C5 Track Brakes
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
C5 Track Brakes
I took my C5 to the track for the first time on Friday and the brakes are scortched. Here is what I am planning on doing:
Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors
Hawk HP Plus Race brake pads (Material: Composite)
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
DRM Ducts 200
DRM Stainless Steel Brake Lines
I am new to this stuff, thoughts?
Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors
Hawk HP Plus Race brake pads (Material: Composite)
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
DRM Ducts 200
DRM Stainless Steel Brake Lines
I am new to this stuff, thoughts?
#2
Good list but I wouldn't do the rotors, Napa ones are fine.
Also, HP+ are ok if you want a dual purpose. Long run a street set of pads and a track set are a better choice, especially if you have a track with lots of high speed braking zones.
Also, HP+ are ok if you want a dual purpose. Long run a street set of pads and a track set are a better choice, especially if you have a track with lots of high speed braking zones.
#3
Burning Brakes
brembos are a waste of money. you will, sooner or later, crack/warp a rotor. do you want to replace a 30 dollar stocker or 300 dollar brembo rotor? not to mention the slots supposedly crack easier. ducts and stainless lines are a good idea. look into the spindle ducts that LG sells. might as well get those done when doing the ducts. i dont know anything about the castrol fluid. i think any DOT4 fluid will do. for what it's worth, my car has motul 600 fluid in it. the hawk HP+ is still considered a street pad, i think. either way, it's got plenty of bite if you're still on street tires (which im assuming is the case since it was your first time). make sure that when you do the brake fluid, you have the car hooked up to a tech2 computer so it flushes the ABS system too.
that said, chances are it's just your brake fluid thats cooked. get used to bleeding brakes if you get into tracking.
that said, chances are it's just your brake fluid thats cooked. get used to bleeding brakes if you get into tracking.
Last edited by carnut101; 09-10-2007 at 12:22 AM. Reason: typos
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
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Do that list except for 2 things, the rotors and the fluid. BOTH are serious money outlays for no reason. Use NAPA or Rockauto.com rotors, the cheapest ones. They are wearable maintenance items ( read: disposable ) and spending the money on "bling" rotors for track days is crazy for normal folks. Also, look into a step down type of fluid, like Wilwood EXP 600, AP600, or the equivalent. It will be fine at 1/4 of the cost. Use the money saved to step up to better pads as your driving warrants it!
Joe
Joe
#5
Burning Brakes
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Joe
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Awesome guys, thanks! Ok, so here is the list:
1 x Hawk Performance Brake Pads
1 x Earl's Stainless Steel Brake Lines
2 x Earl's Solo-Bleed Bleeder Screws
1 x G2 Spindle Ducts
4 x Napa Roters
1 x Hawk Performance Brake Pads
1 x Earl's Stainless Steel Brake Lines
2 x Earl's Solo-Bleed Bleeder Screws
1 x G2 Spindle Ducts
4 x Napa Roters
#8
Team Owner
SRF is cheaper per mile and not much in overall picture. You also meed spindle ducts from LGM in addtion to the DRM ducts. I never used a tech II not required. NAPA's are fine.
#9
Team Owner
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If you want double duty pads, the Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear are better track pads, and can be used on the street too.
Do a full brake line flush the first time when changing brake fluid, then for the most part a good caliper bleed is OK.
Do a full brake line flush the first time when changing brake fluid, then for the most part a good caliper bleed is OK.
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '07
#11
Melting Slicks
I'm using that exact combo on my car, and thye work pretty good on the street. The XP10 dust a lot, though, so be aware you will have to clean your front wheels a lot if brake dust bothers you.