Blorton

I'm at 90k on my stock internals LS1 and am thinking about a revvable displacement increase as part of an engine refresh.

Any suggestions? For now, this is still a daily driver that will be seeing track days. I was thinking something along the lines of a bored LS2, but for obvious reasons, want to stay away from running a max effort stroker.

Naturally, I'm looking to keep the costs down as well. No C5-R engines for me.

Thanks,
Dan

AU N EGL

LS3 short block or even a create motor.

John Shiels

then do the heads and a cam

AU N EGL

Giddy UP

John Shiels

before H+C do a big radiator and possibly some tranny and diff coolers if you like to really run hard. LG has some big numbers from cam only on LS3.

When I did mine 5+- years ago I had the budget to look at also. Big motors then were 25-30. I decided to just go H&C, coolers, and then aero. I have been very pleased with the car and the performance is great. Vette Doctors said do you want a 30,000 motor to turn to junk with one bad shift? Car has still dynoed within 2-3 hp of original Vette Doctor dyno at 3 different locations with near 5,000+- so it has held up well after 6,000+ track miles it now has.

davidfarmer

My world challenge engines were always restricted by rules, but the OEM crank is good. Dropping in some forged rods and pistons will give you a solid engine capable of running 7500rpm pretty reliably. However, if you don't mind keeping the revs at 6900rpm, the bottom end will likely be fine in an LS2/LS3 shortblock with a nice cam and heads. You should easily be able to hit 500+hp, which is plenty. Any more power, and you will just be toasting brakes unless you lighten the car up a lot.

ghoffman

It is all about budget, an LS6 is about $7K, an LS7 is about $12.5K then you have a dry sump, and a 7100 redline.

96CollectorSport

The LS3 is a great package, but it's not a direct drop in, it has a 58 tooth reluctor wheel so you would either have to replace the reluctor wheel with a 24 tooth or run a newer ECM.
So if you have to crack the engine open anyway, you may as well look at an upgraded crank with the correct reluctor wheel. The LS3/L92 blocks are going to be less expensive than the LS2 blocks, because they are used in the truck lines, many of the aftermarket guys are still working on there LS3/L92 packages so it will be a little while before you see them out there.
If you are mainly going to be tracking the car working with someone like DRM or LG may be a good idea, it may cost a little more then some of the other builders, but they know how to make a motor last in our kinds of conditions.
Also keep an eye on Scoggin Dickey, typically if GM comes out with it they will have it first.
http://www.sdparts.com/categories/LS...rformance.aspx

Blorton

Thanks for all the responses!

Yes, I have no problems keeping revs under 6900 and an upgraded radiator will be going in the car before next summer anyway. I hadn't thought of the tranny cooler, but will add that in when the tranny and rear get redone.

Yea, I'm at the point now with the mods on the car that I'm looking hard at a set of heads. With the long term picture in mind, I'm thinking just hold off and get ones to match the bore increase.

The 402 packages look interesting. I like the idea of a square 4.0" x 4.0" setup. If it wasn't for that whole slowing down and turning business, I'd love to go with one of the gonzo iron block lsx buildups some of the ls1tech guys are doing. I'm such a ho for torque....

Thanks again,
Dan

AU N EGL

Those are drag / street race engines. Not sure how seriously they well will hold up on a road course.

John Shiels

once you crack the motor you will be going for more coin. So LS3 will cost you a bunch. May as well go 402 on an LS6 block that seems to be the biggest to be dependable. Nothing is cheap by a good builder. BUDGET is the word how much do you want to spend. Motors. cooling, brakes, brake ducts, headers, air intake and so on. Are you doing the work or someone else going to do it all?

Bink

Katech value 427. Built by Katech it should last.


See link->http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=548511

AU N EGL

Or Katech's new 500 ci

Katech Performance 8.2L C6RS Engine Specifications

Engine: Katech Performance 8.2L C6RS
Type/Layout: 90 degree V8
Valvetrain Configuration: Pushrod over head valves, 2 per cylinder
Displacement: 8.2 Liter (500 cubic inch)
Bore x Stroke: 106.8 x 114.3 mm (4.205 x 4.500 inch)
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
Horsepower: 600 bhp @ 5800 rpm
Bhp/Liter: 73.2
Torque: 600 lbs.-ft. @ 4600 rpm
Redline: 6200 rpm
Fuel Injection: Sequential port injection
Recommended Fuel: Premium unleaded


Component Features:

Block: 6061-T61 billet aluminum
Cylinder bores: Liner-less Nicom coated parent aluminum
Main bearing caps: Billet steel
Cylinder head: LS7 production sand cast aluminum
Crankshaft: Forged 4340 steel
Connecting rods: Forged steel, special alloy
Pistons: Forged 4032 aluminum

Blorton

Thanks, Bink. I bumped the thread.

Who here wouldn't love one of their 8K engines to thrash? Whoowee!

Dan

John Shiels

how much is that Tom?


600 lb ft good bye Hoosiers

AU N EGL

Jason did not say.

They will announce the price and post dyno graphs, plus non emission legal cam options at SEMA.

Special made Warhwrk block IRC for Katech.

Not only good by to hoosiers, but transmission, diff and out put shafts and . . . . . .

96CollectorSport

When it comes to racing engines you have to look at it like this.

Power

Reliability

Cheap

You can only have two out of the three.

varkwso

If you are making a "track dawg" build the engine you want to. If you are planning on any "competition" you will need to see what the rules do to you for motor mods.

When I detonated my 130000 mile LS1 I bought a LS6 block and bottom end (used)...

tcmc5

Lingenfelter has a nice menu. They'll build you a long block if you like.
http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/c56.html

AU N EGL

This needs repeating.

Power + Reliability is NOT CHEAP

Reliability + Cheap has no power

Power + Cheap is not reliable