GettReal

I never did get around to posting pics of my accusump install, and I know there were not a lot of pics posted when I tried to search so I am adding mine so the next guy can get an idea of how mine was fitted and mounted. The brackets were all custom fabricated and fit/look like OEM parts. I had mine wired with an on/off toggle switch that is located inside my armrest.

trackboss

I installed mine a month or so ago and did it very similar. I made a very similar bracket out of aluminum. I installed two threaded inserts in the frame. Even put a similar punch/flare in mine too. My bracket is "Z" shaped and I folded a third side and welded the corner for strength. I also mounted it a bit lower and simply ran one air pressure line from the bottom so I use a tire press. guage to check. Also, I used the pressure switch and mounted it with adel clamps to the inner fender structure. I used a t fitting to tap into my oil line returning from the cooler. I plan on replacing the valve simply because I hate pipe threads and they already leak.
One concern I have is that my car ('99 FRC) has always had very low oil pressure and the accusump doesn't seem to dump too well with low pressure. My car is about 25-30psi at cruise and about 20psi at hot idle. I've installed several accusumps in the ford race cars I've built all with manual valves and never had a problem with the accusump dumping too slow. Those cars all have 40-60psi.
I'll try to post photos, but for some reason photobucket is not allowing me to upload photos right now.

AU N EGL

WBHighwind

Do you always have to run the pump or can you just run it while at the track? This is one thing that Ive always wondered on these things when concerning DD cars. I might like to add one to my car someday for the added protection, but it seems like overkill for the street.

trackboss

I sometimes use mine to prelube, but otherwise keep it off for street use.

GettReal

I sometimes use mine on the street... the only reason is because when its shut off, that canister can build up some internal pressure if you are taking a long drive on a really hot day. Flipping it on just regulates the pressure to what the motor is running.

How do I know this??? I had a 110lb blow off valve before the new 165lb and it actually released after 6 hours on the way to Carlisle.

Falcon

That's where mine was mounted until I went into the wall and it almost got knocked off, which would have been catastrophic. I moved it to inside the cockpit and peace of mind increased.

Z06_BluByU

I would consider going in to the wall catastrophic!!

trackboss

I've always used the manual valve because all my previous applications were race cars. This one being a street car I tried out the electric valve with the pressure switch. I was told by canton that the accusump can fill with the valve off, and found that to be true, but I have not experienced any sort of high pressure issue. In the past I know of problems with the electric valve on race cars. I believe it either provided resistance to filling fast or would not dump fast enough. Supposedly adding the pressure switch solved the problem. I'm still on the fence as I have not tried it on the track yet. Theoretically it should work better because it only dumps after the oil pressure has come down to a certain point where as the manual valve is simply open all the time and the accusump carries the same pressure as the motor. As the motor loses pressure so does the accusump. One thing I like about the manual valve is that I can shut it off after pre-lube at start up and then open and close it multiple times after start up so as not to starve teh motor of oil. With the valve open the accusump will fill before the motor and essentially starve the motor of oil until it's full.

69427

How do you figure? Most every Accusump I've seen (including mine) are plumbed in parallel to the engine oiling system. The engine and the Accusump see the same pressure. The only way I see that you can starve the engine at startup is to plumb the Accusump right at the oilpump, and then you would also need a long, pressure-dropping oil passage upstream of any bearings. Doesn't seem like a likely scenario.

trackboss

The accusump is another cavity in the oil system. I've plumbed them all in the oil line after the filter. Just to clarify: oil is picked up from the pan, goes through the pump, then through the filter, and into the oil passages of the motor where the oil does it's job then it simply drains back down into the pan. All oil coolers I've done tap directly into the oil immediately after it gets filtered so the oil goes through the cooler before it goes into the motor. The accusumps I've installed are plumbed directly into the oil cooler return line with either a check valve or, if using a remote oil filter mount, a filter with an anti drain back valve. In this case, the accusump is the first cavity the oil goes to as it approaches the engine. If the accusump is empty it will fill and the motor will not get much oil, if any, until the accusump is full. In my opinion this is the only way to install an accusump correctly. You can plumb directy into the oil pump feed, but then the accusump will not protect against oil pump failure. The way I install them the accusump directly feeds the oil passages of the motor when the oil pump cannot because of oil starvation, oil pump failure, or otherwise. The oil is forced to go through the oil passages of the motor in the exact same way that the oil pump pressurizes it.
That all being said this is my first install using a block adapter that replaces the oil temp sending unit. All the others were done the remote oil filter way. Does anyone know if using the block adapter allows unfiltered oil to go to the oil cooler? Reason I ask is because the sending unit mount is there simply to allow a small amount of oil to bypass the filter the way I see it. That being the case as oil travels from the pump to the filter it then has a choice of going to the oil cooler or the filter(when the block adapter is in place). That would mean that not all oil is filtered. Also, if an anti drainback filter is not used then the oil returning from the cooler or coming from the accusump can go backwards inside the filter itself.

Wayne O

Good job and thanks for posting...I just ordered an Accusump today.

RobertEarl

I wired mine into the electiric fuel pump. That way, when you turn the key on, it comes on for up to two seconds unless the engine starts in which case it stays on. When you cut the key off, it is off. With it wired this way, you get the pre oil feature but if you leave the key on it will cut off after 2 seconds just like the fuel pump.

Reb

AU N EGL

I run a manual switch on mine.

When ever I get in the car, I turn the key to "accessory", allow the gages to swing and settle down, then flip the sump switch and watch the oil pressure go up.

This pre lubs the block

Then crank the motor over.

Yes I run mine all the time.
Just be for turning the motor off, I rev the motor just slightly to get the oil pressure up too help fill the sump tank. Then flip the sump switch off, then shut the motor off.

I does take a little long with oil changes, to drain and refill but not too bad.

the only thing I dont run for street driving is the tranmission pump an cooler,. That is LOUD

Bville-Bud

Nice pics! How much time / effort to get the fender off? How long did the whole project take?

Thanks!

Falcon

Nah, that's just another day at the office.

Now on your roof, that would be catastrophic.

AU N EGL

Ol Falcon had this on his OLD car

Ernesto Roco

V,

I think this just went over everyone's head..

Most people don't realize that the first few seconds after you fire up the car after prelubing and the Accusump that is mostly empty of oil must first be refilled with oil before supplying oil to the engine. While the engine is running

You can't control that aspect of it's function with an elec switch. I controlled this with a manual switch that I partly close after prelubing/starting the engine and slowly fills the accusump..

GettReal

Took me about an hour to take the fender off (actually pretty easy) and 45 minutes to put it all back together. I took my wheel off and and the headlight assembly but otherwise here is a link that shows how to pull the fender off by not removing the wheel or light assembly, I double checked this link for the screw locations.


And thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, it will make things easier for the next guys that want to do this.

Bville-Bud

I don't see a link?