Cleaning Track Crud from Clear Paint Protection Film
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cleaning Track Crud from Clear Paint Protection Film
I saw on a thread under C6 General that some people with clear paint protection film on their cars have had trouble with removing the crud (grease and rubber marks) you get on your car after a HPDE track day. I've put the InvisiShield clear film on my new car. I used to use a Bug & Tar remover product on my previous car that didn't have the clear film, but it sounds like that may no longer be a good idea. What are the recommendations on how best to clean the car after a track day that doesn't harm the clear film? Thanks!
- Mark
- Mark
#2
Race Director
I used Invincishield on a car once, and I remember having trouble getting rubber off. I usually use brake-clean, ether, gasoline, brake fluid..........whatever it took.
For me, the idea is to protect the paint, NOT the plastic. I little discoleration etc over time didn't bother me (although it didn't happen in my case)
For me, the idea is to protect the paint, NOT the plastic. I little discoleration etc over time didn't bother me (although it didn't happen in my case)
#7
I use Plexus. You usually need to spray enough on a cloth to make it damp and then use the damp part to rub the goo off. It works for me.
I've thought of trying Kero as that seems to work great for cleaning chain goop off of motorcycle wheels but haven't tried it yet.
I've thought of trying Kero as that seems to work great for cleaning chain goop off of motorcycle wheels but haven't tried it yet.
#9
Team Owner
A heavy coat of Pam or even wiping on some vegetable oil will help just before moving onto the track.
A thick coat of a cheap liquid wax will work too. Apply it and wipe off. Even with the plastic shield, I would still use some painters tape on the lower edges of the wheel wells and the edge of the air dam. It's cheap, easy to apply and remove and any glue residue can be quickly cleaned off with mineral spirits or even WD-40.
A thick coat of a cheap liquid wax will work too. Apply it and wipe off. Even with the plastic shield, I would still use some painters tape on the lower edges of the wheel wells and the edge of the air dam. It's cheap, easy to apply and remove and any glue residue can be quickly cleaned off with mineral spirits or even WD-40.
#10
Mark,
I rarely post but do so when I can help someone. I have two track cars that have significant vinyl graphics and vinyl clear bra over those graphics in impact areas. One car is an 05 Porsche GT3RS and the other is the 08 LG Motorsport Corvette Z06 discussed in this forum.
Having cars that appear to be garage queens but are driven at the edge on the track takes considerable work.
First keep in mind that you are working with vinyl, many suggestions that you have or will recieve work on paint with very little possibility of damage but....the vinyl is different.
Several posts prior to mine suggested that you use Plexus. (www.PlexusPlasticCleaner.com) This is an outstanding product and can be found at most auto parts outlets. This is used exclusively by the USAF as the product to clean the windshields of the B1 and B2 Bombers. These windsheilds are made of a similar substance as your vinyl Invisisheild. It will remove the rubber marks and if you use it after you wash the car it also leaves a strong polish behind so you get a twofer. (This is the product that is recommended by my graphics guy who does a number of ALMS Teams.
Another product that I have dicovered that works very well is Zaino All in One Cleaner Polish Protectant. (www.zainostore.com) This is a mild polish and sealer so that when you finish you have a clean smooth and shinny surface that is very hard and will last. This is my personal preference.
Some of the other recommendations that you recieved are to be done prior to washing the car as they will leave a residue behind, they will remove any and all polishes you had on the car or may distort the vinyl film you have installed. Be very careful with Isopropyl Alcohol as to how strong of a solution you use or it will melt the vinyl. (don't ask me how I know$$$)
If you want to use a product prior to detailing your car I recommend SD-20. (www.spartanchemical.com) This product works well but will remove any polishes, sealants or waxes you have on your car.
Now, what I have suggested normally consumes 20 minutes of my time after I have washed the car prior to detailing. This is after a three day event running in the top run group loaded with racing slicks. (My cars are marked up.) All tire marks are gone and I have a polish and or sealant that protects the vinyl for the next outing.
When using Plexus or SD-20, a cloth is the best use of the product but when using Zaino All in One a small buffer is the bomb.
Finally, I suggest that you use Rejex (corrosionx.com) protective polymer as a final finish.
This product is "very hard" and resilient (makes rubber/crud removal after the next event easier) it is slippery and shinny. Not as shinny or deep as multiple coats of Zaino but we are going to the track and not to a car show.(It would take a car show judge to tell the difference). Remember no residue-none!!!!!
With the exception of SD-20 none of the products mentioned above leave any residue and wipe completely clean with any type of polishing cloth you choose to use. All are wipe on wipe off and are fast!!!!!! Many race teams use these very items and all are affordable.
Good luck with your future track days and have fun turning your track beast into a Garage Queen after each event.
JMAC Racing
I rarely post but do so when I can help someone. I have two track cars that have significant vinyl graphics and vinyl clear bra over those graphics in impact areas. One car is an 05 Porsche GT3RS and the other is the 08 LG Motorsport Corvette Z06 discussed in this forum.
Having cars that appear to be garage queens but are driven at the edge on the track takes considerable work.
First keep in mind that you are working with vinyl, many suggestions that you have or will recieve work on paint with very little possibility of damage but....the vinyl is different.
Several posts prior to mine suggested that you use Plexus. (www.PlexusPlasticCleaner.com) This is an outstanding product and can be found at most auto parts outlets. This is used exclusively by the USAF as the product to clean the windshields of the B1 and B2 Bombers. These windsheilds are made of a similar substance as your vinyl Invisisheild. It will remove the rubber marks and if you use it after you wash the car it also leaves a strong polish behind so you get a twofer. (This is the product that is recommended by my graphics guy who does a number of ALMS Teams.
Another product that I have dicovered that works very well is Zaino All in One Cleaner Polish Protectant. (www.zainostore.com) This is a mild polish and sealer so that when you finish you have a clean smooth and shinny surface that is very hard and will last. This is my personal preference.
Some of the other recommendations that you recieved are to be done prior to washing the car as they will leave a residue behind, they will remove any and all polishes you had on the car or may distort the vinyl film you have installed. Be very careful with Isopropyl Alcohol as to how strong of a solution you use or it will melt the vinyl. (don't ask me how I know$$$)
If you want to use a product prior to detailing your car I recommend SD-20. (www.spartanchemical.com) This product works well but will remove any polishes, sealants or waxes you have on your car.
Now, what I have suggested normally consumes 20 minutes of my time after I have washed the car prior to detailing. This is after a three day event running in the top run group loaded with racing slicks. (My cars are marked up.) All tire marks are gone and I have a polish and or sealant that protects the vinyl for the next outing.
When using Plexus or SD-20, a cloth is the best use of the product but when using Zaino All in One a small buffer is the bomb.
Finally, I suggest that you use Rejex (corrosionx.com) protective polymer as a final finish.
This product is "very hard" and resilient (makes rubber/crud removal after the next event easier) it is slippery and shinny. Not as shinny or deep as multiple coats of Zaino but we are going to the track and not to a car show.(It would take a car show judge to tell the difference). Remember no residue-none!!!!!
With the exception of SD-20 none of the products mentioned above leave any residue and wipe completely clean with any type of polishing cloth you choose to use. All are wipe on wipe off and are fast!!!!!! Many race teams use these very items and all are affordable.
Good luck with your future track days and have fun turning your track beast into a Garage Queen after each event.
JMAC Racing
#11
Instructor
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Union KY
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I've cleaned my Z06 with Invizashield on it with Mequiar's Paint cleaner, followed by Plexus to seal and polish it. the Paint Cleaner takes it off very quickly without damaging the vinyl, and the Plexus removes and residue and reseals the vinyl. Rejex sounds good too, but I've never tried it. Is that available in stores or is it mailorder like Zaino?
#12
Team Owner
Mark,
I rarely post but do so when I can help someone. I have two track cars that have significant vinyl graphics and vinyl clear bra over those graphics in impact areas. One car is an 05 Porsche GT3RS and the other is the 08 LG Motorsport Corvette Z06 discussed in this forum.
Having cars that appear to be garage queens but are driven at the edge on the track takes considerable work.
First keep in mind that you are working with vinyl, many suggestions that you have or will recieve work on paint with very little possibility of damage but....the vinyl is different.
Several posts prior to mine suggested that you use Plexus. (www.PlexusPlasticCleaner.com) This is an outstanding product and can be found at most auto parts outlets. This is used exclusively by the USAF as the product to clean the windshields of the B1 and B2 Bombers. These windsheilds are made of a similar substance as your vinyl Invisisheild. It will remove the rubber marks and if you use it after you wash the car it also leaves a strong polish behind so you get a twofer. (This is the product that is recommended by my graphics guy who does a number of ALMS Teams.
Another product that I have dicovered that works very well is Zaino All in One Cleaner Polish Protectant. (www.zainostore.com) This is a mild polish and sealer so that when you finish you have a clean smooth and shinny surface that is very hard and will last. This is my personal preference.
Some of the other recommendations that you recieved are to be done prior to washing the car as they will leave a residue behind, they will remove any and all polishes you had on the car or may distort the vinyl film you have installed. Be very careful with Isopropyl Alcohol as to how strong of a solution you use or it will melt the vinyl. (don't ask me how I know$$$)
If you want to use a product prior to detailing your car I recommend SD-20. (www.spartanchemical.com) This product works well but will remove any polishes, sealants or waxes you have on your car.
Now, what I have suggested normally consumes 20 minutes of my time after I have washed the car prior to detailing. This is after a three day event running in the top run group loaded with racing slicks. (My cars are marked up.) All tire marks are gone and I have a polish and or sealant that protects the vinyl for the next outing.
When using Plexus or SD-20, a cloth is the best use of the product but when using Zaino All in One a small buffer is the bomb.
Finally, I suggest that you use Rejex (corrosionx.com) protective polymer as a final finish.
This product is "very hard" and resilient (makes rubber/crud removal after the next event easier) it is slippery and shinny. Not as shinny or deep as multiple coats of Zaino but we are going to the track and not to a car show.(It would take a car show judge to tell the difference). Remember no residue-none!!!!!
With the exception of SD-20 none of the products mentioned above leave any residue and wipe completely clean with any type of polishing cloth you choose to use. All are wipe on wipe off and are fast!!!!!! Many race teams use these very items and all are affordable.
Good luck with your future track days and have fun turning your track beast into a Garage Queen after each event.
JMAC Racing
I rarely post but do so when I can help someone. I have two track cars that have significant vinyl graphics and vinyl clear bra over those graphics in impact areas. One car is an 05 Porsche GT3RS and the other is the 08 LG Motorsport Corvette Z06 discussed in this forum.
Having cars that appear to be garage queens but are driven at the edge on the track takes considerable work.
First keep in mind that you are working with vinyl, many suggestions that you have or will recieve work on paint with very little possibility of damage but....the vinyl is different.
Several posts prior to mine suggested that you use Plexus. (www.PlexusPlasticCleaner.com) This is an outstanding product and can be found at most auto parts outlets. This is used exclusively by the USAF as the product to clean the windshields of the B1 and B2 Bombers. These windsheilds are made of a similar substance as your vinyl Invisisheild. It will remove the rubber marks and if you use it after you wash the car it also leaves a strong polish behind so you get a twofer. (This is the product that is recommended by my graphics guy who does a number of ALMS Teams.
Another product that I have dicovered that works very well is Zaino All in One Cleaner Polish Protectant. (www.zainostore.com) This is a mild polish and sealer so that when you finish you have a clean smooth and shinny surface that is very hard and will last. This is my personal preference.
Some of the other recommendations that you recieved are to be done prior to washing the car as they will leave a residue behind, they will remove any and all polishes you had on the car or may distort the vinyl film you have installed. Be very careful with Isopropyl Alcohol as to how strong of a solution you use or it will melt the vinyl. (don't ask me how I know$$$)
If you want to use a product prior to detailing your car I recommend SD-20. (www.spartanchemical.com) This product works well but will remove any polishes, sealants or waxes you have on your car.
Now, what I have suggested normally consumes 20 minutes of my time after I have washed the car prior to detailing. This is after a three day event running in the top run group loaded with racing slicks. (My cars are marked up.) All tire marks are gone and I have a polish and or sealant that protects the vinyl for the next outing.
When using Plexus or SD-20, a cloth is the best use of the product but when using Zaino All in One a small buffer is the bomb.
Finally, I suggest that you use Rejex (corrosionx.com) protective polymer as a final finish.
This product is "very hard" and resilient (makes rubber/crud removal after the next event easier) it is slippery and shinny. Not as shinny or deep as multiple coats of Zaino but we are going to the track and not to a car show.(It would take a car show judge to tell the difference). Remember no residue-none!!!!!
With the exception of SD-20 none of the products mentioned above leave any residue and wipe completely clean with any type of polishing cloth you choose to use. All are wipe on wipe off and are fast!!!!!! Many race teams use these very items and all are affordable.
Good luck with your future track days and have fun turning your track beast into a Garage Queen after each event.
JMAC Racing
Its hard even to get the blue painters tape to stick.
If you have a good coat on any detail spray will take off the turd marks.
DH
#13
Burning Brakes
I saw on a thread under C6 General that some people with clear paint protection film on their cars have had trouble with removing the crud (grease and rubber marks) you get on your car after a HPDE track day. I've put the InvisiShield clear film on my new car. I used to use a Bug & Tar remover product on my previous car that didn't have the clear film, but it sounds like that may no longer be a good idea. What are the recommendations on how best to clean the car after a track day that doesn't harm the clear film? Thanks!
- Mark
- Mark
One more thing, once it is cleaned use a good sealant such as Zaino on the film. It will help protect it the next time you go to the track.
#17
Le Mans Master
Clear shelf paper from walmart is stronger and more protective than anything mentioned above and simply pulls off at the end of the day with little to no residue than many of the options mentioned above.
I have rocks, stones and all kinds of crap that does not penetrate this film. My front bumper and hood looks better today after 2 full seasons of HPDE, than those who have the same miles on their car with just highway only. It works so well, I get more damage on my paint from the street.
You just don't get to have a pretty car at the track as you have this big plastic condom on the front of your car, which looks kind of funny even at a track event, but you do have the prettiest car going home.
I would put my 06Z with 2 seasons against any garage car with the same mileage using shelf paper. The only thing I can not get showroom clean are the brake calipers from the heat and the dust.
I have rocks, stones and all kinds of crap that does not penetrate this film. My front bumper and hood looks better today after 2 full seasons of HPDE, than those who have the same miles on their car with just highway only. It works so well, I get more damage on my paint from the street.
You just don't get to have a pretty car at the track as you have this big plastic condom on the front of your car, which looks kind of funny even at a track event, but you do have the prettiest car going home.
I would put my 06Z with 2 seasons against any garage car with the same mileage using shelf paper. The only thing I can not get showroom clean are the brake calipers from the heat and the dust.
#18
Team Owner
Clear shelf paper from walmart is stronger and more protective than anything mentioned above and simply pulls off at the end of the day with little to no residue than many of the options mentioned above.
I have rocks, stones and all kinds of crap that does not penetrate this film. My front bumper and hood looks better today after 2 full seasons of HPDE, than those who have the same miles on their car with just highway only. It works so well, I get more damage on my paint from the street.
You just don't get to have a pretty car at the track as you have this big plastic condom on the front of your car, which looks kind of funny even at a track event, but you do have the prettiest car going home.
I would put my 06Z with 2 seasons against any garage car with the same mileage using shelf paper. The only thing I can not get showroom clean are the brake calipers from the heat and the dust.
I have rocks, stones and all kinds of crap that does not penetrate this film. My front bumper and hood looks better today after 2 full seasons of HPDE, than those who have the same miles on their car with just highway only. It works so well, I get more damage on my paint from the street.
You just don't get to have a pretty car at the track as you have this big plastic condom on the front of your car, which looks kind of funny even at a track event, but you do have the prettiest car going home.
I would put my 06Z with 2 seasons against any garage car with the same mileage using shelf paper. The only thing I can not get showroom clean are the brake calipers from the heat and the dust.
I am puttin blue tape over my clear bra to preserve it the best as possible ......
DH
#19
Le Mans Master
This caused an image to pass thru my mind of someone spraying Pam on blue tape over clear shelf paper covering helicopter tape on a clear bra sealed with Zaino and applied to a car painted with ArmorCoat. Of course, after all this precaution it's certain to get nailed by a fist-sized chunk of debris from a turn one incident on the opening lap to which the driver is an innocent bystander...
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; 12-02-2008 at 08:42 PM.