Blackrazor

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C6400hp

Flushing is getting all of the old fluid out and the new fluid in,it is just like bleeding the brakes but instead of just getting the cooked fliud out of the caliper you are getting all the old fluid out. You should invest in teh GM service manual for your car as the corvette has special procedures for what wheel to do in what order.
When your rotors have cracks that your fingernail will catch or that go all the way out to the edge of the rotor, it is time to replace. Pads? replace them when they are worn out.

astock165

To add to what C6 said: some pads will have an indicator of some sort to show when the pad is reaching its minimum thickness. If they don't you will have to estimate how much pad you will use and if it's enough to get you through. It's probably advisable to have a spare set and bring them with you so you can swap them out @ the track if you need to.

As far as tools, I'd recommend Motive's power bleeder (www.motiveproducts.com). I got one last year and absolutely love it. Makes bleeding or flushing the brakes an easy, one man job.

Karl_in_Chicago

I'm not aware of a Wilwood "DOT 5" brake fluid. DOT 5 is NOT the correct brake fluid to be using for a C5 or C6 either. If you've really added some DOT 5 to your brake system please don't go to the track until you've had a professional look at your system (unless you have some non-stock system that calls for DOT 5 but I can't think of one that you'd want on the track).

If you can afford Castrol SRF and frequent flushes then more power to you! Some of us that live closer to Austerity Lane choose more budget-friendly fluids with higher (relatively) boiling points than the stock fluid AND partner that up with frequent flushes. I use the ATE stuff myself, alternating between the amber and the blue for easy flushing (you see the color change and you know fresh fluid has cycled through). If you do go the SRF route one of the advantages all that $$ buys you is the very high boiling point and reduced hygroscopy means you can usually have longer intervals between flushes.

Pads and rotors - as to when to change them, you will know! You can help out both components by providing effective cooling; the DRM cooling ducts are popular add-ons to assist with that. Don't fall for the 'bling' rotors. Unless you replace your stock system with a big bucks aftermarket system keep feeding them the stock-ish rotors you can get from NAPA or Rock Auto for ~$25/ea (I use Rock Auto and am very happy with them).

Solo2GS

I'd assume he is referring to one of these brake fluids from Wilwood.

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...-EXP/index.asp

Fairly hi wet boiling points on both of them so he should be fine if the system was completely flushed with new fluid.

While you are at it, check the clutch fluid. It gets dirty with use and age too, and should be changed from time to time. It should be the color of your brake fluid (clear-rish), not dark brown/black!

Your profile does not say what kind of Corvette you have. But the best brake suggestion I can make is air ducts. Not the half assed factory brake ducts, but something that goes all the way to the back of the rotor. DRM makes a good kit for the C5. Not sure about C6, but I am sure there is one. Kits are also available for C4's at other places. It will make the world of difference in cooling your brakes. Which you desperately need to happen on Big Willow or any of the tracks around here.

"Also, how do I know when my rotors need replacing, is there a minimum thickness I should look for and measure?"

Yes there is minimum thickness, but easiest to tell by how checkered heat marked they are or how grooved up rough they feel to the touch. You can get quite a bit of life out of the rotors. More if they don't get so hot. Depends a lot on the pads you use.

"Finally, how do I know when the pads need replacing, i.e. how do I know what % of the pad remains?"

You can see the front pads by looking at them in the caliper or get a better view by taking the wheel off. Fronts wear much faster then rears. Rears last about 5 times as long or more... Before every event you should be checking the rotors and pad thickness. I wouldn't start a day with pads that are below half, unless you bring an extra set with you.

Some tips on preparing for a track days:
http://www.bauerracing.net/Prepare/DriversEd.htm

AU N EGL

that should be DOT 5.1 five point one, not DOT5

any brake fluid that has a wet not dry boiling point as close to if not above 400* will do. Check the fluid and brake pads after your first day too.

Solo2GS

I imagine it is 5.1. DOT 5 is silicone based that our cars do not use. Many just refer to it as DOT 5 because of the rating.


XP10 (Front) / XP8 (Rear) is a great combination I have used. XP12/XP10 is a little more agressive and not as rotor friendly, but works great too.

Best suggestion is just to throw on a new set of $25 NAPA rotors with the new pads. Many manufacturers say it is OK to switch pads on the same rotor with the same manufacturers pad, but if you do it with two different pads they won't bed in right. Changing out the rotors is simple.

I heard NAPA recently upped the price on their rotors though. Double check. If they did and you are close to Burbank Auto Parts I have a friend there who can get them quite cheap!

Just keep in mind that if this is your first event you are not going to be going 10/10th. I could go out there with a Yugo and still have a blast. Listen to your car and the brakes. Take it easy then build up to see what you can do. Its great to make all these changes if you have the money and the time, but they are recommendations for the best setup. You may not even be to the point in your driving ability to surpass what you have.

You can have the greatest brake pad in the world, but if you are on them too much and they get hot and stay hot they are not going to work as well.