Lost Power steering assist in the C4.....
10-20-2007, 01:56 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Lost Power steering assist in the C4.....
The problem is back!
After some trouble free months I have again a very big leak in the connection between the PS Pump and PS pressure hose. I imagine that the problem must be the same, a broken O ring and a fissure in the metal part of the hose.
I changed to a Turn One PS Pump which has worked great in the last Track days. But the hose that was replaced at the same time and is made by Edelmann I believe has failed prematurely.
Please suggest a more reliable Pressure hose and who sells them.
By the way it is a 94 Vette and it does have a power steering cooler.
I heard about DR hose but have not found one.
Thanks for the advise.
Roberto
By the way I need to fix this urgently because I have an event coming real soon!
After some trouble free months I have again a very big leak in the connection between the PS Pump and PS pressure hose. I imagine that the problem must be the same, a broken O ring and a fissure in the metal part of the hose.
I changed to a Turn One PS Pump which has worked great in the last Track days. But the hose that was replaced at the same time and is made by Edelmann I believe has failed prematurely.
Please suggest a more reliable Pressure hose and who sells them.
By the way it is a 94 Vette and it does have a power steering cooler.
I heard about DR hose but have not found one.
Thanks for the advise.
Roberto
By the way I need to fix this urgently because I have an event coming real soon!
10-21-2007, 08:38 AM
#3
Instructor
I have the Doug Rippie hose. I remember it was extremely difficult to find it on their website and now I can't find it at all.
Contact them at dougrippie.com. If they have stopped selling it, pm me and I can provide more details.
Contact them at dougrippie.com. If they have stopped selling it, pm me and I can provide more details.
10-22-2007, 10:52 AM
#4
Safety Car
It's $99 and is absoulutely necessary if you track a C4...
10-22-2007, 11:28 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you guys.
I contacted Randy and he told me that they still have them, so I will try to purchase one and install it for no more steering related problems.
( I hope!)
I contacted Randy and he told me that they still have them, so I will try to purchase one and install it for no more steering related problems.
( I hope!)
10-22-2007, 01:36 PM
#6
Advanced
Member Since: Oct 2004
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I bought some Earl's fittings and teflon hose and made my own after the second time my '92's OE-style hose put me back on the trailer. I just added an adel clamp to brace it against the idler pulley bracket.
Chuck
Chuck
10-22-2007, 06:55 PM
#7
Instructor
My hose did not come with install instructions. It will not work routing the same as the OEM hose. It has to be mounted through the opening through the serpentine belt. I was a little uncomfortable with this but mine has worked fine that way for a year.
10-22-2007, 10:57 PM
#8
Drifting
My 96 GS popped it's first hose at Grattan during it's 4th season. The tube clamp tying the tube to the A/C bracket fatigued and broke allowing the tube to fail at the pump. Two more popped hoses and I switched to the DRM hose which was routed thru the serpentine belt. The LT4 hose is different than the LT1 and is stronger because it is clamped. You cannot buy a new clamp anywwhere that I could find.
The DRM hose held and then I broke two steel lines on the rack. 5 total failures in one season. I sold the car to someone who doesn't track the car...
Looking back on it, I'm pretty sure this was all caused by a suction leak at high RPM which causes cavitation in the pump and shock waves that break the weakest link. If you break another try a vacuum check on PS system.
The DRM hose held and then I broke two steel lines on the rack. 5 total failures in one season. I sold the car to someone who doesn't track the car...
Looking back on it, I'm pretty sure this was all caused by a suction leak at high RPM which causes cavitation in the pump and shock waves that break the weakest link. If you break another try a vacuum check on PS system.
10-23-2007, 08:25 AM
#9
Pro
Another suggestion - check your motor mounts. I broke several hoses on my 96 LT4 before figuring out the left mount was broken, allowing the motor to torque up out of the frame enough to stress/crack the hose (where it runs below the crossmember).
10-23-2007, 11:25 AM
#10
Safety Car
9000 track miles on my LT4, never broke a PS hose. although with all the hub-bub around here, I put on the DRM hose 3000 track miles ago.
and a turn 1 pump too. seems pretty bullet proof.
and a turn 1 pump too. seems pretty bullet proof.
10-23-2007, 11:33 AM
#11
Safety Car
I didn't route mine through the belt. Not sure what you guys mean by this...
It is a PITA to install it (very limited space in there). It's easier with the PS pump off, which only entails removing the belt and 4 bolts.
I can take a picture of my routing if you have issues.
I'd check the other things as suggested (motor mounts), but still put on the new hose, it's about the same price as the stock replacement, so why not?
It is a PITA to install it (very limited space in there). It's easier with the PS pump off, which only entails removing the belt and 4 bolts.
I can take a picture of my routing if you have issues.
I'd check the other things as suggested (motor mounts), but still put on the new hose, it's about the same price as the stock replacement, so why not?
10-23-2007, 11:34 AM
#12
Safety Car
Are you running R tires? I assume the increased grip is what does the job on the factory PS system.
10-23-2007, 11:41 AM
#13
Safety Car
My DRM hose is just behind the belt. maybe a 1/2" at the most. It's a tight fit. I don't see how you can run it through the belt without removing the hose for every belt change ????
and I run Kumho VR's, Hooisers A6's, which I attribute to my bearing problems. Actually Timken is the bearing problem. Since I stay away from autozone /Timken, my bearings have been lasting longer.
and I run Kumho VR's, Hooisers A6's, which I attribute to my bearing problems. Actually Timken is the bearing problem. Since I stay away from autozone /Timken, my bearings have been lasting longer.
10-23-2007, 12:13 PM
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
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Have any of you moved the reservior?
I'm sick of mine vomitting all over my engine.
I pop the hood after a run and it looks like I'm on fire!
I'm sick of mine vomitting all over my engine.
I pop the hood after a run and it looks like I'm on fire!
10-23-2007, 02:40 PM
#15
Safety Car
My buddy does on his F-body, it's actually caught on fire at the track...
That was funny. For us, anyway...not for him.
10-23-2007, 04:31 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My DRM hose is just behind the belt. maybe a 1/2" at the most. It's a tight fit. I don't see how you can run it through the belt without removing the hose for every belt change ????
and I run Kumho VR's, Hooisers A6's, which I attribute to my bearing problems. Actually Timken is the bearing problem. Since I stay away from autozone /Timken, my bearings have been lasting longer.
and I run Kumho VR's, Hooisers A6's, which I attribute to my bearing problems. Actually Timken is the bearing problem. Since I stay away from autozone /Timken, my bearings have been lasting longer.
That way the steel tubing is bent in a special way to avoid making contact with pulleys and the serpentine belt.
Is the DRM hose a direct fit or is a hose that needs special modifications and get aditional clamps to keep it in place.
Thanks
Roberto
Some pictures of the OEM hose.
Last edited by Kinkajou; 10-23-2007 at 04:38 PM.
10-23-2007, 04:45 PM
#17
Safety Car
The DRM hose is a flexible braided steel line. You can bend it to fit how you want it based on engine space.
The hose has threaded ends which screw into the factory locations on the pump and on the rack. No special equipment needed to install, although I think I had to use a ratcheting box-end wrench which you may not have.
The hose has threaded ends which screw into the factory locations on the pump and on the rack. No special equipment needed to install, although I think I had to use a ratcheting box-end wrench which you may not have.
10-23-2007, 05:17 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So it is safe to say that it looks like the braided stainless steel lines used for brakes, right?
If so, how did you manage to keep the hose in place, after all the hose will try to straighten itself when the pressure builds up.
I am really confused on this
If so, how did you manage to keep the hose in place, after all the hose will try to straighten itself when the pressure builds up.
I am really confused on this
10-23-2007, 11:02 PM
#19
Former Vendor
Sorry guys that I didn't see this sooner. I looked around for a picture of the setup but could find one. We have been making this line for over 15 years, way before digital cameras.
The -6 TFE hose holds it's postion very well. You shouldn't need anything more then a zip-tie or two.
Randy
PS If anyone has a picture, I would owe them one
The -6 TFE hose holds it's postion very well. You shouldn't need anything more then a zip-tie or two.
Randy
PS If anyone has a picture, I would owe them one
10-23-2007, 11:51 PM
#20
Safety Car
no zip ties necessary. it just kinda hangs out in position.
If you caught me last week when my A/C compressor was out, I would have snapped a picture or two...
If you caught me last week when my A/C compressor was out, I would have snapped a picture or two...