ddahlgren

In a C4 what is the best compromise suspension for a tiny bit of comfort and good handling.. Sort of what are the must do things and the ones you canlive without. I am more concerned with keeping the geometery right than the last 1/10 second on a track car. My goals would to be fix bump steer and camber changes along with a compliant non squeeking suspension. I have 3 months to get it done before the snow leaves CT.. Plans so far.. Coil over shocks maybe.. new shocks definately toe links and camber rods trailing links all heim joints in the rear along with sway bar links both ends how bad are the front bushings stock poly or heim joints??
How much does a camber bar in front and a chassis rear stiffening setup as sold by DRM actually hep things?
Dave

BrianCunningham

Where do you run it?
Autox? Time trials? HPDE?
Are you concerned about class? SCCA? NCCC?

jwt1603

Gotta watch what you do if you run with an organized / sanctioned group. The littlest thing can bump you way up in class.

rfn026

Send your shocks to Bilstein and get them redone. That's far better than buying shocks off the shelf. The biggest advantage of coil overs is that it's easier to weight balance the car.

It's difficult to know what you mean by improved handling. The term is too vague. Take a look at this definition.

Richard Newton
Daily Race Car Blog

ddahlgren

I followed your link and read it though quite familiar with the information there. I am not planing on racing the car in the near future. I am looking for precise balanced and no surprises. This is not a car I would drive in the snow or rain intentionally but those things happen. I don't want a go cart that only drives well on a sunny day over 70 degrees. I think I have a reasonably good plan in fixing the bump steer and camber issues at both ends of the car. I have heard as well there are some anti squat issues in the rear to be dealt with as well. The '91 I just bought while a low miles car at 67k it is still going on 18 years old and parts that might not be worn out with miles have certainly timed out with age. i do not want to restore it to stock and then be disappointed so seeking some input to avoid doing the job twice. As far as suspension pickup points i know i do not want rubber and sure I do not want poly I am not going to be willing to hear the noise from them. For me that leaves delrin or mono *****. The delrin and poly do not allow for any slight misalighnment that the rubber does allow for but at a cost so it can end up binding or making noise from what I have seen. I have heard good and bad things about the mono ***** ranging from harsh ride noise to seizing up. I have found some seals for them made by 'sealsit.com' and they seem as though quite up to the job. So I am looking for input on those and cost is not a problem they are simple to fabricate for me as I have a complete machine shop and quite well versed in running all the machines. If anyone has some prints of all the chassis pickup points and uprights that would be a plus as well so it could be run through Mitchell's or similar software.
Dave

jabrun

I used to have a '95 Z07 suspension coupe and later had a '91 ZR-1 with Z07 springs, sways and aftermarket poly bushings. The factory FX3 Bilsteins were also revalved to the Morocca configuration on the ZR-1. I thought both cars handled very well and the ride wasn't bad either. I autocrossed both cars for several years. As others have mentioned you have to check on what class the mods kick you into.

ddahlgren

I actually do not care how the car would be classed is the point any track stuff would be for the enjoyment of legally stretching it's legs as opposed to winning anything. I would be more interested in a driver training day at a track than a race per se.. This would be a 99% street car with very good handling when called on.. Good being precise predictable and repeatable in varying surface conditions. The questions as much of a what has anyone changed and what were the results compared to stock..
Dave

ddahlgren

I did a bunch or searching on the net and did find some things i thought interesting if true. It seems that as you go up the scale in suspension options they not only change springs and shocks but also add more structure to make the platform more rigid. It is kind of funny that my first impression drive my 91 was that the front and rear were not really connected some how out of sync with each other. It might be the bushings and shocks but seriouly wondering if stiffening the platform the first smart move. Any thoughts??
Dave