Brake pad help.
#1
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Brake pad help.
Hey guys...
So I need some help with my setup. I have a stock 04 C5Z for the most part.
Here's what I've been running the last few track days:
-Nitto 555R2s
-Goodridge SS brake lines
-ATE Superblue
-NAPA rotors
-Carbotech XP10s front / XP8s rear
The good news: I got moved up into the blue group in HPDE3! Woot, this was my goal for the year
The bad news: I completely destroyed the rear carbotechs. During my 5th run of the weekend I got a very soft pedal like I boiled the fluid over. So I came off, had the system flushed out and went to head back out there....pedal felt even worse and now I had an icky grinding sound.
Turns out my rear inside pads were worn down to almost nothing. I limped home and will be taking them off this weekend for the time being.
But here's my question...so the fluid probably boiled over because the fronts were doing so much work when the rear pads crapped out...that's not my concern. I NEED to find a pad that will last me.
I drive the car to and from the event and would like to be able to run something that I can slap on and "deal with" the noise and dust on the street but absolutely kick *** on the track.
I'm done with Carbotechs after this. I've run Porterfields RS-4s before and would be open to the R4....I've also heard good things about the Hawk DTC-70s.
Would love to find something that will last more than 4 track days
Help me out guys! Sorry for the long post.
-Ryan
PS - pics to follow of the rear carnage in a few days.
So I need some help with my setup. I have a stock 04 C5Z for the most part.
Here's what I've been running the last few track days:
-Nitto 555R2s
-Goodridge SS brake lines
-ATE Superblue
-NAPA rotors
-Carbotech XP10s front / XP8s rear
The good news: I got moved up into the blue group in HPDE3! Woot, this was my goal for the year
The bad news: I completely destroyed the rear carbotechs. During my 5th run of the weekend I got a very soft pedal like I boiled the fluid over. So I came off, had the system flushed out and went to head back out there....pedal felt even worse and now I had an icky grinding sound.
Turns out my rear inside pads were worn down to almost nothing. I limped home and will be taking them off this weekend for the time being.
But here's my question...so the fluid probably boiled over because the fronts were doing so much work when the rear pads crapped out...that's not my concern. I NEED to find a pad that will last me.
I drive the car to and from the event and would like to be able to run something that I can slap on and "deal with" the noise and dust on the street but absolutely kick *** on the track.
I'm done with Carbotechs after this. I've run Porterfields RS-4s before and would be open to the R4....I've also heard good things about the Hawk DTC-70s.
Would love to find something that will last more than 4 track days
Help me out guys! Sorry for the long post.
-Ryan
PS - pics to follow of the rear carnage in a few days.
Last edited by City Goat; 02-25-2009 at 11:53 AM.
#2
Safety Car
If you're burning through rear pads are you running with Active Handling on? Or even Competition Driving Mode? When I first got the C6 I forgot to disable it for a session and ended up in Comp Mode -- when I got back to the paddock I had more rear brake dust (and heat) from a single session than I normally have for an entire day...
So far Wilwood H pads are my favorite; I can put them on at home and drive to the track on them without issue, too. I swap out to BP20 pads for the street now, though.
So far Wilwood H pads are my favorite; I can put them on at home and drive to the track on them without issue, too. I swap out to BP20 pads for the street now, though.
#3
Drifting
If you're burning through rear pads are you running with Active Handling on? Or even Competition Driving Mode? When I first got the C6 I forgot to disable it for a session and ended up in Comp Mode -- when I got back to the paddock I had more rear brake dust (and heat) from a single session than I normally have for an entire day...
.
.
#4
Burning Brakes
with GKMcCready about the Wilwood's.
I've only used Wilwood H's on-track, so I can't offer a comparison. But, after doing the same research you're now doing and getting recommendations from some very respected HPDE instructors with Vettes, the Wilwood's proved to be a good choice for my driving style.
I really like the initial bite, smooth release and linearity characteristics. Even after 4 hard-driven track days, 8 autocrosses and ~1500 street miles, they've shown only minimal wear. And since the NCM instructors were told to insist that TC/AH be left ON for all students at VIR, I had to run Competition Mode until I was signed off. It didn't seem to affect the rear brakes, and I do tend to trail brake heavily thru the big braking zones at turns 14/14a and 1.
The H's are known to be pretty rough on rotors. But I've come to accept that, especially given the performance vs. price ratio.
Keep in mind, Wilwood stresses that you really shouldn't use them much on the street, because running them well under their high operating temps (MOT) will wear your rotors much more then normal. Driving to/from the track and to auto-x'es with them mounted certainly hasn't been an issue for me, though.
...Just note that they are VERY noisy for street use ...
I've only used Wilwood H's on-track, so I can't offer a comparison. But, after doing the same research you're now doing and getting recommendations from some very respected HPDE instructors with Vettes, the Wilwood's proved to be a good choice for my driving style.
I really like the initial bite, smooth release and linearity characteristics. Even after 4 hard-driven track days, 8 autocrosses and ~1500 street miles, they've shown only minimal wear. And since the NCM instructors were told to insist that TC/AH be left ON for all students at VIR, I had to run Competition Mode until I was signed off. It didn't seem to affect the rear brakes, and I do tend to trail brake heavily thru the big braking zones at turns 14/14a and 1.
The H's are known to be pretty rough on rotors. But I've come to accept that, especially given the performance vs. price ratio.
Keep in mind, Wilwood stresses that you really shouldn't use them much on the street, because running them well under their high operating temps (MOT) will wear your rotors much more then normal. Driving to/from the track and to auto-x'es with them mounted certainly hasn't been an issue for me, though.
...Just note that they are VERY noisy for street use ...
#5
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Wow! Good to know.
I run with Comp. mode on. As I progress and get more comfortable/switch to a slick that will change but for now and the next few sessions I'll be sticking with that.
So I guess my next question is what is a good compound pad that will last and match up to my abuse??? lol
Thanks guys!
I run with Comp. mode on. As I progress and get more comfortable/switch to a slick that will change but for now and the next few sessions I'll be sticking with that.
So I guess my next question is what is a good compound pad that will last and match up to my abuse??? lol
Thanks guys!
#6
Drifting
If you're burning through rear pads are you running with Active Handling on? Or even Competition Driving Mode? When I first got the C6 I forgot to disable it for a session and ended up in Comp Mode -- when I got back to the paddock I had more rear brake dust (and heat) from a single session than I normally have for an entire day...
So far Wilwood H pads are my favorite; I can put them on at home and drive to the track on them without issue, too. I swap out to BP20 pads for the street now, though.
So far Wilwood H pads are my favorite; I can put them on at home and drive to the track on them without issue, too. I swap out to BP20 pads for the street now, though.
Anyway, I have used PFC (non z-rated, non 01's) and have gotten about ~3-4 track days at Thunderhill and Fernley. I just switched to Cobalt XR2's and they are awesome. Btw, the rears are still the PFC's; last I checked, I still had ~1/3-1/2 of pad left on inside/outside.
I did use the Porterfield R4 on my Boxster and have ~8-9 track days on those.
I run the fastest run group (open or advance, or whatever you may call it) and I am easier on the brakes and tires than avg (based on reading on the forum). I am still on the oe Supercars with ~5-6 track days on them ( I have regular GY runflats for the street). I use ATE Blue also.
#7
Melting Slicks
Try one session with t/c completely off. Comp mode will burn up your rear pads and you might be relying on it more than you think. I've only been doing hpde for 1 year now and I usually run with everything off. Also, if you switch to a different pad, you might want to get some new rotors too so they bed in well. BTW I use hawk hp+ and they work well for me
#8
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Rotors and pads are so easy to change I recommend not driving your track setup from home to the track. Keep your street pads/rotors on while driving and take your track rotors pads and change at the track. Also in case you have a failure you still have a back-up with your street setup. I ran The Glen this past week-end along with 5 other Vette guys. Pad choices ranged from Hawk HT-10 to BHP (no longer available). I ran BHP will go back to Hawk HT-10. I use GS-610 brake fluid. Motul and ATE before, GS-610 works better for my setup.
#9
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I started off doing HPDEs on Hawk Blues. They have excellent life but eat up rotors and the dust will ruin your wheels. I went through a rotor before I went through a pad with Blues.
This last week end that I did, I ran DTC-70 which I really liked but they started with about 75% pad depth and I only got one week end on them. They might be good for an AX or two now.
This last week end that I did, I ran DTC-70 which I really liked but they started with about 75% pad depth and I only got one week end on them. They might be good for an AX or two now.
#12
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
city goat, you may want to check your rear calipers. we never had a rear pad wear down before the front on a vette unless there was a mechanical faliure. if you choose not to run carbotech again thats your choice. but for a saftey issue i would check the rear calipers before looking for new pads.
#13
Former Vendor
The active handling, even in comp mode, will work your rear brakes far more then normal, resulting in shorter pad life. The NCM insists new drivers to HPDE (green, yellow, and maybe blue) leave it on because of safety. It is safer for new trackers, but will wear your rear brakes sooner.
If you are looking for a great track pad, try Cobalt Friction XR2. With 12years of racing Corvettes in SCCA, this is by far the best pad out there. Superior stopping performance with no brake fade, lasting 2 to 3 times longer then the competition, and are not hard on rotors. I have just changed pads after 6 events this year, and the rotors are as smooth as new. A tremendous product that few in club racing or HPDE know about. Once you try them though, you won't be going back to any other pad. We also have a 2 piece rotor made with Coleman Racing rotors. They are made to our spec and we make the hats in house. They are 100% USA made slotted only - no holes, directional, correctly vented, and weigh far less then the stock rotors. We have them for the C5/C6 stock size, Z51, and Z06. If interested, give us a call at 630-844-0089.
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
If you are looking for a great track pad, try Cobalt Friction XR2. With 12years of racing Corvettes in SCCA, this is by far the best pad out there. Superior stopping performance with no brake fade, lasting 2 to 3 times longer then the competition, and are not hard on rotors. I have just changed pads after 6 events this year, and the rotors are as smooth as new. A tremendous product that few in club racing or HPDE know about. Once you try them though, you won't be going back to any other pad. We also have a 2 piece rotor made with Coleman Racing rotors. They are made to our spec and we make the hats in house. They are 100% USA made slotted only - no holes, directional, correctly vented, and weigh far less then the stock rotors. We have them for the C5/C6 stock size, Z51, and Z06. If interested, give us a call at 630-844-0089.
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
#14
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Try one session with t/c completely off. Comp mode will burn up your rear pads and you might be relying on it more than you think. I've only been doing hpde for 1 year now and I usually run with everything off. Also, if you switch to a different pad, you might want to get some new rotors too so they bed in well. BTW I use hawk hp+ and they work well for me
It has already been flushed out with fresh stuff
city goat, you may want to check your rear calipers. we never had a rear pad wear down before the front on a vette unless there was a mechanical faliure. if you choose not to run carbotech again thats your choice. but for a saftey issue i would check the rear calipers before looking for new pads.
I'll know more once they are off.
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Thanks for the tip. I think for next season I'll either try the Wilwood H or the Hawk DTC-70.
It has already been flushed out with fresh stuff
Not crapping on Carbotech and thanks for the tip but it is for sure not a mechanical issue. I'll have pics up once I pull the pads/rotors this weekend but I'm pretty sure it's not so much extreme wear from the rears more so that they actually chunked apart.
I'll know more once they are off.
It has already been flushed out with fresh stuff
Not crapping on Carbotech and thanks for the tip but it is for sure not a mechanical issue. I'll have pics up once I pull the pads/rotors this weekend but I'm pretty sure it's not so much extreme wear from the rears more so that they actually chunked apart.
I'll know more once they are off.
#16
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Hey just wanted to give an update.
No pics since gf took the camera for the week lol but really nothing extraordinary to show. The rears were worn down to the backing plates on all 4 pads, and came very close to completely burning up a dust boot on the LR piston. Can't really blame this on anything but the AH f'n with it when Comp mode is on.
Thanks for the info guys. For next year I'm going to just begin to phase out using Comp mode altogether and switching to Wilwood H's
No pics since gf took the camera for the week lol but really nothing extraordinary to show. The rears were worn down to the backing plates on all 4 pads, and came very close to completely burning up a dust boot on the LR piston. Can't really blame this on anything but the AH f'n with it when Comp mode is on.
Thanks for the info guys. For next year I'm going to just begin to phase out using Comp mode altogether and switching to Wilwood H's
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Carbotech, do you have any stopping distance data for repeated braking, or comparing other pads? I gotta get some thing better the A6's make the stock brakes feel weak.
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
no, if i gather what you are saying is you are running are ax6 and they dont stop. the ax6 is a autocross pad developed to stop from dead cold. please explain what you are saying.
#20