FasterIsBetter

I just received a set of Pfadt wheel bearings to install on the front of my '04 Z06. I checked the shop manual and it looks like a pretty straightforward installation. Just a couple of quick questions --

1. It looks like I need to separate the ball joints for the job. While I'm at it, does it make sense to put in new ball joints? If so, which ones should I use (any recommendation on sourcing)?

2. Any suggestions on the install otherwise? Anything I need to look out for?

Thanks,
Steve

froggy47

lbarnard

Why are you changing out your wheel bearings? What problems were you having?

I believe if you are into a tear down and have the opportunity to replace something that you have out the labor cost is to put a new part back is zero. I thought Pfadt had a replacement:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...trol-arms.html

ptindall

You do have to pop the lower ball joint out of the spindle but it's no big deal. Use the hex to do it, not a pickel fork. Popping it out and re-installing is no big deal. No specific reason to also change the ball joint.

CHJ In Virginia

Check the ball joint for play and excess movement. It should move freely without any vertical or sideways slop. The chances of it needing replacement are very slim. If I remember correctly, the entire A arm must be replaced to replace the ball joint. While you have it torn apart - check the slop in the tie rod end too. Check your rubber dust boots and replace as necessary. The tie rod boot is probably cooked from brake heat.

Independent1

^^FYI - you don't have to replace the A-arm when replacing the ball joints. I believe Pfadt has HD ball joint replacements too. Since you track the car might make sense to take car of it all at once rather than do it in a series.

FasterIsBetter

Found this great write-up, with pictures, on wheel bearing replacement. It eliminates removing the sway bar end link and upper ball joint, as the shop manual wants done. I'm going to give this a try. Looks straightforward enough and makes a lot of sense not to fully disassemble the unit if not necessary.

http://www.jakelatham.com/c5/misc/C5...el_Bearing.doc

Will report back on how this works. And ptindall suggested using the hex on the ball joint spindle to pop it loose, rather than tapping (he says it will work on the tie rod end too). Plan on trying that as well.

Thanks everyone for the input. Will let you know how it goes.



p.s. The Pfadt bearing units look exceptionally well built. They are a lot more expensive than the Timken bearings, but they look much beefier, and look like they will last forever. Definitely a high quality piece.

meldog21

That is a great write up with pictures. Although you can take everything apart, that write shows the easiest way to do it without complete disassembly.

Dog

FasterIsBetter

Okay gang, updated installation report --

I installed the bearing on the passenger side front last night. I followed the suggested method from that link I posted, and it worked great. There really is no need to completely disassemble the suspension as the workshop manual suggests. Undoing the tie rod end and the lower ball joint give all the access you need. Only had time to do the one side last night, but will do the driver's side and get the car out on the road this Saturday, if I'm lucky.

One question about Locktite: The Helms manual says not to use Locktite on the three wheel bearing bolts. Yet, when I extracted the bolts, the two top ones appeared to have been red Locktited at the factory, which the bottom one was not. I put them back without Locktite and torqued them to spec.

Any thoughts on the need to use Locktite?


Steve

froggy47

I would use some, medium, why not?