Nimo

Both front calipers have the same wear on all four outer pins. (could have been the inside pins - but I'm pretty sure it is the outer. And - Yes I need new seals)
- The only thing I can think that can flex is the bearing - and mine have no flex at 6-9 or 9-12 o'clock.

Anyone else seen this?

Not quite sure when it happened, but it could be when I needed to have my stock rotors turned or just after.

Thanks,
Nik

davidfarmer

I know Racing Brakes rotors are slightly off-center, and can rub. Usually not enough to hurt anything. Also, if you are running spindle ducts that bolt behind the hub, that changes the offset between the caliper and the rotor.

I haven't actually checked the clearance of the OEM parts to see if the caliper actually sits perfectly centered either.

btw, those dust seals look fine to me......New ones will look just like that after 2 sessions!

Nimo

Thanks! - Yes, I have spindle ducts. Didn't think of them changing the offset. Will measure the next time I have the wheels off.

/Nik

0corvette pilot

good luck if you are getting new dust seals, GM only sells them with new pistons at about somewhere between 60 and 80 per caliper from Gene Culley, if I remember correctly. I know they were quite pricey.

Nimo

Indeed - Will not make a habit out swapping these - expensive:
Found the part numbers to be:
19121808 front overhaul kit for C6Z
19121810 rear overhaul kit for C6Z

gmpartshouse: $74.43/$60.13 - $26 shipping for full kit ($295.22)
gmpartsdirect : $59.54/$48.10 - $43 shipping for full kit ($258.34)
freadbeans: $68.70/$55.50 - $12 shipping for full kit ($260.35)


Nik

davidfarmer

I learned with my Stoptech kits racing about the spindle duct issue....I replaced the OEM thin-steel ABS sensor bracket with slightly thicker aluminum spindle ducts, and it made just enough difference that I had to put very thin washers between the caliper brackets and the upright.

Since it likely isn't hurting performance, you can just grind a bit off of the Pins if you can get them out.

96CollectorSport

Wilwood has shims that are .050 that would work out well for this. PN 240-8127 I always check the distance when installing a new kit to make sure it's square.

Nimo

Thanks - I found the shim listed in on of their docs:
www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds502.pdf

Don't think I need to grind them more

- I use LGs spindle ducts and I thought their thickness was close to the ABS sensor's, but apparently not.

Will look in to getting a few thin shims and new pins if it gets worse. Don't want the spring-thing to start moving too much.

Thanks for the help!


/Nik

manicheus

I had this issue on the left front but not the right front with DBA slotted rotors. When I switched back to OEM the problem disappeared. I concluded it was a very slight warp that was causing the rotor to contact the pins. It was a bit noisy at first but performance was not affected. FWIW I have spindle ducts but do not believe they had anything to do with the pins rubbing.

Z11409

Have had the same problem on the rears only after changing rotors.Both oem and DBA rubbed the pins.Seems both rotor types where not machined to same spec.'s as the orginal set.You can use the spacer or dress down the end of the pins.Checked many replacement pins and all where the same length,the depth of the threaded pin holes where all the same.I now paint the end of the pins yellow so if they rub it shows up on rotor.