Camber Kit Install help
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Camber Kit Install help
Have you installed the Hardbar Camber & Stud kit on a C6 Z51?
Can you help with a few questions?
1. How many washers do you put where to achieve 2 - 2.5 deg negative camber?
2. Did your kit have "D" shaped plates? Was there anything etched on them? I have 12 square plated, 9 with 11.5 and 3 with 13.5 etched. Any ideas?
3. Do you happen to have any pics of the process?
Thanks.
Can you help with a few questions?
1. How many washers do you put where to achieve 2 - 2.5 deg negative camber?
2. Did your kit have "D" shaped plates? Was there anything etched on them? I have 12 square plated, 9 with 11.5 and 3 with 13.5 etched. Any ideas?
3. Do you happen to have any pics of the process?
Thanks.
#2
Safety Car
It's pretty self-explanatory once you're under the car. Odd to have an odd number of plates. The front will need 8 plates, the rear 4. The number of washers you need will be dependant on ride height. You will have to adjust toe after putting the camber kit on the car, you won't be wanting to drive it until you do.
The studs are easy to put in. The kit works really well. I like using the 10mm washers more than alignment shims.
The studs are easy to put in. The kit works really well. I like using the 10mm washers more than alignment shims.
#3
Burning Brakes
Have you installed the Hardbar Camber & Stud kit on a C6 Z51?
Can you help with a few questions?
1. How many washers do you put where to achieve 2 - 2.5 deg negative camber?
2. Did your kit have "D" shaped plates? Was there anything etched on them? I have 12 square plated, 9 with 11.5 and 3 with 13.5 etched. Any ideas?
3. Do you happen to have any pics of the process?
Thanks.
Can you help with a few questions?
1. How many washers do you put where to achieve 2 - 2.5 deg negative camber?
2. Did your kit have "D" shaped plates? Was there anything etched on them? I have 12 square plated, 9 with 11.5 and 3 with 13.5 etched. Any ideas?
3. Do you happen to have any pics of the process?
Thanks.
My kit did not have the D-shaped plates -- all 12 were rectangular and labeled 11.5mm. I called Gary to get some 13mm plates for the rear as I could not pry the rear a-arms enough to get the 11.5mm plates in.
I also had to cut the studs. Check if you can remove the upper a-arms in the front with the studs before you lock-tite them in. Cutting the studs on the bench is way easier than cutting them once they are lock-tited on the car. The issue I had was clearance to the steel bracket around the front shock. There is no such bracket on a Z06.
Also, with no washers on the left, I had to add washers after putting the A-arm on the studs because without them I ran out of threads on the studs and could not get the nuts tight.
I've run two autocrosses since installing the kit and I cannot believe the improvement in grip I got from the camber! I love camber!
Regards, Bert
#4
Safety Car
I used Gorilla Glue to lock the studs in. I didn't cut the studs, I don't think you need to, you just have to be patient and do a little dance with the dogbones to get everything happy. IIRC, I have 5 washers on all the front studs and I'm sitting at about -2deg.
Why not put the washers in front of the dogbone and then put the nuts on if you want to dogbones to be flush to the frame for max -ve camber?
Why not put the washers in front of the dogbone and then put the nuts on if you want to dogbones to be flush to the frame for max -ve camber?
#5
Don't forget you can get your castor back if you want it. I am a big fan of castor, so I first added three thin washers to the front, then two to the next stud back, then one, and none to the rear most stud. That gave me 6 deg castor, from there I set my camber to my preferences.