FOLDNTOP

I broke on of the upper control arm threaded inserts and it is now loose in the frame?? Anyone have this problem and is there a fix for this??

I had unbolted the upper contol arm to let it down to remove the front spring. Found out I have to release the lower ball joint as I could not get the spring out. I think I'm doing this wrong so advice in this area would also be appreciated.

Pressing problem is the inserts. I am told someone makes an upper contol arm stud kit would this solve my problem??? Anyone know about this???

NoOne

I just re-read your post....you broke the insert? I don't know what it looks like behind the wheel liner,do you have a pic?

Stud kit won't help, it screws into the same piece as the bolt.

If I remember correctly you do not need to remove the lower ball joint to get the spring off, just taking the uppers off and use a bottle jack to raise up the lower using the lower ball joint as a raise point. You will need to disconnect the sway bar to make the job easier.

Seperating the LBJ is a PITA but if you use the cheapo Autozone(Canadian Tire) Pitman arm seperator it works great. The ball joint seperators don't fit around the knuckle but the pitman arm ones do just fine. If your careful you won't damage the boots at all.

FOLDNTOP

The problem insert broke free and can't remove bolt.

Rear holes drivers side bolts removed

Close up of inserts on passenger side


I need to replace the insert on the drivers side.

Shocks have been removed. I am installing 2004 Z06 Springs shocks and sway bars and this is one of those PIA delays.

Anyone had this problem???

AMERICANMUSL

Weld it up, tap it out!

NoOne

Ouch....btw from the pic of the broken you need to support the suspension. From the way the bushing is deflected looks like you just have it hanging there.

Put a bottle jack under the ball joint or the bottom of the spring and jack it up a bit to take all the weight off of the upper control arm.

I can't image how that broke...is the frame steel or aluminum?

Does it move in and out or just spin?

Have to see what it looks like on the other end. Hopefully its like a weldnut and its an insert and welded on the other side. You can just weld it up again.

I'm sure one of the shops like DRM or LG has taken the cars down to the point where the entire frame is exposed to see what it looks like.

LOS ANGELES PI

I think that is going to be the fix.

I have always worried about those threaded points in the frame, last time I had my A arms out, I ran a thread chaser through just to clean up the threads to avoid problems later. Its a 10 x 1.25 if I remem correctly.

Contact Gary Hoffman at HArdbar USA. He is a forum vendor and he does sell the best stud kit going. He really knows his chit. So will have a remedy for you. Go slow........

Good luck.

John Shiels

guess if you can't weld you will need a mobile service. I wouldn't weld it all up but do somethng from the sides trough some openings and then close them up.

mgarfias

That insert is a nutsert, so its not actually part of the frame. Hardbar's stud kit won't fix that - you'll need to remove that insert and replace it.

The trouble is that the insert expands the frame a bit when it is installed. I don't know if simply replacing it will work, but its worth a shot.

You'll need a nutsert install kit and STEEL inserts, not aluminum.

This is why I dropped studs into mine when I did the bushings (and why Hoffman now sells a stud kit).

Solofast

nasty problem...

Probably need to get out the ole die grinder....

grind off the head of the bolt (and make sure you don't loose the bolt and insert back into the frame)... and then weld the insert back onto the frame with a bead around the edge, then unscrew what is left of the bolt and chase the threads...

FOLDNTOP

It's a 10X1.5 and I have cleaned the treads on the others. Stupid move on my part. PM'd Gary and playing telephone tag now. Thanks.

fatbillybob

grind head off bolt or:

get lucky by:
1) put other end back in to take pressure off the stuck end
2 pry on the arm to put frictional pressure on the spinning nutsert against the frame.
3) put max air pressure in your airgun in reverse...pray alot and then pulse it quickly with the airgun.

If you are really lucky it will come out. Then stud it! or use antirotational nutsert of haigh enough grade. There are grade 8 nutserts made. See "aircraft spruce and specialty" or mcmaster carr catalog

LOS ANGELES PI

Which part?

davidfarmer

You have two options, find a local body shop that has a metric "nutsert" kit. They can simply drill out your nutsert, and install a new one. They go in a bit like pop-rivets.

The other option (which I have done a couple of times) is cut a hole one the inside of the frame (facing the engine) for access, and put nuts and washers on the backside of the frame. This method is actually stronger, as the nutserts aren't very strong. They are great for assembly at bowling green, but the tend to get damaged very easily.

***If anybody has the nutsert kit and metric nutserts, I'd love to borrow it****

trackboss

I didn't know they were inserts on those holes as I have never looked at them carefully, but the strongest inserts that I know of are timeserts. Drill out the old one with the recomended size bit that is needed to install the new one. If you go bigger the new one won't grab.

http://www.timesert.com/

-V

FOLDNTOP

Breaking the nutset loose.

mgarfias

Timesert is more like a heli-coil than a nutsert. Its made to replace damaged threads in a solid chunk of metal. The inserts in the car are to add threads to sheet metal.

mgarfias

David -

Check here:
http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0088450
M10x1.5 nutserts. Just buy the installation tool with a pack of them. No need for a whole other nutsert gizmo.

FOLDNTOP

Thanks this looks like the closest thing to whats in there. I have broken the insert loose and thus I may need to install an oversize one. I will call the supplier in the morning... thanks again...Jim

DALE C

They are not just a nutsert "clamped" to the frame rail. There is a backing block on the back side of the frame rail. The frame is way to thin to just crimp a nutsert in. Mine were pulled out when I wrecked the race car. I took a 1/2 inch thick piece of bar stock and tapped it on the mill cut a slot for it and welded it to the frame rail.
If you put studs in be careful what you use most metric "studs" are realy set screws. You need to put something in that has at least a 10.9rateing and you should really try to keep the threads out of shear. I am sure the set Hardbar sells are nice I have never seen anything bad come from Gary.

mgarfias

Except that nutserts are made for exactly this sort of a job. Seriously. They are for adding a threaded insert into sheet metal that isn't thick enough to support the threads otherwise. They swage themselves into the sheet metal and expand the insert into the sheet.

Thats a repair that results in a better part than the factory nutserts.

I have no idea what Gary sells for his stud kit. My studs were custom made ARP deals M10x1.5 on the frame side, and M10x1.75 on the arm side. Its amazing what ARP is able to do sometimes.