Blew Torque Tube Bushings
#1
Burning Brakes
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Blew Torque Tube Bushings
I did another Driving Event at Texas World this past week end. I got signed off on White Group, which is the most advanced solo group before becoming an instructor.
My check ride was the last session of the week end, but on what would have been my last lap, I lost something in the drive train. I think I blew up some torque tube bushings. I was idling on the side of the track in gear with the clutch engaged so something is definitely not right. I know it didn't sound good when it went.
After doing some research, Ive found that I need to find a newer Z06 style tube with the better 12mm bushing and larger drive shaft. I have also found out that it might be good to replace the rear bushing with an aluminum coupler. Now I just need to decide if I want to do this in my driveway. I dont really have the money to spend on labor to have a shop do it since I just spent my wad on the Wilwood SL6 calipers fort he front of my car.
Its just funny how it happened last lap of the last session of the week end. Car was running great and the brakes are a definite improvement over stock. Im also surprised at how much life I am getting out of these R6s that I bought used off this forum.
My check ride was the last session of the week end, but on what would have been my last lap, I lost something in the drive train. I think I blew up some torque tube bushings. I was idling on the side of the track in gear with the clutch engaged so something is definitely not right. I know it didn't sound good when it went.
After doing some research, Ive found that I need to find a newer Z06 style tube with the better 12mm bushing and larger drive shaft. I have also found out that it might be good to replace the rear bushing with an aluminum coupler. Now I just need to decide if I want to do this in my driveway. I dont really have the money to spend on labor to have a shop do it since I just spent my wad on the Wilwood SL6 calipers fort he front of my car.
Its just funny how it happened last lap of the last session of the week end. Car was running great and the brakes are a definite improvement over stock. Im also surprised at how much life I am getting out of these R6s that I bought used off this forum.
#2
Burning Brakes
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So I just wanted to get some feedback from the guys here since I do a lot of HPDEs with this car. Should I go to a aluminum bushing in the rear? This new torque tube that I have only is out of an 04Z and only has 7k on it so the bushings look brand new in it. Also, I was considering changing the slave and pilot bearing while I was in there even though I just did the job less than 2k miles ago.
#4
Team Owner
There's another recent thread here about that with a lot of info. I killed mine during my last session out as well. Car is not hapy.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...in-99-frc.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...in-99-frc.html
Last edited by Fastguy; 12-02-2008 at 09:04 PM.
#5
Race Director
there is no perfect fix. Sometimes they last 5 events, sometimes they last forever. I personally think the aluminum donut is a mistake, as it takes away the 'give' that protects the drivetrain, and can only increase fatigue in the aluminum shaft.
I would never to it in the driveway, as you need to remove the entire rear 2/3 of the drivetrain, but to each his own..
I would never to it in the driveway, as you need to remove the entire rear 2/3 of the drivetrain, but to each his own..
#7
Safety Car
I run a new rubber one up front and an aluminum one intherear. No problems so far and no weirdvibrations. It's been on for about 5,000 pampered miles.
Some guys run them front and back. This may be a little much for a driveway project as you will need to remove the rear end and the transaxle. But some people are capable of doing the craziest of things with little equipment.
Where are you located? If you have a shop that has a lot of experience they can pull that thing down andhave it back in a couple of hours. Rodneys group at RPM transmission could probably knock it out in about an hour. He has one guy for removal/installtions and that is all he does.
Some guys run them front and back. This may be a little much for a driveway project as you will need to remove the rear end and the transaxle. But some people are capable of doing the craziest of things with little equipment.
Where are you located? If you have a shop that has a lot of experience they can pull that thing down andhave it back in a couple of hours. Rodneys group at RPM transmission could probably knock it out in about an hour. He has one guy for removal/installtions and that is all he does.
#8
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Went through more Tq tubes then I can count on one hand. You're on the right track with the late model tubes, they are bigger and an overall better design.
I have aluminum bushing front and rear at the proding of the best Corvette tech and fastest racer I know. His have lasted and mine seems good as well. Like Matt, I'm not the easiest on equipment that I track either (possibly a slight understatement). I feel confident I will not have any further Tq tube issues.
Good luck with whatever you do, and really try and get a lift, and a cradle.
I have aluminum bushing front and rear at the proding of the best Corvette tech and fastest racer I know. His have lasted and mine seems good as well. Like Matt, I'm not the easiest on equipment that I track either (possibly a slight understatement). I feel confident I will not have any further Tq tube issues.
Good luck with whatever you do, and really try and get a lift, and a cradle.
#9
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I would run one aluminum and one rubber, but I really don't see this being a driveway job. Once you get the torque tube out you still need to have the tools to get the driveshaft out of the tube. I had to buy a snap ring tool that can remove a 3" snap ring ($75 from my friendly Snap-On dealer). It's not the easiest job to do but to each there own.
#11
Former Vendor
If you only run one, you will just break the other one. I run aluminum on both ends, so do all the TCC guys. No problems yet, but ours are not street cars.
#12
Burning Brakes
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Thanks for all the input guys. My car is still mostly a street car but I am doing HPDEs and will start soon building up to my TT license in HPDE4 with NASA so that tells you something as to how much I do this stuff.
As for a lift, I don't have access to one and since I just paid for a clutch change back in Oct, I hardly have the money for a new torque tube let alone paying for the labor on replacement. I am located in College Station, TX but if I were to take it to a shop, it would be the one I go to that's in New Braunfels.
I already have the tools to take the snap ring off and Ive taken the new tube apart. It was only 12 bux at Harbor Freight for a kit that had 12 snap ring pliers in it. Everything internal looks new as it only has 7k miles on it, and Im guessing those were easy miles. judging on how everything looks.
The other reason I went ahead and bought a newer style tube is so that I dont have to spend the time with the car apart rebuilding a new tube. I plan on having this tube ready to go in as soon as I get the car apart. I am a little gun shy on having the car this high in the air, but Im very safety conscious and will take my time. Ive gone through the steps in the tech manual and in write ups enough times that I can visualize the process about as well as you can without actually doing it.
I was originally planning on doing it today, but something came up this morning that I wasn't planning on and if I am going to put an aluminum coupler in there, then I need to order it now, which wont get here until next week if I decide to go that route.
As for a lift, I don't have access to one and since I just paid for a clutch change back in Oct, I hardly have the money for a new torque tube let alone paying for the labor on replacement. I am located in College Station, TX but if I were to take it to a shop, it would be the one I go to that's in New Braunfels.
I already have the tools to take the snap ring off and Ive taken the new tube apart. It was only 12 bux at Harbor Freight for a kit that had 12 snap ring pliers in it. Everything internal looks new as it only has 7k miles on it, and Im guessing those were easy miles. judging on how everything looks.
The other reason I went ahead and bought a newer style tube is so that I dont have to spend the time with the car apart rebuilding a new tube. I plan on having this tube ready to go in as soon as I get the car apart. I am a little gun shy on having the car this high in the air, but Im very safety conscious and will take my time. Ive gone through the steps in the tech manual and in write ups enough times that I can visualize the process about as well as you can without actually doing it.
I was originally planning on doing it today, but something came up this morning that I wasn't planning on and if I am going to put an aluminum coupler in there, then I need to order it now, which wont get here until next week if I decide to go that route.
#13
Le Mans Master
Thanks for all the input guys. My car is still mostly a street car but I am doing HPDEs and will start soon building up to my TT license in HPDE4 with NASA so that tells you something as to how much I do this stuff.
As for a lift, I don't have access to one and since I just paid for a clutch change back in Oct, I hardly have the money for a new torque tube let alone paying for the labor on replacement. I am located in College Station, TX but if I were to take it to a shop, it would be the one I go to that's in New Braunfels.
I already have the tools to take the snap ring off and Ive taken the new tube apart. It was only 12 bux at Harbor Freight for a kit that had 12 snap ring pliers in it. Everything internal looks new as it only has 7k miles on it, and Im guessing those were easy miles. judging on how everything looks.
The other reason I went ahead and bought a newer style tube is so that I dont have to spend the time with the car apart rebuilding a new tube. I plan on having this tube ready to go in as soon as I get the car apart. I am a little gun shy on having the car this high in the air, but Im very safety conscious and will take my time. Ive gone through the steps in the tech manual and in write ups enough times that I can visualize the process about as well as you can without actually doing it.
I was originally planning on doing it today, but something came up this morning that I wasn't planning on and if I am going to put an aluminum coupler in there, then I need to order it now, which wont get here until next week if I decide to go that route.
As for a lift, I don't have access to one and since I just paid for a clutch change back in Oct, I hardly have the money for a new torque tube let alone paying for the labor on replacement. I am located in College Station, TX but if I were to take it to a shop, it would be the one I go to that's in New Braunfels.
I already have the tools to take the snap ring off and Ive taken the new tube apart. It was only 12 bux at Harbor Freight for a kit that had 12 snap ring pliers in it. Everything internal looks new as it only has 7k miles on it, and Im guessing those were easy miles. judging on how everything looks.
The other reason I went ahead and bought a newer style tube is so that I dont have to spend the time with the car apart rebuilding a new tube. I plan on having this tube ready to go in as soon as I get the car apart. I am a little gun shy on having the car this high in the air, but Im very safety conscious and will take my time. Ive gone through the steps in the tech manual and in write ups enough times that I can visualize the process about as well as you can without actually doing it.
I was originally planning on doing it today, but something came up this morning that I wasn't planning on and if I am going to put an aluminum coupler in there, then I need to order it now, which wont get here until next week if I decide to go that route.
I am not currently running any aluminum spacer.....but Danny is primed to bust my chops if we rip up another TT....
#14
Burning Brakes
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Been there, done that in the driveway, just be careful & make d**n sure you're on good, stable, level ground & have a helper available (it's kinda dangerous alone & on your back). Keep your firewall in mind when lowering...Good luck.....
#15
The other reason I went ahead and bought a newer style tube is so that I dont have to spend the time with the car apart rebuilding a new tube. I plan on having this tube ready to go in as soon as I get the car apart. I am a little gun shy on having the car this high in the air, but Im very safety conscious and will take my time. Ive gone through the steps in the tech manual and in write ups enough times that I can visualize the process about as well as you can without actually doing it.
don't be gun shy about pulling the drivetrain with the car on jackstands, its not hard at all. I've got it down to a science now. it takes me less then 2 hours to get everything on the ground once I get the car in the air. just take your time and remember, its only nuts and bolts.