What can you do to an LS6 for T1?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
What can you do to an LS6 for T1?
My motor (stock) dynoed (at 34K miles) at 362 rwhp and 343 rwt. I hear that T1 prepped engines are around 390. Yet, there are strict regulations in the rulebook on what one can do to the car. I know that the exhaust system can be straight pipes, from the manifolds back, but headers are not allowed. Intake systems cannot really be tampered with. Cams have strict regulations too.
So what do you change to make that sort of power?
What reliability modifications are made to improve your chances of finishing a race?
So what do you change to make that sort of power?
What reliability modifications are made to improve your chances of finishing a race?
#2
Team Owner
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The engine, everything inside the engine, air box and headers must be stock. You can run 100 octane fuel.
stock 243 heads, stock Z06 cam etc.
after the Heads, straight pipes, no cats or mufflers.
Most of the LS6 in T1 tune run 380-385 rwhp
after the engine, T1 springs and bars, shocks are now open.
Hoosier A6s seem to be the tire. 17" wheels 17x315/35 on all four corners.
stock 243 heads, stock Z06 cam etc.
after the Heads, straight pipes, no cats or mufflers.
Most of the LS6 in T1 tune run 380-385 rwhp
after the engine, T1 springs and bars, shocks are now open.
Hoosier A6s seem to be the tire. 17" wheels 17x315/35 on all four corners.
Last edited by AU N EGL; 10-27-2007 at 11:50 AM.
#3
Melting Slicks
you tune them to within an inch of their lives. 100 octane and lots of timing i'd guess.
also theyre allowed to have blueprinted engines. So they can get LS6's that have been put together to ridiculous tolerances.
also theyre allowed to have blueprinted engines. So they can get LS6's that have been put together to ridiculous tolerances.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ah, so disassemble the engine, mate all the parts perfectly and put it back? Stock manifolds are allowed, but can those be flowed or modified? Polished/modded throttle bodies or intake manifolds?
#5
Melting Slicks
#7
Melting Slicks
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I have seen the teardown of 2 Runoff winners (2004 and 2005 - Heinricy-driven cars). Everything was as required. No surprises.
In T1 you can run any engine control computer as long as it fits in the original computer housing. There is a lot of tuning knowhow used in T1 cars burning 100 octane gas.
No modifications of any kind are allowed on manifolds (intake or exhaust).
Tolerances on "blueprinted" engines must be within manufacturer-allowed specifications.
Frank Gonzalez
In T1 you can run any engine control computer as long as it fits in the original computer housing. There is a lot of tuning knowhow used in T1 cars burning 100 octane gas.
No modifications of any kind are allowed on manifolds (intake or exhaust).
Tolerances on "blueprinted" engines must be within manufacturer-allowed specifications.
Frank Gonzalez
Last edited by gonzalezfj; 10-27-2007 at 01:43 PM.
#10
Intermediate
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If you want a T1 LS6 engine that already produces dyno power close to the numbers that Chris mentioned then all you have to do is contact me and buy one of three LS6 engines I have. If you are interested just pm me and we can make a deal. Matter of fact I think I'd let you have all three for a sweet deal. I'm going to use my C5 Z06 as my practice car at the Autobahn and will be upgrading the brakes and probably juicing my motor so I can hang with the GT3 boys.
Peace
AL
Peace
AL
#11
Melting Slicks
I say we get one builder to build all the T1 motors and SEAL them just like the old challenge cars in the 80's. Even the computor gets sealed too.
I think you would see alot of new front runners you have never heard of before.
Maybe do a portable dyno at the track and do some power to weight ratio's like NASA does. That would stirr some CHIT up!
Quine
I think you would see alot of new front runners you have never heard of before.
Maybe do a portable dyno at the track and do some power to weight ratio's like NASA does. That would stirr some CHIT up!
Quine
#13
Race Director
well, if you know the right people, you can get the cam/sprocket/chain combinations that give the best power (retard timing=more high rpm oomph). Blueprinting always helps.
Tuning is big too, and as said, 100 octane is great if you can afford it week after week.
SCCA has no way of montoring things strictly enough, and so everybody stretches the rules as far as they are comfortable. I prefer NASA's way of doing things, all based on power-to-weight ratio at the rear wheel. If the winner is cheating, he'll get kicked out (as happened at the Nationals this year)
Tuning is big too, and as said, 100 octane is great if you can afford it week after week.
SCCA has no way of montoring things strictly enough, and so everybody stretches the rules as far as they are comfortable. I prefer NASA's way of doing things, all based on power-to-weight ratio at the rear wheel. If the winner is cheating, he'll get kicked out (as happened at the Nationals this year)
#14
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How did this subject turn from what can be done to get more legal hp out of a motor... to cheating? My theory is that if you gotta cheat then you get to wake up every morning for the rest of your life knowing you are a phony. Definitely not my idea of enhancing the journey.
Peace
AL
Peace
AL
#15
Le Mans Master
How did this subject turn from what can be done to get more legal hp out of a motor... to cheating? My theory is that if you gotta cheat then you get to wake up every morning for the rest of your life knowing you are a phony. Definitely not my idea of enhancing the journey.
Peace
AL
Peace
AL
There are always rumors of what "so and so's" car is making. I have heard that the better T1 LS6s are making 390-395 RWHP since we can remove the catalytic convertors. It makes sense to me 'cause the best were making 378-380 before the cats were removed and gained 12-15 seems resonable to me.
Well, I asked a racer this weekend how much power his KS6 made...397 RWHP. Ouch. It was balanced and blueprinted and tuned...and he swore it was legal.
He said B&Bing made a big difference, much more than we had been led to believe in the past.
#16
That is basically my take it, especially in amateur racing. With no prize money you are racing for a $5 trophy and a sense of accomplishment, if you cheat you are just racing for a $5 trophy!
I will be doing about the same thing with my T1 car, strip as much weight out of it as I can, give it a little more power, put some real brakes on and run ITE, ST1/2 and SP and maybe BP so I can keep my Nat. lic.
Scott
#17
That is basically my take it, especially in amateur racing. With no prize money you are racing for a $5 trophy and a sense of accomplishment, if you cheat you are just racing for a $5 trophy!
I will be doing about the same thing with my T1 car, strip as much weight out of it as I can, give it a little more power, put some real brakes on and run ITE, ST1/2 and SP and maybe BP so I can keep my Nat. lic.
Scott
I will be doing about the same thing with my T1 car, strip as much weight out of it as I can, give it a little more power, put some real brakes on and run ITE, ST1/2 and SP and maybe BP so I can keep my Nat. lic.
Scott
You can find many liars at a racetracks, fishing tournaments, & golf courses but I'm sure that it doesn't apply to anyone here.
#19
Race Director
Hehehe...........rules.......
Cheaters get caught all the time in every other competitive sport.......usually cuase they can't keep their mouth shut
Cheaters get caught all the time in every other competitive sport.......usually cuase they can't keep their mouth shut
#20
Melting Slicks
Most of the T1 engines are somewhere in the range of 375-395. The top ones are using 100 octane and tuned right at the edge. You can probably spend a ton more and get a few more ponies, but if you do, you've pulled the pin on the grenade and it's just a matter of time before it goes off.
Get a good crate engine, put a good exhaust on there, tune it with 100 octane and it'll last forever. 20 HP is not going to get you more than about .25 per lap...if that. Spend your money on seat time and not the drive line.
Get a good crate engine, put a good exhaust on there, tune it with 100 octane and it'll last forever. 20 HP is not going to get you more than about .25 per lap...if that. Spend your money on seat time and not the drive line.