waddisme

Don't want to take any chances with new $10k engine. It is a 402 al block, so I thought the 3 qt would be better than 2 qt. If I just want to use it on the track, the would a manual valve kit be what I need? Would electric kit tied to ignition be better due to pre-oiling? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Just for sh*ts and giggles, would an Accusump have prevented the cracked ring in #7 in my old sc engine?

J.R.

Use the electric and wire to ignition switch or put a separate toggle switch, but remember to keep it turned on, so that you have the pre oiling capabilities.

With a manual you have to mount with close accessibility to driving position. With the electric you can mount on drivers side frame rail inside fender well and run hose directly to front of block on drivers side.

There are some threads with good photos and directions if you do search. I would recommend the 25 psi electric switch model.

SouthernSon

Total cost, around $1600....seriously. The parts are just the beginning. Wait until you price all of those itty bitty fittins....... But, that said, I am glad I have one. I now have a preoiler, an emergency supply for dry spells, and a really kewl off/on switch in my cockpit........

trackboss

On my race cars I always use a manual valve. If it is a street car and the sump is not mounted inside the car you can still use a manual valve with a remote cable. On my C5 I have purchased an EPC electric valve. Do not use the standard electric valve as it does not discharge fast enough. If using electric it is best to use a switch and understand how to use it. Same with the manual. If you discharge the oil before firing the motor DO NOT LEAVE THE VALVE OPEN. A properly plumbed accusump will fill before the motor if the valve is left open. The correct way to do it if you prefer to pre-lube the motor is to discharge, close the valve, fire motor and wait for full oil pressure, then pulse the valve on/off for just a second or two each time until the accusump fills. Watch your oil pressure guage when opening the valve and you will see pressure drop. After a few pulses you will notice the oil pressure not drop as much and at that point just leave the valve open. The idea behind this is to prevent oil starvation. This applies to the manual valve. The EPC valve is new to me.

AU N EGL

would an accu-sump prevented your #7 failure? it is quite possible that it would have

waddisme

Thanks for the info. I am not that interested in pre-lubing as much as I am about starvation. I need to do some more research, but if I just had the manual switch and engaged it during track days, would that work? It doesn't matter whether I could reach it from cockpit. Maybe I am not understanding how it works, but that was my thought process, but I will research. Thanks.

gkull

Total parts cost $478 with electric hooked to ignition. Now if you are talking remote oil coolers and filters it goes up. I work at a race shop.

As to the other poster. Canton sells these pressure regulators in three values 25 being the lowest. Your better off just setting the air bladder to your application. When you first turn the ign. sw. you will see a spike in oil pressure as it preoils. then turn on the starter and fire the motor. The oil pump then starts to refill the Accusump

I have my air at 40 psi. I have a non bypass oiling system with about 80 psi at anything over 4000 rpm hot. In a turn my oil pressure never goes below 40.

waddisme

ouch!

Falcon

I was told by the Accusump people that ~10#'s was all the air pressure needed when the Accusump was empty. Any more than that would make the engine oil pump have to work too hard as the sump filled and pressure builds. It'd be worth a call to them to verify that.

BTW, the valve on mine is electric with a toggle switch.

RedLS6

IMO, the Accusump would not have prevented it, since most ring / ring land problems such as yours happen not due to oiling, but due to added combustion stress on the stock parts. With your supercharged engine + stock pistons/rings + road course use, it was only a matter of time.

AU N EGL

So is mine

69427

Why so high of an air precharge? At forty pounds, the container will stop functioning and remain empty anytime the oil pressure is less than forty. Reducing the initial charge (to around 10#) will allow the cylinder to store a larger volume of oil (by allowing the internal piston to move further into the cylinder before the compressed air stops the piston).
Just my opinion. Been working for me on my turbo 355 setup.

gkull

I have over 40 psi at hot idle. So the cylinder is full all the time the motor is running. My gauge just driving around is usually over 60 and climbs right to 80 as the rpm goes up. I don't want less than 40 psi.

10 psi would scare me with a 4 inch stroker crank and 434 ci. I fire the motor hold it on 2500 rpm and 80 psi cold until the temp gauge gets up to 150 F water and then move the car.

I broke a nice forged crank shaft a couple years ago and nearly lost the block. A couple of year before that I broke a solid roller lifter and it was major damage. This is a race motor not some 100,000 mile daily driver. If I get 30 hours between rebuilds I consider it great

69427

I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, but unless your Accusump is different than mine, you are not doing yourself any benefit with the increased charge pressure. The internal piston won't move (or store any oil) until the oil pressure exceeds your 40# preset value. Think about what happens here. At 39 pounds oil pressure, the Accusump is completely empty. When the oil pressure goes to forty, still nothing. At 41 pounds there will be a couple teaspoons worth in there, as the piston only moved about an eighth of an inch before the charge air compressed to 41 pounds, stopping the piston.
Now, lets jump to 80 pounds oil pressure. The piston will have moved to the center of the cylinder, as the charge air reached 80 pounds when it hits half its original volume. So, at this high precharge, the Accusump is only half full of oil. And when it discharges, it will stop doing anything for your motor when the oil pressure drops below 40 pounds. It's just front end weight ballast after that point.
If you precharge it to 10 pounds, the cylinder will fill to approximately 80-85% (at 80 psi oil pressure) before the piston stops moving, and it will also keep feeding oil back into your engine all the way down to 10 pounds. That's free insurance, both time and pressure wise.

trackboss

I set all of mine at around 7psi pressure when empty. When full at idle a quick check with a guage shows roughly 7psi more than my engine oil pressure guage. ex. if the idle pressure is 30psi then the accusump will be 37. If there is much more than 10psi the accusump won't fill completely. I have taken these things apart and it takes very little pressure to extend the piston all the way for full discharge.

SouthernSon

So true. I had the cooler installed at the same time. Of course, one does not have to figure this into the cost. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for clearing up the matter for those looking to do the mod.

gkull

This is why mine is at 40. it should be 7-10 over the lowest operating pressure

Slalom4me

The Canton Accusump Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) version of
the accumulator valve adds a pressurestat on the gallery side in front
of the valve.



All three version of the pstats are/were physically the same, they differ
only by the pressure value at which they have been calibrated to
actuate - the actuation adjustment screw resides under a cap plug in
the case of the pstat.



The purpose of the pressurestat is to electrically control actuation of
the accumulator valve, according to the pressure detected on the oil
gallery side of the valve. When wired properly, the pstat opens the
valve when gallery pressure falls below the set point and closes the
valve above the SP.

The accumulator valve features one-way operation when closed. This
allows oil into the accumulator when the valve is deactivated, enabling
the cylinder to fill fully. The closed valve holds this fill at the maximum
pressure attained in the galley during operation.

Without the pstat of the E.P.C., activating the valve would open it to
the gallery and the fill level of the accumulator would rise and fall
according to the pressure in the gallery. Full at full throttle, less full
at part throttle as oil pressure in the gallery drops. Thus during a
pressure drop 'event' at part throttle, there is less charge in the
accumulator for reserve use.

With the pstat, the accumulator fills through the closed valve and
remains full regardless of pressure variations in the gallery, until such
time as the pressure drops below the set point of the pressure stat.
Then the pressurestat opens the valve enabling the full accumulator
to discharge its contents as required. When/if the 'event' passes, as
soon as the gallery pressure rises above the set point, the valve
closes again - my vote is that this has some benefit in improving the
pressure and flow available for the engine components.

Incidently, while I have not seen the approach used by others, one
possible solution for preventing the accumulator from discharging at idle
is to add a switch at the throttle to only activate the accumulator
valve above a certain throttle opening position.

Further discussion and images appear in:.

69427

Sorry, but that doesn't make any sense. If you lose an oil pump for some reason, your lowest operating pressure at that moment will be zero, and your setup takes a powder at anything below forty pounds.

Slalom4me

Canton's recommendation - from pg 5:
ACCUSUMP™ INSTALLATION & OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
.