C4 track car progress report... dash
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
C4 track car progress report... dash
I haven't posted on this corvette forum much since the addition of ads in the first post, but I thought a few of you guys might like to see this.
Dash face is made out of 1/8" thick aluminum and was cut out on a waterjet cutter. It's held up with two triangle brackets in the lower center and two L-brackets on either end.
Dash top is a 84-89 C4 dash cap. It's made of very thin plastic and weighs less than two pounds. It has an aluminum bar riveted under it to strengthen it and is held to the face with five 1/4 turn fasteners. It's also wedged in under the windshield using a very light weatherstripping, to hold the front steady.
I still need to find something to cover the speaker holes. This set up should be much lighter than the factory set up, and give me plenty of room behind it. After I took these pics, I mounted the ALDL just to the right of the steering column, and mounted the two fuse & relay boxes under the right side of the dash.
Whatcha think?
#3
Tech Contributor
Looking forward to seeing the completed project.
#5
Safety Car
Looks great.
A couple of random thoughts:
If you want to save a little weight you can get a lighter steel colum to replace your factory one for about $35 at Southwestspeed.com. Or you can get the collapsable version for $70. I just cut the splined end off of my factory column and welded it to the new one so it mated easily with the rack.
Looks like you have a painless (or equivalent) harness. I moved all of mine from the engine compartment to the passenger area up under the dash. It's a little more accessable and better protected, with a very minor improvement on weight distribution
Consider cutting another hole closer to the tach/ speedo so both your water temp and oil temp are closer to your eyes. I have the same configuration as you with OP, OT, and WT off to the right and it's a little harder to see quickly on track. I'm going to move OT and WT more into my line of sight. I guess I'll put a clock in the opening
Any progress on the ABS issue? I'm going to try to piece together one from a pre-ASP car and make it work over the winter.
A couple of random thoughts:
If you want to save a little weight you can get a lighter steel colum to replace your factory one for about $35 at Southwestspeed.com. Or you can get the collapsable version for $70. I just cut the splined end off of my factory column and welded it to the new one so it mated easily with the rack.
Looks like you have a painless (or equivalent) harness. I moved all of mine from the engine compartment to the passenger area up under the dash. It's a little more accessable and better protected, with a very minor improvement on weight distribution
Consider cutting another hole closer to the tach/ speedo so both your water temp and oil temp are closer to your eyes. I have the same configuration as you with OP, OT, and WT off to the right and it's a little harder to see quickly on track. I'm going to move OT and WT more into my line of sight. I guess I'll put a clock in the opening
Any progress on the ABS issue? I'm going to try to piece together one from a pre-ASP car and make it work over the winter.
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia Beach
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Is that a kit or did you think it up and do it yourself? Either way it looks great. If it were me I'd go Porschesque w/ a large tach right in the middle of my viewing area, smaller speedo to the right, and water/oil/oil pressure to the left.
#7
Race Director
Looks good! Are you going to make door panels as well?
For the speaker holes you could use some plastic and paint it black, then glue it in.
For the speaker holes you could use some plastic and paint it black, then glue it in.
#8
Melting Slicks
Looks great.
A couple of random thoughts:
If you want to save a little weight you can get a lighter steel colum to replace your factory one for about $35 at Southwestspeed.com. Or you can get the collapsable version for $70. I just cut the splined end off of my factory column and welded it to the new one so it mated easily with the rack.
A couple of random thoughts:
If you want to save a little weight you can get a lighter steel colum to replace your factory one for about $35 at Southwestspeed.com. Or you can get the collapsable version for $70. I just cut the splined end off of my factory column and welded it to the new one so it mated easily with the rack.
#9
Race Director
Member Since: May 2000
Location: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
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Looks good Steven. I would second the recomendation of a collapsable column with a wheel that can be removed. Makes getting in and out of the car much easier after a cage goes in.
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Looks great.
If you want to save a little weight you can get a lighter steel colum to replace your factory one for about $35 at Southwestspeed.com. Or you can get the collapsable version for $70. I just cut the splined end off of my factory column and welded it to the new one so it mated easily with the rack.
If you want to save a little weight you can get a lighter steel colum to replace your factory one for about $35 at Southwestspeed.com. Or you can get the collapsable version for $70. I just cut the splined end off of my factory column and welded it to the new one so it mated easily with the rack.
I don't know anything about racing columns and would be most appreciative of any info or write up on how to make on. Pics of your or anyone elses would be great too.
Looks great.
Consider cutting another hole closer to the tach/ speedo so both your water temp and oil temp are closer to your eyes. I have the same configuration as you with OP, OT, and WT off to the right and it's a little harder to see quickly on track. I'm going to move OT and WT more into my line of sight. I guess I'll put a clock in the opening.
Consider cutting another hole closer to the tach/ speedo so both your water temp and oil temp are closer to your eyes. I have the same configuration as you with OP, OT, and WT off to the right and it's a little harder to see quickly on track. I'm going to move OT and WT more into my line of sight. I guess I'll put a clock in the opening.
You could add a wide band in your extra hole.
ME TOO! This car has not moved in 14 months.
I'm using 2 5/8 gauges. I couldn't have fit all three to the left of the column. I purposely kept the edges gauge & switch free to allow room for the roll bar when it goes in. It will probably come up behind the dash face and through the top cap.
No. The roll bar will be nascar style and extend into the empty door shells.
Last edited by ZBRA; 11-05-2007 at 09:22 PM.
#11
Safety Car
Here's as much as I can remember...I did this a few years back. The part numbers are from southwestspeed.com:
Starting at the bottom, the collapsable column (150-286, $102) goes through the firewall bearing (150-290, $12)
The collapsable shaft is fairly short, so I bought a regular one to extend it (150-280, $10). I welded a plate to the factory column support and threaded on a bearing in an adjustable rod end. I slid the extended shaft through it. I couldn't find the PN for the bearing, but it's not an uncommon part.
Then I welded the mandril to the end of the column (I think it came with the hub but not sure)
I bought a Sparco wheel and bolted a quick disconnect hub to it (150-345, $25)
Starting at the bottom, the collapsable column (150-286, $102) goes through the firewall bearing (150-290, $12)
The collapsable shaft is fairly short, so I bought a regular one to extend it (150-280, $10). I welded a plate to the factory column support and threaded on a bearing in an adjustable rod end. I slid the extended shaft through it. I couldn't find the PN for the bearing, but it's not an uncommon part.
Then I welded the mandril to the end of the column (I think it came with the hub but not sure)
I bought a Sparco wheel and bolted a quick disconnect hub to it (150-345, $25)
#12
Safety Car
I'm hoping to get an ABS system assembled, the lockup is killing me. Although the calipers Jeff is going to sell me for the rear are going to help some. I just need to remember to call:o
Here is the view through the wheel - no problem to see the guages. The speedo isn't actually hooked up to anything, i should move something else there. I think my guages are smaller than yours, though.
Here is the view through the wheel - no problem to see the guages. The speedo isn't actually hooked up to anything, i should move something else there. I think my guages are smaller than yours, though.
Last edited by ScaryFast; 11-05-2007 at 10:21 PM.
#15
Safety Car
As for pics at the rack...not sure if you'll be able to see well in there. I'll try, but not for a few days. I'm headed out of town this afternoon.
I should be able to get them by Saturday.
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#18
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I pulled my old column out. I'm curious how I could just attach the new shaft under the hood right where it comes out of the firewall (like OEM). The factory intermediate shaft that runs from the steering column to the rack looks like a light weight and quality piece.