Autocrossing & Roadracing Suspension Setup for Track Corvettes, Camber/Caster Adjustments, R-Compound Tires, Race Slicks, Tips on Driving Technique, Events, Results
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Boosted + Road Racing?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-08-2007, 10:45 PM
  #1  
xkilo16x
Pro
Thread Starter
 
xkilo16x's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 696
Received 132 Likes on 51 Posts

Default Boosted + Road Racing?

Is there anyway that a supercharged C6 can be taken through a couple laps on a road course effectively?

If so, what is needed to insure reliability and effectiveness?

Thanks
Old 11-08-2007, 11:00 PM
  #2  
John Shiels
Team Owner
 
John Shiels's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 1999
Location: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
Posts: 50,808
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

couple of laps or 20 minute standard HPDE session?
Old 11-08-2007, 11:08 PM
  #3  
xkilo16x
Pro
Thread Starter
 
xkilo16x's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 696
Received 132 Likes on 51 Posts

Default

HPDE sessions.
Old 11-08-2007, 11:23 PM
  #4  
John Shiels
Team Owner
 
John Shiels's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 1999
Location: Buy USA products! Check the label! Employ Americans
Posts: 50,808
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

no personal experience but from what I read here it seems to be a problem. It will also depend on how fast or hard you can or want to run the car.
Old 11-09-2007, 12:50 AM
  #5  
AVB
Safety Car
 
AVB's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: Hayward California
Posts: 3,932
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Bigger radiator, addition of oil cooler and most importantly, don't get a setup that restricts or blocks cool air to the radiator. Carefully done, HPDE's are more than doable.

Racing, however, means finishing and not just one but a season. Hard to justify when NA is as simple as it gets and isn't really a disadvantage.

Arnel
Old 11-09-2007, 01:03 AM
  #6  
mwvettec5
Burning Brakes
 
mwvettec5's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Omaha Nebraska
Posts: 858
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I ran an ECS built 383 motor with an ATI Procharger (BIG intercooler, alky injection etc) at the track and it got real hot, real fast (240 water & 290 oil).

Kept RPM (and boost) down, used higher gears - car was fast but I could only run 3-4 laps before motor started to get hot. This was on a 65 degree day, you can guess what it would be like in August !!!

There may be some tricks we didn't try but I'm pretty sure big horsepower supercharger setups aren't the "hot tip" for the road courses.

Old 11-09-2007, 01:06 AM
  #7  
waddisme
Safety Car
Support Corvetteforum!
 
waddisme's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Taylorsville North Carolina
Posts: 4,813
Received 45 Likes on 27 Posts

Default

I have done VIR 2x in mine. No issues yet other than driver sucks. There are 3 good straights there where the extra hp comes in handy. I don't think I have really pushed mine yet. I keep it floored down the back stretch and front stretch all the way thru 3rd and 4th. 2 weeks ago, with outside temps in the low 80s, my coolant never got above 214 and oil was 237 the only time I checked. I drove it hard for 4 sessions and then drove it 3 hours home - no problems. But like I said, I need to push it harder. From reading in this section, I must be pretty slow because I haven't even burned off my rubber boots on the brake calipers. But, no issues with sc so far!
Old 11-09-2007, 07:21 AM
  #8  
AU N EGL
Team Owner
 
AU N EGL's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

super charged and turbo charge big cube motors run into major heat issues, and burn though brakes.

a BBK with race pads, street pads wont do it.
Bigger radiator and extractor hood to get the heat out of the engine bay.
Oil cooler possible accu or dry sump
Possible Trans and diff coolers

Plus safety equipment.


Reliability and effectiveness has more to do with driving style then going fast.

Last edited by AU N EGL; 11-09-2007 at 07:24 AM.
Old 11-09-2007, 08:08 AM
  #9  
Wicked Weasel
Team Owner
 
Wicked Weasel's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 24,652
Received 297 Likes on 94 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05-'08

Default

what are you looking for?

If you are planing to do a day at WGI then watch your temps and when they get high either slow down and learn lines or come in.

Now if you plan to do this week after week like some of us then why go through all the added expenses of a SC when a NA car will give you just as much of a thrill on the track.

I loved my NA 460rwhp with 3.73 gears. With Dewitts radiator with oil cooler my engine temps were always low. It had enough power to get your heart pumping, but it was very controllable.
Old 11-09-2007, 07:48 PM
  #10  
C5inWV
Burning Brakes
 
C5inWV's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2002
Location: White Oak, GA
Posts: 949
Received 21 Likes on 21 Posts

Default

I have instructed in several cars that were supercharged or turbo's. The Vette w/ a centrifugal blower did very well at VIR, thought the driver admittedly was cautious.
Last May I had a Roush stage 3 Mustang (brand new.) It was also very capable, but threw the blower belt twice. I then rode in a Steeda 'Stang w/ a Vortec setup. We were well into the 160's on the long straight, but he too eventually threw the belt.
My advice is to take an extra belt or 2, and upgrade the brakes to the most you can find.
Old 11-09-2007, 08:56 PM
  #11  
2000BSME
Le Mans Master
 
2000BSME's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Posts: 9,996
Received 17 Likes on 14 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by AU N EGL
super charged and turbo charge big cube motors run into major heat issues, and burn though brakes.

a BBK with race pads, street pads wont do it.
Bigger radiator and extractor hood to get the heat out of the engine bay.
Oil cooler possible accu or dry sump
Possible Trans and diff coolers

Plus safety equipment.


Reliability and effectiveness has more to do with driving style then going fast.
my old instructor Bill Johnston was able to get into his trans temperature warning on just 6-7 laps of Barber in his stock 2004 z06.

To the OP; that is a costly and ultimately foolish endeavor. I wouldn't even try it, but hey, don't listen to me, I track an automatic! You will probably learn one way or another, I know I am.
Old 11-09-2007, 09:24 PM
  #12  
Rob's 73
Drifting

 
Rob's 73's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I ran my Z with a maggie at 7-8 pounds of boost on 70-80 degree days with no heat issues (dewitts rad and oil cooler combo plus meth). The main thing was that I was not ready for the power. Sure I could go fast in the straights but then I had to stand on the brakes to slow back down. Even for the small bends where you normally just tap the brakes to settle the car. I'm sure my lap times were actually slower. I melted my brake piston dust boots and my caliper slide pin dust boots. I was running brake ducts too. Don't jump up to 500 rwhp unless you are truly ready. Three track days with the maggie and I sold it.

FI = great street car
Old 11-09-2007, 09:41 PM
  #13  
xkilo16x
Pro
Thread Starter
 
xkilo16x's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 696
Received 132 Likes on 51 Posts

Default

So lets see.

If I do road race, I should:

1) Get the best brakes money can buy
2) Run low boost (5-6 psi)
3) Bring an extra belt or two
4) Dewitts radiator with oil cooler.

Anything else?
Old 11-09-2007, 09:55 PM
  #14  
AUTO_X_AL
Drifting
 
AUTO_X_AL's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: South Lyon MI
Posts: 1,729
Received 62 Likes on 52 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by xkilo16x
So lets see.

If I do road race, I should:

1) Get the best brakes money can buy
2) Run low boost (5-6 psi)
3) Bring an extra belt or two
4) Dewitts radiator with oil cooler.

Anything else?
You need to have spares for those brakes as well. You never know when something will fail. Extra fluids is also a good idea. Lots of money too.

Extra undies for you first "Off course excursion". Yea I said I was more careful than that too but when you suddenly realize your @$$ deep in pea gravel you'll be thankful you got spares!

Last edited by AUTO_X_AL; 11-09-2007 at 10:02 PM.
Old 11-10-2007, 12:08 AM
  #15  
JSTAN
Burning Brakes
 
JSTAN's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Holliston MA
Posts: 1,203
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

What kind of blower are you running?

I have done 2 HPDE's and I am running an 02 Z06 with an IC Maggie pulling 10#'s of boost.

Granted I live up in the northeast and the two times I ran the temps were between 50-70 F and 30-50 F.

My oil and coolant temps both runs were:

Outside Temp - OIL/Coolant
50-70 - 240/220
30-50 - 220/210
Old 11-10-2007, 07:16 AM
  #16  
Rob's 73
Drifting

 
Rob's 73's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JSTAN
What kind of blower are you running?

I have done 2 HPDE's and I am running an 02 Z06 with an IC Maggie pulling 10#'s of boost.

Granted I live up in the northeast and the two times I ran the temps were between 50-70 F and 30-50 F.

My oil and coolant temps both runs were:

Outside Temp - OIL/Coolant
50-70 - 240/220
30-50 - 220/210
Your call must pull like a freight train. I ran 9+ pounds on the street and the low end torque is amazing. Talk about having to ease in the gas out of the turns.

My other problem is since I was running the factory short block and fuel system (KB BAP) I was worried about the car blowing up. I was paying too much attention to my fuel pressure and AFR gauges.

Don't forget the Meth. That will ensure your IATs are kept in check.
Old 11-10-2007, 07:34 AM
  #17  
AU N EGL
Team Owner
 
AU N EGL's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

The best mods I have made to my 2003 were:

Oil cooler & accu-sump
Transmission cooler

Bar non those were the absolute best modifications. Not as sexy as HP but reliability and cooling


Then brake fluid, brake cooling, brake pads

Seat and harness

finally all the engine and HP modifications.

Not the order I did things, but hey . ...

Get notified of new replies

To Boosted + Road Racing?

Old 11-10-2007, 07:41 AM
  #18  
JSTAN
Burning Brakes
 
JSTAN's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Holliston MA
Posts: 1,203
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Rob's 73
Your call must pull like a freight train. I ran 9+ pounds on the street and the low end torque is amazing. Talk about having to ease in the gas out of the turns.

My other problem is since I was running the factory short block and fuel system (KB BAP) I was worried about the car blowing up. I was paying too much attention to my fuel pressure and AFR gauges.

Don't forget the Meth. That will ensure your IATs are kept in check.
Yeah the power is nice, but you need to be carefull coming out of a turn, to much gas and your sideways.
Old 11-10-2007, 07:50 AM
  #19  
AU N EGL
Team Owner
 
AU N EGL's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by xkilo16x
So lets see.

If I do road race, I should:

1) Get the best brakes money can buy
2) Run low boost (5-6 psi)
3) Bring an extra belt or two
4) Dewitts radiator with oil cooler.

Anything else?
Gets get on the track first to do HPDEs, and track events. Do as many events as possible. If you keep the ego and HP in check and just get out there, then you will see what your car and you need.

Not actual racings you mean? Most race orgainzations SCCA and NASA dont allow any super chargers or turbo charges on big cube motors. The few classes they do allow then your competing with old NASACar road race cars and Trans Am purpose built race cars.

1) The best brakes. Not necessary the best money can buy. There are some very expensive BBK kits that are just that, EXPENSIVE, look but dont stop real well, Stoptech ( LG or David Farmer) or Wilwood ( ECS or LG) would be very good choices. Then AP racing ( DRM ) or Alcon GT1s( $10K a corner ) (PM me where commissions should be sent . )

4) I would do a separate oil cooler & radiator not a IOC

Remember most road race circuits are not long straights, but skillful high speed tight corners connected with short straights. AND ON OCCASION a longer straight, which you might hit redline in 4th gear.

You will spend most of your time in 3rd gear, 3000 to redline, some time in 4th gear 3000 to 5000 and occasionally redline. an some very tight slow corners down to 2nd gear.

Almost never in 5th gear, unless you are short shifting to keep the engine cooler, running 3.90s or 4.10s or on some very very long straights, Pocono, Road America, Sebring, occasionally at Road Atlanta Back straight.

When the VA track ( Dragons Ridge ) is finished sometime in '08, that is only a 2 mile track, not likely to be a fast highs speed track. ( Alan Wilson design )

The NJ track should also be finished in '08 ( owned Harvey from VIR) Not seen any designs

Last edited by AU N EGL; 11-10-2007 at 07:53 AM.
Old 11-11-2007, 08:56 AM
  #20  
LOS ANGELES PI
Melting Slicks
 
LOS ANGELES PI's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,064
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by AUTO_X_AL

Extra undies for you first "Off course excursion"; when you suddenly realize your @$$ deep in pea gravel you'll be thankful you got spares!
That one hit home.

Last fall at Spring Mountain a guy I knew with a 750 RWHP Forced induction went past me out of turn 7 like a lightening bolt and down the straight to #8.

Only problem was he couldnt turn. Looked like a mini Hiroshima.

He did run both days but was sucking coolant at the end as his heads were lifting off the block.


Quick Reply: Boosted + Road Racing?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:15 AM.