Wilwood Pad Life and GT Rotors
#1
Team Owner
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Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Wilwood Pad Life and GT Rotors
Well as stated ECS is keeping measurments of Wilwood pad life across different events.
I am running Wilwood SL6 fronts and SL4 rears with GT Rotors and ECS spindle ducts and DRM air extentions.
The pad started out at .64 and after running limerock 1 day it was down to .62.
We then ran WGI for 2 days and Pocono for 1 more day. The pad is now down to .58.
they hardly looked used and the braking is still fantastic.
As a side note we are also testing the GT Rotors. One side happens to be using the ducting that John Shields recommended and the other side is using basic stuff (both sides have ECS Spindle ducts and DRM extentions).
From looking at the rotors the side with the basic ducting is more worn than the other side. There are some noticeable cracks that are small on the outside of the rotor while the other side looks pretty much new with some wear in the center only.
Now I am not sure if this is 100% because of the setup, but the air flow on the basic side is definitely less than the other side. If even remotely related to air flow to the rotor this is a very good reason to make sure that you are getting good air to those rotors so make sure you check that your tubing is free of any tears and all the air is getting to the rotors.
Outside of that the rotors have held up 4 events without any issues.
I am running Wilwood SL6 fronts and SL4 rears with GT Rotors and ECS spindle ducts and DRM air extentions.
The pad started out at .64 and after running limerock 1 day it was down to .62.
We then ran WGI for 2 days and Pocono for 1 more day. The pad is now down to .58.
they hardly looked used and the braking is still fantastic.
As a side note we are also testing the GT Rotors. One side happens to be using the ducting that John Shields recommended and the other side is using basic stuff (both sides have ECS Spindle ducts and DRM extentions).
From looking at the rotors the side with the basic ducting is more worn than the other side. There are some noticeable cracks that are small on the outside of the rotor while the other side looks pretty much new with some wear in the center only.
Now I am not sure if this is 100% because of the setup, but the air flow on the basic side is definitely less than the other side. If even remotely related to air flow to the rotor this is a very good reason to make sure that you are getting good air to those rotors so make sure you check that your tubing is free of any tears and all the air is getting to the rotors.
Outside of that the rotors have held up 4 events without any issues.
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2003
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A few questions...
- which wilwood pads? H's?
- can you describe the GT rotors? (diameter, aluminum hat, solid disc?)
- what is the "Shiels' Special" ducting - how's it differ from an off-the-shelf setup?
- which wilwood pads? H's?
- can you describe the GT rotors? (diameter, aluminum hat, solid disc?)
- what is the "Shiels' Special" ducting - how's it differ from an off-the-shelf setup?
Well as stated ECS is keeping measurments of Wilwood pad life across different events.
I am running Wilwood SL6 fronts and SL4 rears with GT Rotors and ECS spindle ducts and DRM air extentions.
The pad started out at .64 and after running limerock 1 day it was down to .62.
We then ran WGI for 2 days and Pocono for 1 more day. The pad is now down to .58.
they hardly looked used and the braking is still fantastic.
As a side note we are also testing the GT Rotors. One side happens to be using the ducting that John Shields recommended and the other side is using basic stuff (both sides have ECS Spindle ducts and DRM extentions).
From looking at the rotors the side with the basic ducting is more worn than the other side. There are some noticeable cracks that are small on the outside of the rotor while the other side looks pretty much new with some wear in the center only.
Now I am not sure if this is 100% because of the setup, but the air flow on the basic side is definitely less than the other side. If even remotely related to air flow to the rotor this is a very good reason to make sure that you are getting good air to those rotors so make sure you check that your tubing is free of any tears and all the air is getting to the rotors.
Outside of that the rotors have held up 4 events without any issues.
I am running Wilwood SL6 fronts and SL4 rears with GT Rotors and ECS spindle ducts and DRM air extentions.
The pad started out at .64 and after running limerock 1 day it was down to .62.
We then ran WGI for 2 days and Pocono for 1 more day. The pad is now down to .58.
they hardly looked used and the braking is still fantastic.
As a side note we are also testing the GT Rotors. One side happens to be using the ducting that John Shields recommended and the other side is using basic stuff (both sides have ECS Spindle ducts and DRM extentions).
From looking at the rotors the side with the basic ducting is more worn than the other side. There are some noticeable cracks that are small on the outside of the rotor while the other side looks pretty much new with some wear in the center only.
Now I am not sure if this is 100% because of the setup, but the air flow on the basic side is definitely less than the other side. If even remotely related to air flow to the rotor this is a very good reason to make sure that you are getting good air to those rotors so make sure you check that your tubing is free of any tears and all the air is getting to the rotors.
Outside of that the rotors have held up 4 events without any issues.
#3
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
1. H pads.
2. GT 13in rotors are slotted with aluminum hat
3. John gave me a link to this ducting that is far stronger than the other stuff. It also seems to hold it shape better. Hopefully he will chime in later and give the link again.
#5
Safety Car
I think this is what you're asking:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...8&postcount=18
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ceet.php
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...8&postcount=18
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/sceet.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ceet.php
#7
Are the pads the WilWood endurance pads, which have 15 mm of pad vs. the typical 9mms?
I had a set of SL-Rs on my C5 with "J" compounds. I eventually changed to my back up set but the pads weren't worn out.
I included both sets when I sold them to a friend (after I sold the C5) and he is still running them.
They last a freak'n long time.
I had a set of SL-Rs on my C5 with "J" compounds. I eventually changed to my back up set but the pads weren't worn out.
I included both sets when I sold them to a friend (after I sold the C5) and he is still running them.
They last a freak'n long time.
#8
Safety Car
Looks like the full-width and narrow-body SL6R both use 7420 type pads at 20mm thick.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...SL6R/index.asp
For some reason I thought the narrow SL6 used a thinner pad, but I can't find that now.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...SL6R/index.asp
For some reason I thought the narrow SL6 used a thinner pad, but I can't find that now.
#9
Melting Slicks
Yeah you just keeping on hoping John. Want eternal rotors, become a waxer and stop going to VIR Nice meeting you up there last week.
I'm using the 3.5" Sceet from Aircraft Spruce and it seems to work well. It is chaffing in a couple of places. More durable than the black hose DRM sent me with their duct kit. Then again the Sceet is $10/ft. The good news is with that and my home made ducts I've gone 2 weekends with Carbotech XP10/XP8 and XP12/XP10 and the rotors haven't cracked yet. Can hardly see any heat checks. Adding the spindle ducts to get the air pushed through the hub of the rotor does help.
Graham
I'm using the 3.5" Sceet from Aircraft Spruce and it seems to work well. It is chaffing in a couple of places. More durable than the black hose DRM sent me with their duct kit. Then again the Sceet is $10/ft. The good news is with that and my home made ducts I've gone 2 weekends with Carbotech XP10/XP8 and XP12/XP10 and the rotors haven't cracked yet. Can hardly see any heat checks. Adding the spindle ducts to get the air pushed through the hub of the rotor does help.
Graham
#10
Looks like the full-width and narrow-body SL6R both use 7420 type pads at 20mm thick.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...SL6R/index.asp
For some reason I thought the narrow SL6 used a thinner pad, but I can't find that now.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...SL6R/index.asp
For some reason I thought the narrow SL6 used a thinner pad, but I can't find that now.
#11
Team Owner
Yeah you just keeping on hoping John. Want eternal rotors, become a waxer and stop going to VIR Nice meeting you up there last week.
I'm using the 3.5" Sceet from Aircraft Spruce and it seems to work well. It is chaffing in a couple of places. More durable than the black hose DRM sent me with their duct kit. Then again the Sceet is $10/ft. The good news is with that and my home made ducts I've gone 2 weekends with Carbotech XP10/XP8 and XP12/XP10 and the rotors haven't cracked yet. Can hardly see any heat checks. Adding the spindle ducts to get the air pushed through the hub of the rotor does help.
Graham
I'm using the 3.5" Sceet from Aircraft Spruce and it seems to work well. It is chaffing in a couple of places. More durable than the black hose DRM sent me with their duct kit. Then again the Sceet is $10/ft. The good news is with that and my home made ducts I've gone 2 weekends with Carbotech XP10/XP8 and XP12/XP10 and the rotors haven't cracked yet. Can hardly see any heat checks. Adding the spindle ducts to get the air pushed through the hub of the rotor does help.
Graham
Thick pad is .80" on LG kit and .64 on thinner kit.
#12
Le Mans Master
Looks like the full-width and narrow-body SL6R both use 7420 type pads at 20mm thick.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...SL6R/index.asp
For some reason I thought the narrow SL6 used a thinner pad, but I can't find that now.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...SL6R/index.asp
For some reason I thought the narrow SL6 used a thinner pad, but I can't find that now.