Alignment and tire pressure suggestions
#1
Heel & Toe
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Alignment and tire pressure suggestions
I am about to run my base C6 again at another road course and am planning on doing it several more times next year. What I am looking for is input on what I should go for as far as alignment and a general idea on what tire pressure I should be running at.
The only mods I have done so far are DOT 4 fluid, racing pads, slotted/vented rotors, and Hotchkiss sway bars. I am also running on the stock tires. Next year I hope to have racing tires and a coil over but not quite yet.
I do us it on the street as well but want to get it set up fairly well for courses Like Road America and Autobahn.
Thanks in advance
The only mods I have done so far are DOT 4 fluid, racing pads, slotted/vented rotors, and Hotchkiss sway bars. I am also running on the stock tires. Next year I hope to have racing tires and a coil over but not quite yet.
I do us it on the street as well but want to get it set up fairly well for courses Like Road America and Autobahn.
Thanks in advance
#2
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
Since you use your vette on both the street and track, a good compromise alignment would be: Front Camber: -1.2 deg Caster: 7 deg Toe: 0.0 in and Rear Camber: -0.8 deg and Toe: 0.0".
If you want a little more aggressive street/track alignment you could increase the negative camber on the Front to -1.6 deg and Rear -1.1 deg with Toe set at 1/8", but these specs will slowly wear the inside of your street tires
Since you're running street tires (hopefully NOT run flats), you may want to start the air pressure cold at 32 psi, but check their pressures hot as soon as you come off the track - should not exceed 40 psi. Hope this helps.
If you want a little more aggressive street/track alignment you could increase the negative camber on the Front to -1.6 deg and Rear -1.1 deg with Toe set at 1/8", but these specs will slowly wear the inside of your street tires
Since you're running street tires (hopefully NOT run flats), you may want to start the air pressure cold at 32 psi, but check their pressures hot as soon as you come off the track - should not exceed 40 psi. Hope this helps.
Last edited by Gray Ghost GS; 08-26-2008 at 11:13 PM.
#3
Heel & Toe
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Thanks for the input. Ufortunateley as I said, I'm running on stock tires so I am running on the runflats. I plan on picking up a new set of wheels and tires strictly for racing use so those will be actual race tires but I will run at least one more event with the runflats. When I started my last race (my first time on a road course) I got tire pressure warnings so I ended up droping the cold pressure to about 28. Once heated up fully that raised them to 38-39. I've been hearing people suggest that it is a good idea to run the fron a lb or so higher to offset athe balance of the car. Does everyone agree with that or does anyone know of reasons that I shouldn't. One of the reasons that I'm doing all of this is because the real of my car felt really loose and felt like it wantet to slide out on me especially in the longer turns. I've already upgraded the sway bars so I'm sure that will help but I'm also hoping that the proper alignment and tire pressures will help too.
#4
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07
A better alignment will help on the overall handling, but like all tires the hotter they get while out on the course the greasier they can be. The suggestion of running lower pressure in the rear is good. I do this with my race tires as well. Too high of pressure in the rear can result in more oversteer. Too high of pressure in the front and you get more understeer. Adjusting pressures can help balance the car a bit. Try a couple lbs less in the rear. Adjust to different settings till you find a happy medium on handling that you like.
#5
Since you use your vette on both the street and track, a good compromise alignment would be: Front Camber: -1.2 deg Caster: 7 deg Toe: 0.0 in and Rear Camber: -0.8 deg and Toe: 0.0".
If you want a little more aggressive street/track alignment you could increase the negative camber on the Front to -1.6 deg and Rear -1.1 deg with Toe set at 1/8", but these specs will slowly wear the inside of your street tires
Since you're running street tires (hopefully NOT run flats), you may want to start the air pressure cold at 32 psi, but check their pressures hot as soon as you come off the track - should not exceed 40 psi. Hope this helps.
If you want a little more aggressive street/track alignment you could increase the negative camber on the Front to -1.6 deg and Rear -1.1 deg with Toe set at 1/8", but these specs will slowly wear the inside of your street tires
Since you're running street tires (hopefully NOT run flats), you may want to start the air pressure cold at 32 psi, but check their pressures hot as soon as you come off the track - should not exceed 40 psi. Hope this helps.
I will be running my first HPDE in October and am planning to use the Alignment specs/Tire Pressures suggested above.
#6
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Is there a reason everyone is so conservative with alignment settings? I daily drove a Subaru on track tires (RA-1) with 275 wide tires and -3.5 degrees camber in front for a whole summer and never had any inside tire wear (I ran 0 toe all around though)
Is there something fundamentally different that would cause inside tire wear in the front and more aggressive alignment settings? (I realize setting up the rear is a different animal)
Is there something fundamentally different that would cause inside tire wear in the front and more aggressive alignment settings? (I realize setting up the rear is a different animal)
Last edited by waktasz; 09-09-2008 at 09:37 AM.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the input. Ufortunateley as I said, I'm running on stock tires so I am running on the runflats. I plan on picking up a new set of wheels and tires strictly for racing use so those will be actual race tires but I will run at least one more event with the runflats. When I started my last race (my first time on a road course) I got tire pressure warnings so I ended up droping the cold pressure to about 28. Once heated up fully that raised them to 38-39. I've been hearing people suggest that it is a good idea to run the fron a lb or so higher to offset athe balance of the car. Does everyone agree with that or does anyone know of reasons that I shouldn't. One of the reasons that I'm doing all of this is because the real of my car felt really loose and felt like it wantet to slide out on me especially in the longer turns. I've already upgraded the sway bars so I'm sure that will help but I'm also hoping that the proper alignment and tire pressures will help too.
I autocrossed for a season with my Goodyear runflats. I have data from a datalogger that says the runflats lose grip rapidly above 38psi -- you can feel them get greasy. I would keep the hot pressures around 36psi F and 34psi R.
#8
Drifting
Numerous HPDE instructors have commented to me that the runflats are actually not a bad tire to learn on, and I agree. My OEMs got hard and greasy even before the tread went away, but they took me through the beginner and intermediate stages before doing so. In the advanced groups you'll need more stickum or you'll wear out your point-by arm (he says from experience). But don't rush it. I've recently graduated to 100 compounds myself (R888) and its a whole new (and fun) experience. I recommend you get to know the car on the track at the lower speeds the OEMs will enforce before you step up.
FM
FM