kmagvette

I have a 02 Z, all stock power train, with about 25K miles on it, some might be track miles I want to replace the stock timing chain for peace of mind; I have heard a lot of stories with sad endings.

I was wondering how much of a PITA this job would be. I am replacing the transverse springs this winter as well, so some of the stuff under the engine will be off anyway.

Can this job be reasonable done with the engine in the car? Anyone know of a good reference or set of instructions for the job? I am not too proud to learn from the experience of others.

Based on my reading thus far, it looks like the Katec chain and damper is the way to go. I am happy to hear alternatives as well as other things I should do while I am in there. I am happy with the stock performance and am primarily concerned with reliability.

rasrboy

Hopefully Danny Popp will chime in on this. He is the master at this stuff. Pending where you live, Danny is in Cincinatti,Ohio and you could go there and let the pro do it all including springs,set up and alignments.

Good luck,

Aaron Quine

davidfarmer

getting the steering rack out of the way, and then getting the damper off is the hard part. Actually replacing a chain is easy. The JWIS chain is a great, bolt-on chain (doesn't require different sprockets).

dvandentop

biggest PITA is having to get the steering rack lowered and the crank pulley off, after that it is cake work

Webz

Danny's replacing my timing chain this off season along with valve springs, underdrive pulley, adjust allignment, etc.............

Oyishdog

As stated above, the chain is cake...crank pulley is a royal PITA.

kmagvette

Thanks for the replies; sounds encouraging. I am about 10 hours from Cincinatti.

I figured I will need GM special part number #%$#$$ to hold the flywheel while wrenching on the damper, and a new stretch bolt. Valve springs are tempting since my GMPP warranty expires in March and I'm not sure a renewal will work out well given the financial implosion at GM.

Do you typically yank the radiator or is there plenty of room after taking everything off the front of the motor?

Do I need to drop the Oil Pan to properly seat the Timing Chain Cover and gasket?

While not necessary, are there better sprockets available that make the chain work better? Figure while I'm in there I might as well do stuff that makes sense, but I don't feel the need to replace stuff just for fun.

Z06_BluByU

sounds like VERY low mileage to worry about a timing chain..

.. it wouldn't hurt.. but I'm not sure its necessary.. I wouldn't think these are like belts that need service every 30k

davidfarmer

all you need to do is leave the car in gear, and have a friend stomp on the brakes to hold the engine still................

You don't need to pull the pan to change the chain usually. I agree your mileage seems low for a new belt, but it's never too early if you upgrade to a better belt!

Radiator should not be in the way unless you are doing a cam swap.

waddisme

If you are going to do all that, you might as well do the underdrive pulley since you are taking it off. When I rebuilt mine, I put the IWIS LS2 chain instead of the stock chain. It is supposed to be pre-stretched. Just for peace of mind. If you think you will ever upgrade cam, now is a good time to try one of the 2 piece timing covers. It keeps you from having to pull crank pulley off for cam swap.

ptindall

That's what I did when installing the crank pulley bolt. But before I could get to 130 degrees of angle, the engine was turning anyway. The wheels were not turning and the clutch was not slipping. Something (driveshaft?) was acting like a big spring. Engine would turn and spring back. scary.

kmagvette

Well I guess I better get to this job real soon. I still have a few questions though.

1. Who is a good source for the Jwis/Iwis timing chain?
2. Any recommendations on two piece timing chain covers...and a source?
3. Do you just use a three jaw puller on the balancer?
4. I will be doing this without the aid of a lift. How high off the ground does the car need to be so I can get the leverage required to tighten that crank bolt?
5. If I go to an underdrive pully, how do you know that it is balanced like the original?

davidfarmer

1 http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...d=349&pcid=222
2 Unless you think you are going to do it again soon, I wouldn't bother
3. Can't remember, but I think I bought a GM puller
4. Height isn't important....just slip a jack handle over your pull handle with it straight up inthe air
5. I've only used ATI.....they were developed with GM Racing's input, so I trust them. I've use a ton of them. I recommend pinning your crank if you go aluminum.