Zee0hh6ix

I recently got some CCW wheels with R6's. I'm looking to do an alignment and camber setup. This is my first venture into non street tires, so I'm not sure where to start. The car see very little street driving maybe 100 miles a month, so I’m not too worried about the street tires when they go on. Can some one point in the right direction and what, if anything, is required (ie camber kit) to do the setup.
Thanks in advance.

95jersey

There are no camber kits required. Just mount the tires and get a good track allignment done. If you have a qualified race shop, that is a good way to go, if not, you can bring the specs to any decent allignment shop and have them allign the car to those specs. Make sure you ask for a print out of the final reading before paying and if it is not very close, I would make them do it again until they get it right before paying.


You don't need any kits. Camber kits for vettes are really only to hold the allignment in place in case you hit curbs or such. I rarely every see my allignment go out of spec and I bang off curbing all the time.

C5Lion

Hoosier recommends -3 degrees camber for best results. Go to there website where they have more information.

gonzalezfj

You won't be able to get -3 degrees in your C6Z, but the good news is you don't need it.

My car is maxed out at -2.7 front and -1.7 rear camber. 1/16" toe in front, 1/8" toe in rear.

In order to get -2.7 camber you will need to remove the spacers (they look like washers) between the upper control arms and the frame. There should be 2 washers under each bolt. Each washer removed increases negative camber by about 1/2 degree.

I run 26 PSI front and 23 PSI rear (cold).

You will love the R6s with this setup, and it is not too detrimental to street tire life.

Enjoy...

Frank Gonzalez

BEZ06

Frank

Can you please explain your toe settings a little more?

When you say "toe in front" and "toe in rear", do you mean "toe-in" in front and "toe-in" in rear?

A lot of stuff I've read indicates toe-out in front will help with turn-in initiation, and toe-in in the rear will help reduce oversteer - especially with power application.

TIA,

Bob

95jersey

I think he meant 1/16th of toe in the front and 1/8th toe in the rear. I run the toe OUT in the front and IN in the rear. I removed 2 washers in the front and 1 in the rear and I acually got -3.0

Car runs like at bat out of h*ll

BEZ06

Good info - and that's what I was planning on using (toe-out up front and toe-in for the rear).

I've got Hoosier R6's for running the Rolex course at Daytona this year - last year I ran on my street tires and alignment.

Any thoughts on setting things up any differently for the high-banked oval? I've got to deal with the lefties and righties in the infield, then the extended NASCAR high-speed left turns on the high-banked section.

Bob

gonzalezfj

Sorry for the missing hyphens and the possibility of misinterpreting my words.

Toe-in in the front was recommended because the writer is planning to run the car on the street. Toe-out in front makes the car too nervous for street use, in my opinion.

Toe-out in front is what you want for fast turn-in at the track. If your car is for track use only, then by all means put in some toe-out.

Toe-in in the rear will help control oversteer as you correctly point out.

Hope this helps.

Frank Gonzalez

Zee0hh6ix

I spoke with John at CCW (where i bought the wheels and tires) and he said 1/8 toe-out at the front and 3/16 toe-in at the back. I'm not to concerned with street driving, as it doesn't happen much. Anyone have something similar?

naschmitz

I've set up my car with 1/16 toe-out in front, 1/8 toe-in in the rear with -2 camber front and -1.5 camber in the rear. Even with the GY Runflats on the street the car handles fine. I am running 255/35/18 and 295/30/19 Toyo R888s on stock wheels for autocross with a Z51 front sway bar and a stock rear sway bar and the car is pretty balanced.

Granted, my car is not a C6Z, but the track alignment works pretty well on the street.

ghoffman

You can get all the opinions you want, but the bottom line is that you need to do this yourself. It is not very hard to do, and when you do it, you can evaluate what works for you. There are many variables such as tires, bushing types, shocks, springs, sway bars, ride height, driving style and so on. When you can try different setups, you not only save money, you can see what the effect each adjustments do, and you get faster and make your tires last longer.