hisvett

Purchased the Ron Davis kit from Randy at DRM, thanks Randy for the super service! Installation was pretty easy. I added some foil insulation tape to the oil lines in the area of the cat and engine block to keep from adding any more heat to the already hot oil.

Now I have a question about the oil level; do I check the oil level as normal - OR just after shutting down the engine - OR??? I'm thinking of the amount of oil in the cooling tank and how much of it will flow back into the crankcase. Just want to make sure I don't have a pressure drop in high "G" corner!

Maineiac

I run a total of 9 qts. in mine....

davidfarmer

check it normally, I don't think the heat exchanger is high enough for a significant amount of oil to drain back into the pan. I'd check it any hour or so after running it. Maybe for kicks, check it again after sitting overnight, but I bet it won't change too much.

hisvett

Thanks guys, I did have to add one qt. to bring the level back within run range.

David; your correct, after letting it set overnight, the level didn't change.

I guess my next question would be; when it comes time to change oil, will the external tank drain back into the crank OR will I have to disconnect the lower oil line at the radiator?

MungoZ06

I installed same mid-August.
Randy said to check it about a minute after shutting it off ...
As above ... no notable difference in oil level right after shutting off, or the next day ...
BTW ... I added ~ a qt.
As for draining ... Haven't changed mine yet, but I'm not planning on disconnecting any lines!
I'm going to measure what I drain, put the same amount back, then run it and check it ...
I figure the amount that may remain in the EOC will be less than 1/8th of the fill ... I can live with that, as I change based on # of track days and time, ... usually showing over 75% oil life remaining at change anyway.
Love the DRM/RD kit! ... Only issue I have is that when I high-temp teflon tape-wrapped the sensor, screwed it into the new line block, tightened it down, found that the damn sensor connector was oriented such that I had to plug in the sensor with the clip facing the block face ... and it wouldn't clear
so I backed it off a bit, inserted the plug, then tightened as much as I could. Have a tiny bit of oil that collects there ... but no drips ... anyway ... when I change the oil I'm going to remove it and file a notch into the block face, so I can snug it down.

hisvett

I can see how the oil sensor connector could be an issue. I guess I lucked out having the clip stop to the outside from the block. I did find there is an order in witch to install the oil adapter;

1. Connect back fitting to long hose [B]BEFORE[B] installing adapter to block, do not tighten hose fitting.
2. Install oil adapter to bock, tighten in place.
3. Connect second oil line to adapter.
4. Tighten both oil line fittings.
5. Install oil temp sensor, tighten & install wire connector.

It's killing me to still have the car up on jacks . I want to get it out on the track and it out! I'm sure it will be worth the $$$ in the Texas heat.

0Randy@DRM

Run the car for a couple minutes. Then turn the car off. Then check the oil after a minute or so. Fill to your level you like to run at. We run stock cars 3/4 to a full quart over.

Changing oil is a little fun with oil coolers. If you are just doing a normal old change. Jack up the front and pull the plug. Then go inside and have a cold one, because it's hot in Texas. Then come back, plug back in and filter back on and fill.

Randy

Cobra4B

Randy... are you saying theres a way to get the oil out of the cooler w/o disconnecting a line? I've found that the oil in the lines/cooler does not drain back. It seems that this is what others on here have experienced.

I'm running a Dewitts w/ left side EOC. When I change my oil I re-fill w/ 7 quarts and a new filter and it gets me to the top of the full line as w/ oem.

W/ the car parked checing oil level same thing... reads like factory as the oil doesn't drain back into the pan.

Am I off base here?

Bill Dearborn

I have DRMs early model of Ron Davis system with a remote filter that replaces the OEM filter. With that setup I get a larger filter (1 quart) and a way to drain oil from the cooler. I guess that is the advantage of having the extra plumbing associated with a remote oil filter.

Bill

hisvett

Thanks Randy; has anyone ever cracked the top oil line at the tank when changing the oil? Letting some air into the top of the oil tank should let it drain better.

I put my money down last night on some track time with The Drivers Edge this weekend at Motorsports Ranch (still room left in the top groups). The temps have dropped to the mid to upper 80's this week, still should see a difference in oil temps. I'll add my findings Sunday night or Monday.

0Randy@DRM

It wouldn't hurt, if you had two wrenches on it. But I don't think it is needed at all. If you are really worried about it, crack the lower one and let it drain.

Randy

MungoZ06

HisVet ... just for info ... left or right?
I have the right side ... which is the cool side ... but it's pretty crowded there ... with the 90 degree elbow standoff I had to be a bit "creative" when getting the lower line in place and lined up for threading in the space between the AC line and the Rad line adapter.

VetteDrmr

Just remember that once you drain the oil out of the cooler you then have to refill it somehow. Unless you've got an Accusump or something similar you're going to have to depend on the engine's pump, and that's time the top end will be running dry.

I just change the oil normally, and my Blackstone results have always come back looking good. Yes, you've got a quart of old oil in the system, but you've also got seven quarts of fresh.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

hisvett

Not sure that Ron Davis has that option, at least I didn't see it. I know DeWitt has the option of L or R side and I did give it some thought because the lines would be shorter on the Left. BUT, like you pointed out, it's crowded on the Left side and Randy at DRM made it worth going with the RD. Even with the longer lines I still have 42lbs of oil pressure at start up (Idle) and 40 when hot, so no drop in PSI

As far as coming up with a clean oil drain, I'll work on that later. I used to have an off road rail with a hot VW motor & two oil coolers. I would break one fitting and apply a little air pressure to the system to get all the oil back into the pan, worked very well

hisvett

Up date on radiator performance . Today's weather temps were in the upper 80's/low 90's here in Texas. This afternoon was just hot enough to send ya looking for some shade when the sun poked out from behind the clouds.

I ran four sessions on a local track that I've spent a lot of time on so I feel I have made a good comparison between the old and new setups.

Old/Stock (no oil cooler); On a like day, I could only hold a 8 to 9/10's charge for about 2/3's of a session before having to back off because of oil temps topping 298 degrees

Ron Davis with EOC; I could push for the total session with oil temps topping out at 267 degrees during the hottest part of the day. Water seems to run about the same, 225-230.

Bottom line.......Very Satisfied Well worth the money!

My next problem........now that I can run harder/longer, I'm now over heating the tires Anyway to hook up the new cooler to the tires

Dr Chill

I've found that if I let the oil drain out for a while (15 min or more), then if I disconnect the lower oil line from the cooler, very little oil (< 1/4 qt) drains out. Just draining via the drain plug is adequate.

Cobra4B

^ How much do you refil then? I let my oil drain warm for 15-20 min. However I refill w/ 7 quarts and and that puts me at the full mark.

When I did the initial fill I had to add 8 to make up for the extra capacity of the cooler and lines.