heavychevy

I have been wondering this for some time now, it seems as if the more negative camber I run on my car, the longer the braking zones get, how is this countered? It's fairly simple that the negative camber is a must for cornering and tire longevity to prevent cording, but it takes a serious toll on the straight line braking.


I see lots of people going and throwing tonsof neg. camber on their cars without the proper supporting adjustments. Race cars run -4 or so degrees, but they have HUG levels of downforce, whereas most of our street car do not, which would help braking considerably.


So what have you guys found that works in this category?

Tintin

Actually the neg camber thing causes the suspension to not compress as easily so there is not as abrupt a weight shift. I think you'll find that a more agressive pad will help slow you quickly. You are probably carrying more speed out of the corners than before due to better front end grip so that you need a better padski..

Socalrebell

-4 is crazy and only possible in a race car, for street/track -1.9 front/-1.3 rear is a happy medium. You will always lose braking traction since less tire is flush to the road, ABS helps flat spotting but it is a matter of physics.

John Shiels

run near 3 on front but have no problem braking. I think it would be hard to measure by SOTP.


Brake hard I would guess your contact patch is not affected that much.

heavychevy

I dont drive much on the street. Hardly at all in my track car. And many people run -3 + in this situation as I would too.


The thing is my pads have been upgraded, yes I am going faster out of corners and into the braking zones, but the braking G's are not the same, of course this is butt (and face) g meter.

I'm going to give it a go again soon to see if I may be not using the full pedal travel as I've done that before, and I have also been running tires to the raged edge which I know hurts as well, I'll try some new tires and pads, if that doesnt help, I'm trying some toe links as I'm also getting some uneven tire wear on one rear side.

Tintin

If you are using race pads, did you do the bed in procedure? Some will say that it is not needed but I differ... 6 moderate stops from 30 - 60 mph in 5 mph increments. Wait 2 hours, 1 moderate stop from 60 followed by 5 hard stops (on your abs!) and let them cool overnight. They last longer and are harder to glaze....

AU N EGL

New rubber helps. Older tires just dont stick as well in braking or corners. New brake pads and fresh brake fluid.

Never found a problem with lots of Negative camber in braking.
The uneven tread ware could be a few things, which I am sure you know.

check your alignment & Tire pressures. Road Atlanta can be very hard on the out side front tire, T1, T6 & T7 and very hard on the right side ront, T10.

Bill Hetzel

[QUOTE=heavychevy;1562704556]


I see lots of people going and throwing tonsof neg. camber on their cars without the proper supporting adjustments. Race cars run -4 or so degrees, but they have HUG levels of downforce, whereas most of our street car do not, which would help braking considerably.


A lot of racecars with downforce don't run that kind of camber. Most of the cars I set up run 1 to 1 1/2 degree in front and 1 to 3/4 in the rear.