I just looked under there. There's no damage to the rocker at all. I didn't jack it yet. Seems like the "jacking location" is a little far rear. You say you go under the mirror and jack "right on" the plastic piece lip that hangs down? Looks like someone got a little far in once, there's a slight indentation behind the "jacking location". Not bad, but you can tell. I'll definately drive it up on 2x4's for this. I'm just concerned and a worry wort. Geez, i wish I knew someone local that owned a vette...lol.
Hey, check this out, Pictures ..."for people like me"...lol...
How to Jack a C4
Hey, check this out, Pictures ..."for people like me"...lol...
How to Jack a C4
Last edited by Threepointlanding; 02-23-2010 at 12:14 PM.
#15
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I just looked under there. There's no damage to the rocker at all. I didn't jack it yet. Seems like the "jacking location" is a little far rear. You say you go under the mirror and jack "right on" the plastic piece lip that hangs down? Looks like someone got a little far in once, there's a slight indentation behind the "jacking location". Not bad, but you can tell. I'll definately drive it up on 2x4's for this. I'm just concerned and a worry wort. Geez, i wish I knew someone local that owned a vette...lol.
Hey, check this out, Pictures ..."for people like me"...lol...
How to Jack a C4
Hey, check this out, Pictures ..."for people like me"...lol...
How to Jack a C4
I would NOT rest the on wooden blocks like in that link. That is very very dangerous! Jackstands are the only thing that should be used when working under a car.
#17
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crazy
I've seen it, but I just can not believe that jacking that "thin flange" that sticks down is safe...argh...
Yeah, not into using wood to hold up a car. I've played with blocks before, and they never stay up...lol.
Once I get the car in the air, I can place stands in the proper location.
I was thinking of building 2x4 ramps 2 high, and then jacking from there.
On the tiiiiiiny thiiiiin lip that stick down from the rocker (imprinted with jack here) only under the mirror.
Thank you so much for the reassurance. This is probably the nicest car I've ever owned, and I want to make sure I do things correctly.
Threepoint
Yeah, not into using wood to hold up a car. I've played with blocks before, and they never stay up...lol.
Once I get the car in the air, I can place stands in the proper location.
I was thinking of building 2x4 ramps 2 high, and then jacking from there.
On the tiiiiiiny thiiiiin lip that stick down from the rocker (imprinted with jack here) only under the mirror.
Thank you so much for the reassurance. This is probably the nicest car I've ever owned, and I want to make sure I do things correctly.
Threepoint
#18
Burning Brakes
You must have that rare heavy duty racing mirror
Hey Brian, want some flares?
BTW, I jack slightly rear of the mirror, more like at the steering wheel to get front and rear up even, but yes, on that "thin little flange".
Been doing it for years with no problems.
Hey Brian, want some flares?
BTW, I jack slightly rear of the mirror, more like at the steering wheel to get front and rear up even, but yes, on that "thin little flange".
Been doing it for years with no problems.
#19
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Was at the dealer today. Put it on the lift and started asking questions. There are parts of the rocker vertical flange that have 4 pieces of medal there. The seems if you will. This is the strongest part. You can actually see these sections. They flare away from each other 1/4-1/2 inch. This is where you should jack from what I understand. Also, many of the other threads are correct for jackstand placement. There's a flat piece of medal by the S curve of the flange "if that makes sense", i'll put them there. There was also a couple of places inner lower control arms that was supposed to be ok. I question that though.
#20
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I'll take pics and post them, clear up any fog. Very cool to learn about this car. The more I learn about it, the more comfortable I become and really enjoy the car.