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Coleman rotors....anyone have good luck with them?

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Old 10-01-2008, 07:27 PM
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L98Terror
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Default Coleman rotors....anyone have good luck with them?

I just got my first set a month or two ago, I bedded them at Grattan, then headed to Nationals and my right front cracked all the way though on Sunday Morning during practice.

I sent it back to Coleman and they said there wasn't any wrong with the rotor that they could see, they think it might of had too much cooling.

I'm not sure what to think going through rotors faster than pads

BTW The car was built in 2003 and I was told it's only had two sets of rotors on the car. Colemans=One weekend.

Needless to say I ordered another one and will block off my cooling ducts and report back.
Old 10-01-2008, 07:42 PM
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94ZR1#444
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Now thats a new one, too much cooling. What's next?

I believe I have Coleman rotors that I bought through DRM. They lasted about 6 events and are nearing being replaced.
Old 10-01-2008, 07:55 PM
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John Shiels
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Originally Posted by L98Terror
I just got my first set a month or two ago, I bedded them at Grattan, then headed to Nationals and my right front cracked all the way though on Sunday Morning during practice.

I sent it back to Coleman and they said there wasn't any wrong with the rotor that they could see, they think it might of had too much cooling.

I'm not sure what to think going through rotors faster than pads

BTW The car was built in 2003 and I was told it's only had two sets of rotors on the car. Colemans=One weekend.

Needless to say I ordered another one and will block off my cooling ducts and report back.
how are you cooling the rotors? 13" or 14" pad compound?
Old 10-01-2008, 08:51 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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We have been rocking the Coleman rotors for a long time. There is a few secrets to making them last. Send me the specs and I will take a good look at them. They have a few different options that are well worth the extra cash.

About 8 weeks ago, I made a post about a customer's report. 54 hours on a set of rotors, 1 hour and 3 hour long races. I'm trying to get some pads from his sercet (down under) conection. If I put a post looking for backing plates, this is the reason. They don't do new pads

Yes too much cooling can be a issue. Not normally with 3000 pound cars with power. But it can happen, with the right temps outside, wrong pad, not enough braking, too long of a straight away. I had a 3 hour lunch with a circle track AP rep. Super nice guy, he felt bad for me with road racing. There is a bunch of turns, then a long straight at almost all the tracks. These tracks make it very hard to control the ups and downs of rotor temps.

I would love to hear about the rest of your setup and driving style.

Randy
Old 10-01-2008, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 94ZR1#444
Now thats a new one, too much cooling. What's next?

I believe I have Coleman rotors that I bought through DRM. They lasted about 6 events and are nearing being replaced.
Hows that system working out for you anyways??? I haven't talked to you in almost a year. I hope all is well, 6 events is getting to the point of needing some spares.


Randy
Old 10-01-2008, 09:38 PM
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L98Terror
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
how are you cooling the rotors? 13" or 14" pad compound?
14" rotors, 1.250 thick .......I don't know I think PFC what ever came on the car. I will be putting on Hawk DTC 70 upfront and DTC 60 in the rear once my new rotor shows up.

Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
We have been rocking the Coleman rotors for a long time. There is a few secrets to making them last. Send me the specs and I will take a good look at them. They have a few different options that are well worth the extra cash.


Yes too much cooling can be a issue. Not normally with 3000 pound cars with power. But it can happen, with the right temps outside, wrong pad, not enough braking, too long of a straight away. I had a 3 hour lunch with a circle track AP rep. Super nice guy, he felt bad for me with road racing. There is a bunch of turns, then a long straight at almost all the tracks. These tracks make it very hard to control the ups and downs of rotor temps.

I would love to hear about the rest of your setup and driving style.

Randy


Driving style I'm quick but not quick enough. I'm not really hard on these brakes since there is no ABS and I'm still learning the brakes, I brake at about the same points as I did with my Stock C5Z06 but am going a little slower because of areo.

If you want to see my driving style I can post a video.

Last edited by L98Terror; 10-01-2008 at 09:40 PM.
Old 10-01-2008, 09:56 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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Well you can post a video of your driving, because I love watching them anyways Where did the rotor crack??? Did they look the same side to side???
Was one worse then the other. The only reason why I asked, is the pistons on those calipers get pretty long as the pad wears thin. Nice endro calipers!!!

Those ACP ducts are big and flow lots of air. Get some rotor temp paint and do some testing. Don't block them all the way off. Hawk will tell you how hot you should be.

Get the slots opposite, of the vanes.

Randy
Old 10-01-2008, 10:17 PM
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L98Terror
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
Well you can post a video of your driving, because I love watching them anyways Where did the rotor crack??? Did they look the same side to side???
Was one worse then the other. The only reason why I asked, is the pistons on those calipers get pretty long as the pad wears thin. Nice endro calipers!!!

Those ACP ducts are big and flow lots of air. Get some rotor temp paint and do some testing. Don't block them all the way off. Hawk will tell you how hot you should be.

Get the slots opposite, of the vanes.

Randy

The new rotors weren't slotted. There is quite abit of pad left at that point, I just looked and it looks like the pad is still just a C hair shy of a 1/2" and that's after a 40 minute race.
Old 10-01-2008, 10:31 PM
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L98Terror
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http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=38504960

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Old 10-02-2008, 07:56 AM
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It also depends on how they are mounted. Our 14 inch rotors last a very long time (2 years or so), mainly due to proper design and understanding of the forces involved. In addition, we have ours heat treated and balanced which adds $30 of our cost but makes them last longer. Here is a set after 2 years:
Old 10-02-2008, 11:59 AM
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Ken, can you put up a picture from the inside or underneath to show where the dooling ducts point at the rotor? I still think your cooling system cools the outside edge more than the inside, and the temp differential is great enough to cause cracking.

I would just block those vents all together to start with. You've got 14" brakes on a 3000# car, with ST2 horsepower, you probably don't even need cooling at all. I've got zero cooling, 3650#, 400rwhp and only 13" stock vette brakes and I barely burn off the rubber piston boots.

Try that temp paint stuff, put some on the rotor and see what its looking like.

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