aggie_corvette

It was brought to my attention that federal regulations have forced a change in the additive make up of oil. They have changed the “SL” rating to “SM”.
The change reduces the amount of anti-wear elements Zinc and Phosphorus, b/c in long and high exposure could cause the catalytic converters to fail.
Basically they traded engine life for emissions.

I learned this from some older AIR-Cooled Porsche guys who track their cars. They have started using Mobile1 Turbo Diesel truck oil or motorcycle oil such as Mobile1 MX4T as they have the higher levels of anti-wear additives . I haven’t converted yet but I trust them as their air/oil cooled engines rely even more on the oil and their allot more expensive to rebuild than an LS engine.

I credit this info to the Porsche crowd but we can all benefit.
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MOBILE 1 TURBO DEISEL TRUCK OIL

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...ruck_5W-40.asp

Product Description
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 is a fully synthetic supreme performance heavy duty diesel engine oil that helps extend engine life while providing long drain capability and fuel economy for modern diesel engines operating in severe applications. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck utilizes state-of-the-art technology to deliver exceptional performance in modern low emission engines, including refrigerated units, as well as older, well-maintained engines. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 is recommended for use in a wide range of light-duty applications such as turbo diesel pick-up trucks, as well as, heavy-duty applications and operating environments found in the on-road transport and off-road mining, construction, and agricultural industries. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck also meets the API SL specification for gasoline engines used in mixed fleets.
The unequalled performance of Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 is the result of extensive cooperative development work with major equipment builders and application of the latest lubrication technology. As a result, this product meets or exceeds the latest API, ACEA, JASO, and Global industry specifications for diesel engine oils, as well as the requirements of virtually all major American, European, and Japanese engine manufacturers.
Features and Benefits
Many modern, low emission diesel engines generate more soot and operate at higher temperatures than older engines. This significantly increases the need for supreme performance lubricants. Current tighter engine designs reduce oil consumption, resulting in less fresh oil makeup to replenish depleted additives. Top piston rings are located higher, bringing the oil film closer to the combustion chamber and exposing the lubricant to severe thermal stresses. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 maintains outstanding performance at significantly higher temperatures than other high performance diesel engine oils. It is also fully compatible with conventional oils. The key benefits include:


Features
Advantages and Potential Benefits
Meets or exceeds demanding specifications of major OEMs One engine oil for mixed fleet operations
Outstanding thermal and oxidation stability Reduced low temperature sludge build-up and high temperature deposits
Enhanced film strength at high temperatures Reduced engine scuffing and bore polishing
Inherent stay-in-grade shear stability Wear protection and reduced oil consumption; maintains viscosity in severe, high temperature service
Advanced formulation and viscometrics Improved fuel economy
Low volatility Reduced oil consumption
Exceptional low temperature pumpability Easier engine start-up and reduced wear
Enhanced TBN quality reserve Deposit control and extended drain capability
Outstanding resistance to corrosion Extended life of critical wear surfaces
Long drain capability Increased operating efficiency and lower overall cost
Component compatibility Longer gasket and seal life, extended service intervals

Applications
Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 is recommended for use in all super high performance diesel applications, including modern low emission engine designs with Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR). These applications include the following:
• On-highway engines operating in both high speed/high load and stop-and-go conditions
• Off-highway engines operating in severe low speed/heavy load conditions
• Virtually all diesel powered equipment from American, European, and Japanese equipment builders
• High performance gasoline engines and mixed fleets
• Refrigeration units

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More info on oil.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Oil
last updated 4.26.07
The purpose of proper lubrication is to provide a physical barrier (oil film) that separates moving parts reducing wear and friction. Oil also supplies cooling to critical engine components, such as bearings. Detergent oils contain dispersants, friction modifiers, anti-foam, anti-corrosion, and anti-wear additives. These detergents carry away contaminants such as wear particulates and neutralize acids that are formed by combustion byproducts and the natural breakdown of oil. Not all motor oils are created equally when it comes to the levels of additives and detergents used. The focus of this study is on the levels of zinc and phosphorus found in motor oils, more exactly, the zinc (Zn) and phosphorus (P) that makes up the anti-wear additive ZDDP, zinc dialkyl dithiosphosphate.
What general characteristics make motor oils specifically well suited to an aircooled engine? Aside from recommendations issued by Porsche, what makes a good oil? These oils must be thermally stable, having a very high flashpoint, and must “maintain proper lubrication and protect vital engine components under the extreme pressure and the high temperature conditions” found in aircooled Porsches. Porsche recommends and uses Mobil 1 0w40 as a factory fill and their 15w50 has been a popular choice used by many for their aircooled boxer engines year round in a wide range of climates.
Porsche’s recommendation in hand, our initial analysis from 2005 and 2006 found that all recent SL formulations of Mobil lubricants tested, including Mobil 1, have had similar 0.12-0.14% Zn and P content, which we think is a good thing, but looking closer, Mobil 1 0w40 had somewhat less Zn and P, but still above 0.10%. Current SM formulations are at the 0.10% level or less. This confirms the industry wide trend of the reduction of Zn and P from motor oils, with the eventual reduction to 0.06-0.08% or even worse, the elimination of these additives, which are essential to an aircooled (or even watercooled) Porsche engine's longevity.
Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending the addition of GM's EOS Engine Oil Supplement at every oil change. Shops that used to run M1 in their race cars have either switched to Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40 or Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 or have resorted to using premium dino oills, such as Swepco 306 15w40 or Brad Penn Racing 20w50 oils, for their higher levels of protection. For most owners, the reduction in longevity of a catalytic convertor is a small price to pay considering the many thousands of dollars it costs to properly rebuild a Porsche engine.
Oil companies have been cutting back on the use of Zn and P as anti-wear additives, and turning to alternative zinc-free (ZF) additives since Zn and P have been found to be bad for catalytic converters. One such anti-wear additive is boron. Most of the SM and CJ-4 oils we tested contain significant concentrations of boron (B) to offset the reduction of Zn and P. The performance of these zinc-free anti-wear additives has only been proven with ultra-low sulphur fuels, not readily available in the United States with exception of new diesel fuels since 2007. Since we are discussing aircooled engines specifically, the highest levels of boron we found were in Harley Davidson’s SYN3 motor oil, which is specifically formulated for an aircooled engine, but at levels six to ten times that of what is present in any reformulated SM or CJ-4 motor oil. Additionally, Harley's SYN3 didn't reduce the Zn or P, just supplemented it with the added boron.
According to leading studies, Boron works best in the presence of Zn and P and may better serve complement to these anti-wear additives than a replacement for them. This reduction is a mandate issued by API, American Petroleum Institute, who is in charge of developing standing standards for motor oils. In 1996, API introduced the API SJ classification to reduce these levels to 0.10% or less. The latest API SM standard for car oils calls for a zinc and phosphorus content less than 0.08% to reduce sulfur, carbon monoxide, and hydrocarbon emissions. As a result of this mandate, some motor oils now have as little as 0.05% zinc and phosphorus.
Prior to the new CJ-4 API standard for diesel oils, we found most of the CI-4 15w40 and 5w40 oils to have excellent levels of Zn and P. We did observe Mobil, among other manufacturers, beginning the use of boron in their oils as a zinc-free (ZF) anti-wear additive in various CI-4 and SL formulations, but always with Zn and P levels, above current API limitations. It would appear now that with the reduction of Zn and P in these newest CJ-4 oils, that boron will now become a more common anti-wear additive, and even with lowered Zn and P levels, the boron levels are still nowhere as close to what previous CI-4 and SL oils, so the long-term performance of these new oils is unknown and unproven in vehicles running fuels other than those classified as ultra-low sulphur, typically less than 10ppm.
AVOID: However, it is worth noting that these new API guidelines do not apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting “Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM classfication, with it's lower Zn and P levels, which applies only to 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30 "ILSAC" grades. Although having been more sensitive to emissions and the environment than American standards, we find the European ACEA A3 and B3/B4 classifications, which place a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%, to be better in taking into consideration wear and engine longevity while limiting emissions and protecting emissions control devices. Additionally, ACEA A3 sequences require higher high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosities, stay in grade sheer stability, and tighter limits on evaporative loss, high temperature oxidation, and piston varnish. This makes oils meeting these ACEA standards that much better for your Porsche, especially since wear limits are much more stringent for valve train wear, 1/6th to 1/4th the wear allowed in the sequences for API's SM standards. Porsche requires a minimum 3.5 cSt @ 150C HTHS viscosity, which is a good measure of the protection any given motor oil provides, and requires that all approved oils be of group III or better base stocks, which includes quality hydrocracked parrafinic petroleum bases like those used by Brad Penn and Swepco. In general, synthetics provide the best protection, but a good additive package and quality parrafinic base stock has been proven to work just as well.
Failure to use the right oil, use proper filtration, or observe proper changing intervals can affect the performance of even the best motor oil. This also includes changing the oil too often or not often enough. Against conventional wisdom, engine wear decreases as oil ages to a certain extent, which means that changing your oil more frequently actually causes engine wear; these findings were substantiated by studies conducted by the auto manufacturers and petroleum companies, leading to drain intervals increased from 3,000mi to 5,000-7,500mi in most domestic vehicles. That said, owners with aircooled or even watercooled Porsches should follow the manufacturer's severe service schedules, as intervals in excess of 10, 15, or even 20,000 mi or two years as recommended by most European manufacturers, including Porsche, are too long in our opinion as well as many in the Porsche industry. It has been suggested that no more than six months or 7500mi (whichever comes first) should be observed between service intervals and vehicles driven in more demanding conditions should be serviced more frequently. Vehicles with track time or sustained high oil temperatures or RPMs should have their oil changed after every event. Vehicles subjected to very short drives or sustained operation in heavy traffic should indeed be serviced every three months or 3,000, for optimum longevity of your engine. Regular oil analysis is the best way to determine ideal drain intervals and is recommended to ensure your oil is holding up and doing its job. With this knowledge in hand, using a quality motor oil with proper filtration and regular service is the best thing to do for your engine and to protect your investment.
Written by Charles L Navarro
LN Engineering
Any information you may receive related to this web site is provided merely as friendly suggestions, not as expert opinion, testimony or advice. Neither LN Enginering nor Charles Navarro endorses or sponsors any information, products or methodologies you may find herein.

Frequently Asked Questions about Motor Oils
What non-detergent oil can I use when breaking in a new engine?
Just because non-detergent oil is cheap, it doesn't mean you should use a cheap non-detergent oil. I would recommend using the highest quality oil regardless, and Exxon Aviation Piston Engine Oil is one such oil. Meets SAE J1966 spec for aircraft piston engines for non-detergent break-in lubricant. Only drawback is the limited choices for viscosities. 20w50 would work for the summer months or for break-in on a dyno in controlled climates. This is probably the best quality non-detergent oil available, for those who prefer to use such an oil on a new engine. This is the oil we have used and just boost the ZDDP with GM EOS additives. Available from http://www.eliteetc.com/exoil.html.
Other than non-detergent oils for break in, I have also been informed that just this year Brad-Penn / Penn-Grade began to offer a SAE 30 break in oil with .14% Zn and P already in the motor oil. Information about this oil can be found at the American Refining Group's website here. Joe Gibbs Racing also offers their BR break-in oil here.
How should I break in my engine?
If you have questions on how you should break in an engine and proper break in procedure, we recommend reading the following articles about the subject:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/re...s/engnbrkn.htm
What motor oils had the 0.12% levels of zinc and phosphorus recommended?
The current API standard is SM, and calls for 0.06-0.08% Zn and P. The new CJ-4 standard which supercedes CI-4 calls for no more than 0.1% P (and Zn). Some of these reformulations have new zinc-free anti-wear additives, but we still think a target of 0.12% is ideal for Zn and P levels as documented by the 1977 SAE Journal paper titled "Cam and Lifter Wear as Affected by Engine Oil ZDP Concentration and Type."

Name Vis P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Detergents (ppm) API Date Type Source
Amerilube 10w50 1254 1115 3001 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil AFL Euro 5w40 701 804 50 1452 SL 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil HDEO 5w40 794 1081 2276 CJ-4 11/06 SYN Staveley
Amsoil Series 2000 Racing 20w50 1014 1123 12 3209 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Amsoil V-Twin/MC 20w50 1193 1281 3564 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 434 532 165 1601 SL 08/06 SEMI Blackstone
Amsoil XL-7500 5w20 334 1096 209 3061 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Act Evo 20w50 765 1126 1724 SG 05/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol GPS 4STK MC2 20w50 767 1133 1544 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Castrol GTX 20w50 1157 1422 1848 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Castrol GTX High Mile 20w50 1248 1382 1848 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Castrol Syntec 5w40 786 918 1979 SL 09/06 SYN Blackstone
Castrol Syntec 5w50 921 914 58 2628 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Castrol Syntec Blend 20w50 937 916 1197 SM 03/07 SEMI Staveley
Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 965 1094 46 2461 CI-4 3/07 DINO Blackstone
Castrol TWS 10w60 425 1294 111 2383 SJ 06/06 SYN Staveley
Chevron Delo 400 15w40 1191 1622 3668 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Delvac 1 5w40 1390 1803 76 2583 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 1380 1702 78 2388 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Elf 505.01 VW 5w40 584 1092 2691 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Exxon Av Break-in oil 20w50 1 4 23 N/A 11/05 DINO Staveley
Exxon Av Oil 20w50 702 32 33 N/A 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Exxon Superflow 20w50 717 848 96 2650 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Ford Motorcraft 5w20 545 848 298 2005 SM 01/07 SEMI Staveley
Harley Davidson Syn3 20w50 1081 1182 264 1482 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Havoline 20w50 425 494 87 1049 SM 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Joe Gibbs Racing XP5 20w50 920 1231 504 SG 04/07 SEMI Blackstone
Kendal GT (Vintage) 20W50 1229 1415 2408 SE 11/05 DINO Blackstone
Kendall GT 20w50 904 1233 2885 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Kendall GT 10w30 582 872 278 1416 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Kendall GT 10w40 598 897 282 1565 SM 11/05 SEMI Staveley
Lucas High Perf. Motor Oil 20w50 386 460 214 1079 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 761 876 167 2630 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 796 907 178 2650 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 808 976 185 3256 SL 04/03 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 0w40 706 834 148 2246 SM 02/05 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 15w50 952 1030 41 2175 SM 03/07 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1193 1376 228 2970 SL 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1062 1279 79 2485 SM 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 906 1024 72 2071 SM 01/06 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 1315 1428 226 2593 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1277 1460 188 2025 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 mx4t 10w40 1411 1623 188 2248 SG 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 R 0w30 1399 1536 178 3051 SG 02/04 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 Super Syn 15w50 1343 1390 205 2601 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w40 1034 1247 51 2826 CI-4 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 V Twin 20w50 1329 1949 204 2130 SG 11/05 SYN Staveley
Mobil 5k Clean 10w40 660 1028 2895 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Mobil High Mile 10w40 527 1021 2844 SM 06/06 DINO Staveley
Motul 300V Competition 5w40 1317 1409 19 3273 SH 04/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 300V Competition 15w50 1139 1130 20 2410 SH 05/05 SYN Blackstone
Motul 505.01 VW 5w40 973 1226 2830 SL 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Competition 15w50 1148 1327 11 2723 SH 05/06 SYN Staveley
Motul Tekma Mega 15w40 1220 1737 145 3469 CI-4 05/06 DINO Staveley
Mystik 15w40 1130 1224 3104 CI-4 03/07 DINO Staveley
Mystik 10w50 700 799 2003 CI-4 03/07 SEMI Blackstone
Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 664 852 2094 SJ 04/07 SEMI Blackstone
Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50 801 1058 2827 SJ 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Pennzoil 20w50 501 800 223 2062 SM 01/07 DINO Staveley
Quaker State Q Full Syn 5w50 923 908 1917 SM 11/05 SYN Staveley
Redline 15w50 924 1004 27 2287 SM 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Redline 10w40 1440 1872 3039 SL 11/05 SYN Staveley
Rotella 15w40 843 946 26 1881 CJ-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Rotella 15w40 1278 1555 2946 CI-4 11/05 DINO Staveley
Rotella 5w40 1397 1552 2921 CI-4 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple 20w50 668 763 2034 SJ 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple 20w50 1290 1337 3295 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Max Cycle 10w40 4085 1222 2599 SJ 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3179 1030 2142 SJ 04/07 SYN Blackstone
Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50 3907 1458 2478 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple Racing 51 20w50 1285 1417 2639 SJ 11/05 SYN Staveley
Royal Purple XPR 10w40 1034 1741 2709 SJ 12/06 SYN Blackstone
Schaeffer 7000 Supreme 20w50 1249 1626 2451 SL 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Schaeffer 9000 Supreme 5w40 1113 1315 10 3126 SL 07/05 SYN Blackstone
Swepco 306 15w40 763 895 92 1732 CI-4 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Torco SR-1 20w50 363 412 759 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco SR-5 20w50 1072 830 10 1481 SG 02/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco T-4SR 20w50 1059 969 1293 SG 05/06 SYN Staveley
Torco TR-1 20w50 670 571 958 SG 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Torco V Series ST 20w50 1030 1286 2231 SG 05/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline All Fleet Plus 15w40 1110 1232 3559 CI-4 10/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Durablend 20w50 566 732 13 2606 SM 06/06 SEMI Staveley
Valvoline Max Life 20w50 691 879 17 2170 SM 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Prem. Blue 15w40 1314 1838 158 4329 CI-4 06/06 DINO Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 20w50 605 689 1786 SM 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Valvoline VR1 20w50 1085 1293 17 2242 SL 11/05 DINO Staveley
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 835 976 10 819 SL 03/07 DINO Blackstone
Valvoline VR-1 NSL 20w50 842 962 11 838 SL 03/07 SYN Blackstone
Bardahl No Leak/Smoke 53 4 0 11/05 O/A Staveley
Boron Motor Silk 116 0 05/06 O/A Staveley
CD-2 Maxx Detergent 1 7 2416 11/05 O/A Staveley
CMW Racing Concentrate 2292 1147 358 06/06 O/A Staveley
GM Cam Lifter Prelube 5710 5876 29004 01/07 O/A Blackstone
GM EOS Assembly Lube 5762 6221 8265 01/07 O/A Blackstone
Lucas Oil Stabilizer 36 13 0 01/07 O/A Staveley
Power Service Oil Extender 3567 4945 6394 11/05 O/A Staveley
Schaeffer Micron Moly 110 5 0 08/06 O/A Staveley
STP Blue 1704 2436 88 11/05 O/A Staveley
STP Red 2115 3932 901 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Max Life Protect 537 768 22 3871 11/05 O/A Staveley
Valvoline Synpower 356 551 650 11/05 O/A Staveley
Here are the running averages for all the oils tested thusfar:
API P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Mo (ppm) Ca (ppm) Mg (ppm) Na (ppm) Total Detergents
SE-SJ 1301 1280 151 357 1936 293 214 2443
CI-4 1150 1374 83 80 2642 199 2840
SL 994 1182 133 273 2347 109 22 2479
CJ-4 819 1014 26 2075 7 2082
SM 770 939 127 122 2135 13 139 2287
Please note that these figures can be up to +/- 10% according to the accuracy of oil sample testing, but can be useful for determining general trends and which oils have the highest anti-wear additive levels. Trends can be used to say X oil has more Zn and P than Y, rather than proving exact levels. If your company's motor oil is shown not to have the proper levels, please contact us and we'd be more than happy to append our results and have your oil retested. Tests from one lab to another may not be comparable. That said, "Your mileage may vary..."
Any information you may receive related to this web site is provided merely as friendly suggestions, not as expert opinion, testimony or advice. Neither LN Enginering nor Charles Navarro endorses or sponsors any information, products or methodologies you may find herein. The test results contained herein come with no guarantee, even for a product with the same name, date code, API code, or lot number - there can and will be variations depending on the sample and who is doing the testing. Only the individual companies can assure that, and only they can report their specs. All oil sampling and testing was done by either Staveley Services NA or Blackstone Labs, both independent laboratories.
Corrections and Observations
The new SM formulation of Mobil 1 15w50 seems to have in addition to reducing the Zn and P significantly, they also reduced the boron from 226ppm to 72ppm and eliminated all trace of sodium and magnesium, two other known anti-wear additives. It would look like it's an entirely new formulation than the SL it's replacing. I strongly recommend those running Mobil 1 15w50 switch to Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, which still is an API SG oil, which has the highest level of zinc found in any motor oil, which adding the boron at levels typically only seen in low Zn and P formulations. This should technically provide the best protection in my opinion. For those using Mobil 1 0w40, Mobil's MXT4 10w40 which is also an API SG oil should provide excellent wear perfomance similar to the V-Twin formulation, but in a lighter viscosity. I should note that both of these oils have LOTS of Zn and P and will probably shorten your catalytic converter's life. If it was me, I would think continuing to use M1 15w50 and 0w40 with some added GM EOS would suffice for most users while keeping Zn and P levels to where they shouldn't vastly affect emissions control systems overall life. These are good oils, but I personally like their motorcycle bretheren better.
The Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing oil tested lower than expected for Zn and P from the 0.12% shown on the manufacturer's MSDS. This oil has the trademark sodium content (and green color) that gives it away as genuine Pennsylvania oil and is like the Kendall GT from years past. Brad Penn's Racing oils are a blend of genuine Pennsylvania crude and synthetic base stocks, like the 30-40% PAO used in their 0w30 formulation. I highly recommend both their ow30 and 20w50; Brad Penn's Racing 0w30 also exceeds Porsche's requirement of min. 3.5 cSt HTHS vis with a 3.9 cSt HTHS! We offer all Brad Penn Racing oils here.
Southwestern Petroleum Corp also reports their Zn and P levels should be about double what they tested at. Their oil is tested and every batch has to have a minimum of 1200ppm P and 1250ppm Zn, but can be as much as 300ppm higher. Swepco 306 15w40 is also a CI-4 oil and will remain for the forseable future as such and is the 15w40 grade motor oil I most recommend to all my customers who do not use a 0w30 or 20w50. Swepco offers other viscosity 306 products which I would not hesitate to recommend given the performance of their 15w40 oil and its reputation in the Porsche community.
Redline oil also tested low for Zn and P in their newer SM formulation; according to Redline, it should be 1400 ppm Zn and 1200 ppm P. Their non-detergent racing oils have roughly double that amount, but since there aren't detergents, I would not use them for street use unless changed very often. For those who don't know why a racing oil would have less detergents, it has been suggested in various SAE journals that detergents can interact with the anti-wear additives and prevent the AW films from forming. I would say that for this reason alone, probably Redline's pure racing oils would probably provide some of the best protection money can buy for an all out race oil for engines getting oil after every race and overhauled more frequently than street engines.
FYI - I use all the above motor oils from Brad Penn, Mobil, Redline, and Swepco, but there are other excellent motor oils proven to perform in the most demanding applications worth trying.
Although reading motor oils for their API ratings or testing their Zn and P levels exclusively does not always guarantee their performance, using a motor oil with an ACEA A3 approval rating does guarantee a minimum high temperature high shear rating (HTHS vis @ 150C min of 3.5). An oil with an ACEA E3, E4, or E5 also has to meet this rating, but allowable total wear limits for cam wear are more stringent with the A3 specification.
How did you determine the recommended 0.12% Zn and P level (ZDP, a.k.a. ZDDP)?
There are many excellent SAE technical papers on the subject, but the one I found most interested was from 1977 titled "Cam and Lifter Wear as Affected by Engine Oil ZDP Concentration and Type." There is some background that is needed to shed light on their results. First of all, there are different types of ZDPs. There is an Aryl ZDP which is the most stable form. There is also an Alkyl ZDP which although is not as stable, exhibits the best wear protection. In various fleet tests, it was determined that the best performance was from oils containting all Alkyl ZDPs or predominantly Alkyl ZDP blends. They also looked at the performance of "ashless" oils (0.03-0.05% Sulpherated Ash) vs oils with normal levels (0.11% or higher) and it would appear that oils with lower ash levels needed more ZDP to provide the same level of protection. I bring this up since the newest CJ-4 and SM oils require significantly lower ash levels, less than 0.10%. Across the Indianapolis, Pheonix, and Los Angeles taxi fleets observed, oils with 0.11-0.13% Alkyl ZDP resulted in the lowest combined and average cam wear measured. Levels of wear remained low with oils with Alkyl ZDPs as high as 0.19%. The oils that had at least 0.07% Alkyl combined with 0.05% Aryl performed just as well as oils with higher Alkyl only ZDP levels, suggesting some sort of synergistic properties of the decomposition products of the Alkyl/Aryl blend. Comined ZDP levels of the Aryl and Alkyl blend were min. 0.12%. Our assumption with choosing a minimum Zn and P levels of 0.12% is on the assumption that the best combo of ZDPs are being used for wear performance, not longer drain intervals.
Who can test my Porsche's engine oil?
Although you could have your oil samples tested by a multitude of companies, fellow 356 Registry Member Larry T, who is also a Rennlist member, offers testing and also has been so kind as to share his results with everyone at http://members.rennlist.com/oil. Visit his site at http://www.youroil.net. Alternatively, you can use Staveley Services North America or Blackstone Labs to do your testing as we have for our testing. Bulter which is a Catepillar-Certified lab also is a popular choice.
How can I boost the level of Zn and P?
One way would be to use GM's Engine Oil Supplememental additive. By our calculations, between .5 and .66 oz of GM EOS has to be added to each quart of oil to raise the Zn and P by 100 ppm each.
But be careful, more is not always better. Too much and it will cause damage to your catalytic convertor and possibly other emissions controls. Although not as concentrated, STP 4-cyl Treatment (in the red bottle), is easy to find and inexpensive, and doesn't have the viscosity improvers (thickeners) of the blue bottled STP.
For a Porsche 911, I recommend using 1 bottle (pint) of GM EOS with every oil change if the oil you are using has less than the recommended 1200-1400 ppm (0.12-0.14%) Zn and P. If the oil you want to use has less than 1000 ppm (0.10%) Zn and P, choose a different oil, since you will need to add too much of the GM EOS to boost this.
For a four cylinder Porsche, 1 bottle of STP 4-cyl treatment is the perfect amount for boosting the Zn and P in a ~4 quart fill. Alternatively, about 1/3-1/2 of the bottle of EOS will be more than enough.
Do not overdose on these supplements, just add enough to get to .12% and leave your oil alone. If you feel the need to have higher levels, use a different oil that has them to start with!
What oil do you recommend for my aircooled Porsche? What oil do you use in your Porsche?
For a sub $5 a quart oil, I recommend Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50. For winter use, I recommend their 0w30 or 10w30 Racing formulation. The Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing oil is the same "green" oil everyone was familiar with back when Kendall GT was the best motor oil money can buy, as both the original and this newer product both come from the same facility using genuine Pennsylvania crude, which has it's trademark sodium content. These oils are proven to protect cams, rockers, lifters, and all valvetrain components as well as provide superior rod bearing life. We normally stock Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 Racing 20w50, as it is our perferred choice of lubricant. We also offer their break in oil for new engines. Just ask any seasoned engine builder about the "green" Kendall oil from decades past and you'll know why we like it so much. I usually change my oil twice a year, in the spring and late in the fall and find this oil a perfect balance of price with exceptional protection.
Another excellent oil highly recommended by many well known and respected Porsche shops is Swepco's 15w40 DINO motor oil. In fact, some shops have switched from Mobil 1 to Swepco 306 15w40 in their customer's race cars with excellent results. Being Brad Penn doesn't offer a Racing formulation in this grade, I would not hesitate to use Swepco in this viscosity.
For a "boutique" synthetic, there are many excellent choices from Redline, Royal Purple, etc..., but at current, we have only road tested Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 and Mobil 1 MX4T 10w40, both of which are excellent oils with API SG ratings and are ideal for aircooled Porsches, but unfortunately cost almost twice the price of Brad Penn.
Why use a motorcycle oil?
This debate stems ultimately from that of why you should or shouldn’t use a motor oil intended for your automobile in your motorcycle. Motorcycles, on average, have a higher HP per liter, operate at higher rotational speeds, have higher compression ratios (leading to elevated operating temperatures), and are otherwise higher stressed than the engine in your car. Output per litre can easily exceed 1.5 times that of even a high performance car's engine at RPMS sometimes double the normal rpm for a car's engine. For those motorcycles that are not water-cooled, the oil has the added requirement to assist in oil cooling those engines that are air-cooled and must be capable of higher operating temperatures and fluctuations in these temperatures, while maintaining loading ability and viscosity stability (which go hand in hand).
Motorcycle oils have higher levels of phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection and the same high-temperature detergent technology for superior wear protection and engine cleanliness, even at elevated oil temperatures. Specifically motorcycle oils for aircooled engines are designed for very high localized oil temperatures and high overall oil temperatures. Where conventional motor oils begin to break down above 250F, a synthetic motorcycle oil is good for more than 300F sustained before break down. Additionally, motorcycle oils must have improved rust and acid-corrosion protection, as many are not operated on a daily basis. The same goes for most vintage Porsches not used as daily drivers.
Our own field testing has shown that Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin and Amsoil’s Harley Davidson Motorcycle 20w50 synthetics most definitely out perform most every oil in this viscosity regardless of whether or not it is a diesel, mixed fleet, automobile, or motorcycle oil. The only real drawbacks to these motorcycle formulations are their price, usually at least a few dollars more per quart, which can lead to an oil change on a Porsche 911 costing $40-50 more than say, an oil change using Mobil 1, and second, that they are only available in 10w40 and 20w50 multi-grades.
In most cases, Mobil 1 0w40 is a better choice for a daily driver that will see operation in colder climates and will see sub-freezing cold starts, but with warmer climates I believe that 0w40 is too light and increased thrust bearing wear has been observed in the newer water cooled Porsches, especially in those requiring the clutch to be depressed at startup. Additionally, hotter climates may require something more than a 10w40 in summer months, like a 20w50, which might force premature oil changes due to climate changes, and in that case, the old-standby of Mobil 1 15w50 is a better choice for year-round use, just make sure to add GM's EOS if you do.
As a whole, it would appear that all the V-Twin 20w50 oils we tested have excellent anti-wear additive levels and most are not SM oils, but rather earlier SG or SL formulations.
Can I use a car motor oil in a motorcycle?
Although we are discussing Porsches, I thought I should clarify this point. You should always use a motorcycle oil in a motorcycle, especially one that meets the required specification, such as the JASO-MA and others, since the motor oil has in most cases a dual purpose of lubricating the gearbox and some have to deal with a wet clutch. In a pinch there are some car motor oils that will do the job, but why skimp when you can use the real thing?
Can I use a diesel motor oil in a car?
Yes. Many camshaft manufacturers recommend the use of diesel oils, many even name Shell Rotella T as their preferred engine oil, along with some form of Zn and P additive, such as GM EOS. The only mention I have seen as to a reason not to use a diesel oil would be the lack of friction modifiers in diesel oils vs car oils, but on the other side of the fence, usually friction modifiers are typically only used in very low viscosity motor oils that don't have the levels of Zn and P we are looking for.
The newest CJ-4 formulations are now limited in the amounts of Zn and P allowed, compared to the CI-4 forumations most users are familar with. I would recommend adding GM EOS to these newest CJ-4 oils as well because of this or keep to using CI-4 or CI-4 Plus oils.
Is there moly in my motor oil? Is moly bad for my engine?
From our testing, most SM oils have some level of boron and moly to make up for the lower level of Zn and P and is now more commonly found in SM oils and the new CJ-4 oils.
The moly is typically there as a friction modifier in lighter viscosity motor oils considered "Energy Conserving." We found on average SM oils had 0.004% moly concentrations, less than what is found in Mobil 1. Also, in testing VW 502.00 spec oils, I also found them to be lacking in moly as well. There are many oils with significantly higher levels of moly such as in Redline and Royal Purple (racing and motorcycle formulations had significantly more moly than their street version). On the flip side, some advertise their product does not have moly intentionally, claiming moly is an abrasive and deposit forming. Regardless, some oil manufacturers claim that the addition of moly can reduce friction up to 38%, reduce bearing wear up to 60% and reduce overall operating temperatures.
What kind of real-world field-testing have you done?
On top of our standard additive package and total base number (TBN) analysis on all the motor oils we have tested, we also chosen several motor oils for field testing on a vw type 4 platform with a 2270cc engine producing 185 HP. Testing consisted of approximately 800 mi on each oil, with a complete oil system purge (including external oil lines and oil cooler) and a new Mobil 1 oil filter to ensure the best level of filtration possible.
We are also testing both virgin oil samples and samples that have been run both in aircooled and water-cooled engines, to evaluate their performance in different operating conditions. These tests have helped us to better recommend oils to customers based on their driving habits and operating conditions.
Lastly, we will be dyno testing a wide array of oils side by side to see if we can find any horsepower differences between different oils, and again to do used oil analysis on these oils to see if we can find any real differences.
What should I do if I have an older, higher mileage engine and want to use a synthetic motor oil?
Most synthetic oils are now formulated with seal swelling agents to minimize leaks. Additionally, older engines may benefit from thicker viscosities and may have higher oil consumption, but you must take into consideration that Porsche allowed for as much as 1 quart of oil consumption per 700mi, so keep a consumption log if you are concerned about how much oil your engine is using. A worn engine may consume oils from blow-by through piston rings or sucked through worn guides. A leakdown test can help to isolate these problems more than a compression test. We do not recommend high-mileage oils because of the questionable formulation of these lubricants. I however did find that Castrol GTX High-Mileage 20w50 is a great oil, even better than the normal Castrol GTX 20w50 (higher viscosity and thermal sheer stability), with the same levels of anti-wear additives and none of the questionable additives I observed in various high-mileage oils and oil treatments.
Should I use a semi or partial -synthetic or full-synthetic motor oil?
First of all, save your money – don’t buy the hype of a partial or semi-synthetic. There are a very few exceptions. Brad Penn/Penn Grade Racing and some other "synthetic oils" are sold as a semi-synthetic as they use a hydrocracked parrifin base and are blended with PAOs and Esters, otherwise known as a Group III synthetic and are great choices for an aircooled engine unlike most synthetic blends that are more of a marketing ploy than anything else.
I've heard you cannot use synthetic gear lubes in VW and Porsche transaxles. Is that true?
There are many excellent choices for gear lubes, both synthetic and non-synthetic that are appropriate for use in our transaxles. I have had excellent success with the tried and true Swepco 201 product everyone has been using for years, but many do seek the benefits of a synthetic hypoid or gear lube. For transaxles that call for a GL-4 spec gear oil, I have had excellent results with Amsoil's fully synthetic GL-4 gear lube, not to be mistaken with a GL-5 spec lubricant. Another excellent GL-4 is manufactured by Redline, MT-90, which is a true GL-4 75w90 gear oil.
For transaxles that are compatible with GL-5 spec gear lube, you have many choices. Royal Purple makes an excellent Max Gear lubricant. I have also run Redline's 75w90NS in a 901-transaxle- this formulation does not have friction modifiers for limited slip differentials.
Another favorite of mine is Mobilube SHC 75w90, not to be mistaken with the Mobil 1 gear lube found at your local flaps. This stuff is the factory GL-5 fill from Porsche in all their race cars and is an industry standard in semi / mixed fleets. Although hard to find in quantities less than 55 gallons, we have found a fellow Porsche enthusiast and vendor who carries it in gallon sizes, perfect for our transaxles, available from Lufteknic. You cannot go wrong with Mobilube SHC or any of the aforementioned gear lubes. I now use the Mobilube SHC exclusively in all my transmissions that call for GL-5.
What viscosity motor oil should I use?
You should always refer to your owner's manual for the recommended grade and viscosity of oil to be used in any engine. That said, for most Porsche owners, Mobil 1 0w40 provides the widest range of protection year-round and for vehicles with sufficient oil cooling capacity. Some owners may find that Mobil 1 15w50 is satisfactory for year round use, but below 15F, you probably should use Mobil 1 0w40 for better cold start protection. These oils are referenced for their viscosities - regardless, if the Zn and P levels are insufficient, you should use GM EOS at time of oil change. You should always run as thin an oil as is needed for given oil pressures and oil temperatures an engine sees with running clearances in mind. Most engines shouldn't run anything lighter than 0w40 regardless of the fact that Porsche requires that any motor oil used have a min 3.5 cSt HTHS viscosity, so keep that in mind when choosing a lubricant lighter than 15w40, such as a 5w40, 0w40, or even a 0w30. Most 0w30 oils do not have a HTHS viscosity above 3.5 cSt. Brad Penn Racing 0w30 and Mobil 1 R 0w30 are two exceptions to that rule when it comes to HTHS viscosities. Additionally, as long as you keep levels between 0.12-0.14%, there should be no long term problems with catalytic converters, regardless of viscosity.
Motor oils are superior today than what was available even a decade ago. Why does it matter what oil I use in my aircooled engine since they are "better" than what was offered when my engine was new?
Yes, most do agree that motor oils and the additives used today are more advanced than what was available in the 50s, 60s, and 70s for sure. That said, modern motor oils are governed by requirements dictated by auto manufacturers and API standards (among other standard bodies). Most modern engines are water cooled, not aircooled. Also worth noting is the actual oil capacity of modern engines. Dry sumps with 10+ quarts are more common, providing larger amounts of oil (and hence additives), which allow for the longer drain intervals. Even wet sump vehicles have come to have larger fill capacities, like diesels and even VW's W8 and W12, all of which take 10+ quarts of oil to fill their wet sumps. And even then, there are specific requirements of what oil can be used. The additives take longer to break down and most engines have oil to water coolers, meaning oil temperatures can be careful controlled, unlike in an aircooled engine.
There obviously are exceptions to this- turbos are one exception that comes to mind. The oil used to cool (and lubricate) the turbos sees tremendous oil temperatures. Diesel engines also run higher oil temperatures than their gasoline fueled bretheren. Other examples are small displacement/high horsepower/high rpm engines, like BMWs M3 and M5, just to name two. They vary by manufacturer, but many have specific requirements when it comes to motor oils. Most encompass the need for a very high TBN or total base number for long drain intervals, among other wear factors.
Porsche recommends 15,000 mi intervals on their newest watercooled engines, as does most every german auto manufacturer. It is not extended drain intervals that we are so concerned with, but rather the thermal sheer stability, viscosity, and film strength of our motor oils, as aircooled engines are much more demanding on the oils used in them, even more so aircooled engines with turbos and aircooled motorcycles such as Harleys. The other issue with mileage and time intervals are driving habits leading to the formation of deposit or break-down of the oil from contamination.
A rampant problem is sludge formation. Many manufacturers have turned to synthetic oils to fight the formation of sludge, requiring owners to use synthetics meeting manufacturers stringent specifications due to the contamination, high oil temperatures, extended drain intervals, and reduced sump capacities. Visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_sludge for a list of cars suffering sludge formation and you can see this is a big deal. Another excellent link on sludge formation is http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm. The demand for specific oils capable of even the most severe operating conditions is a great example of how all oils are not created equal and some are bettter than others. One good example of this is the Volkswagen Group Oil Specifications, including but not limited to 500.00, 501.01, 502.00, 503.00, 503.01, 505.00, 506.00, and 506.01, all of which pertain to oil requirements. VW also has a 504.00 and 507.00 specification to top things off. Who knew oil could be so confusing?
Another consideration is that modern oils are for the most part designed with increasing the longevity of emissions control devices, not making your engine last longer.
I want to learn more about how motor oils are evaluated. How is valve train wear tested for and measured? What other key factors go into evaluating a motor oils performance that pertains to my Porshce?
The most stringent test used in evaluating ACEA A1, A3, and A5 as well as B and C series seque is the Peugeot TU3M Valve Train Scuffing Wear Evaluation test (CEC L-38-A-94). At its peak, the engine is operated at 3,000 rpm at oil temperatures of 212F (100C) for 60 hours (100 hours combined). The camshaft and rocker lobes, similar to the setup in an aircooled Porsche 911, are limited to an average wear of 10 micrometers and max wear of 15 micrometers.
A more stingent test is the Mitsubishi 4D34T4 (JASO M345:1999) valvetrain test for JASO DH-1, with a max 95 micrometers cam wear. Total wear is similar to limits permitted in current CI-4 and CJ-4 oils, but this particular test is done at 105C for 160 hours at a steady full load at max power for the full 160 hours. Above specifications as reported by the Southwest Research Institute for the Peugeot and Mitsubishi test sequences.
The European ACEA A1, A2, A3, B2, B3, and B4 classifications plate a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%. Additionally, ACEA A2 and A3 sequences require higher high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosities, stay in grade sheer stability, and tighter limits on evaporative loss, high temperature oxidation, and piston varnish. This makes oils meeting these ACEA standards that much better for your Porsche, especially since wear limits are much more stringent for valve train wear, 1/6th to 1/4th the wear allowed in the sequences for API's SM standard. Porsche requires a minimum 3.5 cSt @ 150C HTHS viscosity, which is a good measure of the protection any given motor oil provides. For the JASO JPI-5S-36 test procedure, a high temperature high shear viscosity of 2.9 mPa s min is required with shear stability performance less than that required of the ACEA sequences, so it's best to look for an ACEA A2 or A3 in addition to any other classifications for a motor oil. It's worth mentioning that the JASO test also has friction tests for addressing wet clutch requirements with a JASO-MA and MB, each testing its friction characteristic with respect to performance with wet clutches and the effect of friction modifiers on these clutches, but since we're not worried with this for Porsche engines, I won't elaborate. There is a new ACEA A5 classification for extended drain intervals using low viscosity low friction motor oils also requiring a HTHS viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa s. The A5 classification may not be suitable for an engine calling for an A3 or earlier and may not offer the same performance, where the A3 calls for a min 3.5 mPa s HTHS vis. Most test sequences and limits remain the same between A1 and A5 ACEA classifications except where the A3 and A5 add a sequence for DI (direct injection) piston & cleanliness & ring sticking and A3 and A5 oils have lower evaporative loss limit and all grades must stay in grade at 100C for 30 cycles, where an A1 does not.
What oil filter should I use?
It is very common to see the factory oil filter be the most recommended, and in our case it's usually a Mahle or Mann oil filter. For sure, it does meet the manufacturer's specifications, but we can do better. My filter of choice is the Mobil 1 branded filter. It has a synthetic filter media, anti-drainback valve, and is one of the best constructed filters I have seen, second to the K&N Gold filter which flows more and has a higher burst strength, but doesn’t filter particles as small as does the Mobil 1. For any oil, regardless of non-synthetic or synthetic and your drain interval, I would recommend using Mobil-1's filter. Amsoil also sells a great filter for extended drain intervals in an exceptionally well made housing with a quality synthetic filtration element. Steer clear of paper element filters that are densely packed, which filter well, but clog fast and restrict oil flow. Use a quality filter and change them often, especially when using extended drain intervals, based on the size of the filtration element. Personally, I might change the filter every 3000-5000 mi and top off the oil on a 12,000-15,000 mi a year drain interval for example. Larger filters, like on a late 911, can probably go 7,500mi or 6 months between changes. For further reading on the subject of oil filters, visit these sites:
• http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
• http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
• http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
• http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html
What if my engine does not have filtration?
Most stock engines have a spin on or cartridge style oil filter. In the majority of those cases, it's a bypass filter, where only a small portion of the oil actually goes through the filter. It's the idea that the oil is constantly filtering, so eventually all the oil will get filtered. With full flow filtration, 100% of the oil goes through the filter. This does however require very high quality filters with HIGH burst strengths and durable construction, especially of the internal filtration media, because what's the point of full filtration if the media just bursts and lets the contaminants out and doesn't filter the oil? There are a great number of high quality filters that can stand up to the task, two of which are mentioned above. The Porsche 911 is one exception, as with it’s dry sump system, 100% of the oil gets filtered, unlike earlier canister bypass systems as found on the Porsche 356 and 912, as well as with the spin-on filters on the Porsche 914.
For the 356 and 912, I use and recommend Precision Matter's full flow setups, either with an external filter in a full flow configuration or their newest spin-on filter pump cover version. This allows for complete filtration of engine oil, making the use of a synthetic oil more cost effective and allowing for longer drain intervals than normally feasible with the factory bypass filtration.
I highly recommend that all VW Type 1 engines have full flow filtration - the stock oil strainer does not count.
For the Porsche 914, Aircooled Technology offers a full-flow kit where the stock filter gets bypassed and 100% of the engine oil gets filtered with an externally mounted filter. In both cases, this allows the additional plumbing of oil coolers and an accusump for track use.
What fuel system cleaner, lead additive, or octane booster should I use?
Fuel system cleaners are widely available from dozens of companies, all promising everything from helping you to pass emissions testing to increasing octane. Many do little more than put a drain on your wallet. In most cases, using a quality pump premium formulation is the best thing you can do for your engine, regardless of octane requirements. Most modern engines and fuel management systems can adjust for the increased octane and provide improved fuel economy and horsepower, so even though the octane requirement may be 87 or 91 octane, it can benefit from 93 octane.
If you want to use a fuel system cleaner, use one that meets OEM requirements and is actually used by OEMs. Redline makes a fuel system cleaner that is good for both fuel injected and carbeurated engines, called SI-1. They also make a lead substitute, called just that, Lead Substitute, that also cleans your fuel system and is safe for injectors and catalytic convertors. Both are excellent products ok for continuous use or occasional cleanings. Another product endorsed by many Porsche owners is Chevron's Techron Fuel System cleaner. There are many versions of this cleaner, but it is the most expensive one (with the highest % of technron) that does the trick. The only caveat is that many owners recommend this cleaner should be used just before you change your oil, as the fuel system cleaner can contaminate your motor oil.
If you need to boost your octane, again, if you have access to race gas, that's your best bet for a guaranteed octane boost. That said, Torco makes two race gas concentrates. One is unleaded and safe for use with catalytic converters and for street use and the other is leaded (with real lead) for OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. For example, 10 gallons of pump premium blended with 1/3rd of a bottle of either concentrate yields roughly 98 octane. In my own personal testing, the engine ran smoother and the plugs were cleaner when running their race gas concentrate, as it helps the fuel burn more completely and cleaner, regardless of the fact that it did make my carbureted engine run richer. A multiple-spark discharge or twin-plug configuration would help combustion further.
________________________________________

References and Acknowledgements
Oil Analysis Results. Staveley Services North America.
Engine Lubrication System. STP. http://www.stp.com/bmc_lub.html
4-Stroke Motor Oil. Valvoline. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=76
All About Motor Oil. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils.html
Internet BMW Riders- Is this the right oil for my bike? http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...e-using-5.html.
http://www.hw.ac.uk/mecwww/research/csi.htm.
http://www.utamagazine.uta.edu/fall_...scoveries.html.
Lubricant Additive Interactions, Surface Reactions and the Link to Tribological Performance in Engines. J.H. Green, A. Morina, M. Priest, A. Neville. Institute of Tribology, School of Mechanical Engineering, The University of Leeds, Leeds.
Bussy, Lee C. Oil and the Harley-Davidson. http://www.xlrator.com.
All About Motor Oil. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils.html
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...rerid=&t=90881
Motorcycling- The Honda V4 Files and More. http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/oil_opinion.html
A.T.I.S. FAQ on Motor Oils. http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
Interpretation of experiments on ZDDP anti-wear films through pressure-induced cross-linking. N.J. Mosey. Tribology Letters 0 (2005).
Myths and Legends 1. Zinc, Diesel Oils and API. Pennrite. Technical Bulletin No 85 May 2005.
Amrep. http://www.amrep.com/misty/lubrica2.htm
Any information you may receive related to this web site is provided merely as friendly suggestions, not as expert opinion, testimony or advice. Neither LN Enginering nor Charles Navarro endorses or sponsors any information, products or methodologies you may find herein.
The test results contained herein come with no guarantee, even for a product with the same name, date code, API code, or lot number - there can and will be variations depending on the sample and who is doing the testing. Only the individual companies can assure that, and only they can report their specs.

Contact us at 815-472-2939 or info@LNengineering.com to bring your “tried and true" Aircooled engine to the new standard of precision performance!

Aardwolf

There have been some huge threads on this over in C4 tech, with links to the bobistheoilguy site for even more data. It looked like it would not cost a lot to use the GM EOS to add the additives back in. Some of the early C4 have flat tappet cams where the zinc seems to be most important. Here are some links:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=EOS

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=EOS

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=EOS

Thanks for the data, there is a lot there to read through!

In the above post they have their link and it is in a easier to read format there.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

davidfarmer

I just use the CHEAPEST GM4718 oil I can find. For track, I use the heaviest 4718 oil I can find, currently Syntec 10w40. I had some 5w50 (I think) but now when I shop for it, it doesn't list being 4718 compatible.

Good info....but more than I want to digest

NEO1

https://www.amsoil.com/dealer/techse...shaft_lube.pdf

Amsoil addresses the reduction in zddp in this tsb. I know one of the formulators on bobistheoilguy and I can tell you that using boron in with lower amounts of zinc and phosphorus actually is a better anti-wear package than high zddp alone. At least this is what I was told.

John Shiels

doubt my motor will die from old age in any case

rws.1

Shell Rotella T full synthetic 5W40

C66 Racing

For the reasons listed above, last season I switched to a 10w40 Marine Motor oil which meets API SL specifications but not the newer SM spec. As a result, it has a higher High Temp High Shear rating. As a side benefit, it has anti-rust additives that help in my track car which sits idle for long periods of time.

AMSOIL SAE 10w40 Formula 4-Stroke Marine Synthetic Motor Oil

ghoffman

Is it available in lighter versions?

C66 Racing

AMSOIL SAE 10w30 Formula 4-Stroke Marine Synthetic Motor Oil

If you are interested, I can easily set you up with a retail account based on your business which would allow you to buy at wholesale, same price I pay as a dealer. There is no annual fee for retail accounts, though there is a $100 order a year requirement to keep the account active. There are several requirements on advertising and online sales which I can PM you if you are interested.

AMSOIL Retail On-The-Shelf Accounts

MY03Vette

Just read this on the SRT8 forum. Kinda surprised me. Have to look into is some more.

So the GMEOS is just added to the current Mobil 1 after a change to get the removed additives?

aggie_corvette

Thats what the writer of the article suggested but it is still better to find and oil with the proper mix.
As mentioned Amsoil is good and here are some other options from the article.
Name Vis P (ppm) Zn (ppm) B (ppm) Detergents (ppm) API Date Type Source
Delvac 1, 5w40 1390 1803 76 2583 CI-4 5-Nov SYN Staveley
Mobil 1 mx4t, 10w40 1411 1623 188 2248 SG 7-Apr SYN Blackstone
Mobil 1 Truck & SUV, 5w40 1034 1247 51 2826 CI-4 7-Apr SYN Blackstone
Rotella, 5w40 1397 1552 2921 CI-4 5-Nov SYN Staveley

C66 Racing

Those are all API CI-4+ diesel oils which don't have the same limits on ZDDP. FYI, AMSOIL makes several diesel oils as well including a 5w30 which isn't very common in the diesel oil market:
AMSOIL Series 3000 Synthetic 5w30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil
AMSOIL SAE 15w40 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil

Note that the EPA/API have placed similar limits on 07 and later diesels and there is a new diesel oil spec that does have similar limits, the API CJ-4 standard. For track use, I would stay away from these newer diesel oils and use the older CI-4+ for the same reasons as mentioned above for API SM vs API SL in automotive oils. AMSOIL currently intends to retain the above listed CI-4+ diesel oils and has released separate CJ-4 diesel oils. If you are buying over the counter oils, I'd ensure you check the label closely and look for CI-4+ and not CJ-4.