Used open trailer options
05-16-2007, 11:26 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Used open trailer options
I may have resolved my Z06 transport problems. My father just bought a full sized Jeep Grand Cheeroke with a Hemi. I assume this vehicle is up the task of towing a trailer and 3000lb car?
If so, I would like to look into an inexpensive used trailer at first. I don't want to buy a new expensive trailer until I get some experience towing.
Are there any websites where you can look at/buy used open car trailers? I imagine there must be thousands of used trailers for sale, but I can't seem to find any...
If so, I would like to look into an inexpensive used trailer at first. I don't want to buy a new expensive trailer until I get some experience towing.
Are there any websites where you can look at/buy used open car trailers? I imagine there must be thousands of used trailers for sale, but I can't seem to find any...
05-16-2007, 11:41 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
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05-16-2007, 12:14 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
05-16-2007, 12:22 PM
#4
Team Owner
One of the problems with finding used car trailers is that they pretty much appear to "be rode hard and put away wet". I looked at a bunch before buying new.
Cosmetic appearnace of a used trailer is one thing, but you still have to worry about the condition of the bearings, brakes, and the tires. If these items need replacing, you could wind up paying nearly as much as the cost of a new trailer. If you are considering trailers with a wood deck, then check the wood out carefully; it may look new or clean on top, but the underside also has to be checked.
Do a search on "trailer" or "car trailer" in this section and you should be able to find some info on good brand-new trailers at a reasonable price. (edit: This one has been mentioned by others http://www.econotrailer.com/CAR.html They are located in PA) I have read threads here where people have picked up new trailers for around $1400 or so. If you wind up with a used trailer that needs work, you could easily shell out a grand for brakes, bearings and new tires.
Whatever you decide, get a trailer with brakes on BOTH axles. Each axle shoud be 3500lb capacity. How high are the fenders over the deck? On your car, measure the distance from the bottom edge of the driver's door when open to the ground. If the traielr fenders are higher than that, you will need a removeable fender or something like 2x12's on the deck to be able to get the door open once loaded. A dovetail of about 2 feet is a big help with cars with low ground clearance like C5's. Go with an 18' length (16' deck, 2" dovetail).
Does the trailer have tie-downs at each corner? You may have to have tie-down rings placed so you can tie the car down.
To determind if your Jeep will handle the load, the owner's manual should have information on towing capacity. If not, ckeck with the dealer. You wil need the weight of the trailer, the car, and estimated weight of all cargo that will go in the Jeep to determine the total vehicle load capacity.
Does the Jeep have a factory towing package? You will need a large tranny cooler, HD radiator, big battery and alternator, wiring for a 7-pin trailer harness, and a trailer brake controller (get a Tekonsha Prodigy controller; it's plug and play and wiring harness for it are available ready-made
), and a Class III hitch at a minimum.
I use my 99 Silverado Z71 half-ton with the 5.3 motor to tow my 87 coupe (3400lbs) and steel trailer (2000lbs). My truck is rated for 7800lbs tow weight and I feel that I'm close to the maximum weight I should really be pulling with it.
Cosmetic appearnace of a used trailer is one thing, but you still have to worry about the condition of the bearings, brakes, and the tires. If these items need replacing, you could wind up paying nearly as much as the cost of a new trailer. If you are considering trailers with a wood deck, then check the wood out carefully; it may look new or clean on top, but the underside also has to be checked.
Do a search on "trailer" or "car trailer" in this section and you should be able to find some info on good brand-new trailers at a reasonable price. (edit: This one has been mentioned by others http://www.econotrailer.com/CAR.html They are located in PA) I have read threads here where people have picked up new trailers for around $1400 or so. If you wind up with a used trailer that needs work, you could easily shell out a grand for brakes, bearings and new tires.
Whatever you decide, get a trailer with brakes on BOTH axles. Each axle shoud be 3500lb capacity. How high are the fenders over the deck? On your car, measure the distance from the bottom edge of the driver's door when open to the ground. If the traielr fenders are higher than that, you will need a removeable fender or something like 2x12's on the deck to be able to get the door open once loaded. A dovetail of about 2 feet is a big help with cars with low ground clearance like C5's. Go with an 18' length (16' deck, 2" dovetail).
Does the trailer have tie-downs at each corner? You may have to have tie-down rings placed so you can tie the car down.
To determind if your Jeep will handle the load, the owner's manual should have information on towing capacity. If not, ckeck with the dealer. You wil need the weight of the trailer, the car, and estimated weight of all cargo that will go in the Jeep to determine the total vehicle load capacity.
Does the Jeep have a factory towing package? You will need a large tranny cooler, HD radiator, big battery and alternator, wiring for a 7-pin trailer harness, and a trailer brake controller (get a Tekonsha Prodigy controller; it's plug and play and wiring harness for it are available ready-made
), and a Class III hitch at a minimum. I use my 99 Silverado Z71 half-ton with the 5.3 motor to tow my 87 coupe (3400lbs) and steel trailer (2000lbs). My truck is rated for 7800lbs tow weight and I feel that I'm close to the maximum weight I should really be pulling with it.
Last edited by c4cruiser; 05-16-2007 at 12:25 PM.
05-16-2007, 01:19 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Apparently the Jeep has a towing package and can handle about 6800lbs.
The car weights 3125'ish, and let's say the trailer weights 1500lbs, that's 4625. I figure another 200-300 lbs of stuff in the back of the SUV. Does this mean I am within my safety zone?
The car weights 3125'ish, and let's say the trailer weights 1500lbs, that's 4625. I figure another 200-300 lbs of stuff in the back of the SUV. Does this mean I am within my safety zone?
05-16-2007, 01:52 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I'll see what the story is there!...man this forum rocks.
Someone tell me about the remote brake controller...sorry yes I am a towing novice.
Do I need this? how much, how does it work, where does it mount?
05-16-2007, 02:04 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
You're golden! That Jeep will put your open trailer and car just fine. Try to get a trailer with a tire rack so the weight of the tires/wheels is on the trailer, not in the back of your tow vehicle.
05-16-2007, 02:04 PM
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
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CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
I'll be towing my car on an open trailer w/ my 2004 GMC canyon extended cab. Has an I-5, tow package, etc.
I added rear air springs, an extra trans cooler, and a 7-pin upgrade. You'll be fine in the Jeep.
The tow rating on my truck is 4000 lbs stock w/ the soft rear suspension. I'll be asking it to yank about 700lbs more than that so I modded it.
I added rear air springs, an extra trans cooler, and a 7-pin upgrade. You'll be fine in the Jeep.
The tow rating on my truck is 4000 lbs stock w/ the soft rear suspension. I'll be asking it to yank about 700lbs more than that so I modded it.
05-17-2007, 10:16 PM
#12
My advice.....
If you can afford to put a bit more money into it, look for a used all-aluminum trailer. They dont rust, they're lighter and they will hold their value like a bank CD. I know it's more money but in the long run it won't cost you any more as you'll recover most if not all of the difference in value and experience less depreciation on the the whole amount.
I know for some, spending the extra $2k is not practical but for most it is possible. Stretch and you won't be disappointed. You should be able to find a good used aluminum trailer for $3000-3500. I sold a used Featherlite for $3500 and it was in very good shape (I bought an enclosed all aluminum Optima).
If you can afford to put a bit more money into it, look for a used all-aluminum trailer. They dont rust, they're lighter and they will hold their value like a bank CD. I know it's more money but in the long run it won't cost you any more as you'll recover most if not all of the difference in value and experience less depreciation on the the whole amount.
I know for some, spending the extra $2k is not practical but for most it is possible. Stretch and you won't be disappointed. You should be able to find a good used aluminum trailer for $3000-3500. I sold a used Featherlite for $3500 and it was in very good shape (I bought an enclosed all aluminum Optima).
05-17-2007, 11:23 PM
#13
Race Director
Well, if you're in Jersey, you can try J & C Campers on rt 539 in Cream Ridge, two doors down from ECS. Ask for Chris, honest family business. all kinds of trailers, great service/prices. Brake boost controller supplied and installed 160.00. full size 8ft medium rise top for my pickuptruck with a bed liner, supplied and installed $1100.00. 
05-18-2007, 11:38 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the advice. I think I will rent a few times before I buy. It is fairly cheap, and I can get a personal feel as to what I like and don't like.
Once, I decide to buy, I have to find a way to get this thing into my backyard without tearing up my nice grass in the process, I would hate to drive over my perfect lawn with a truck and trailer. For those who store their trailers in their back yards and don't own 1+ acre of property, what do you do? Can a 19hp riding lawn mower pull this thing out to the street so I don't have to drive an SUV over my front lawn? Storing in the garage is out of the question. I have my Z on one side and full workout area on the other.
Once, I decide to buy, I have to find a way to get this thing into my backyard without tearing up my nice grass in the process, I would hate to drive over my perfect lawn with a truck and trailer. For those who store their trailers in their back yards and don't own 1+ acre of property, what do you do? Can a 19hp riding lawn mower pull this thing out to the street so I don't have to drive an SUV over my front lawn? Storing in the garage is out of the question. I have my Z on one side and full workout area on the other.
05-18-2007, 01:05 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thanks for all the advice. I think I will rent a few times before I buy. It is fairly cheap, and I can get a personal feel as to what I like and don't like.
Once, I decide to buy, I have to find a way to get this thing into my backyard without tearing up my nice grass in the process, I would hate to drive over my perfect lawn with a truck and trailer. For those who store their trailers in their back yards and don't own 1+ acre of property, what do you do? Can a 19hp riding lawn mower pull this thing out to the street so I don't have to drive an SUV over my front lawn? Storing in the garage is out of the question. I have my Z on one side and full workout area on the other.
Once, I decide to buy, I have to find a way to get this thing into my backyard without tearing up my nice grass in the process, I would hate to drive over my perfect lawn with a truck and trailer. For those who store their trailers in their back yards and don't own 1+ acre of property, what do you do? Can a 19hp riding lawn mower pull this thing out to the street so I don't have to drive an SUV over my front lawn? Storing in the garage is out of the question. I have my Z on one side and full workout area on the other.
I back mine over blue kentucky sod onto a crushed rock area in the side yard without a problem. Put in 4 wheel to avoid spinning tires. Driving over wet grass conditions isnt advisable.
05-18-2007, 02:06 PM
#16
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
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My advice.....
If you can afford to put a bit more money into it, look for a used all-aluminum trailer. They dont rust, they're lighter and they will hold their value like a bank CD. I know it's more money but in the long run it won't cost you any more as you'll recover most if not all of the difference in value and experience less depreciation on the the whole amount.
I know for some, spending the extra $2k is not practical but for most it is possible. Stretch and you won't be disappointed. You should be able to find a good used aluminum trailer for $3000-3500. I sold a used Featherlite for $3500 and it was in very good shape (I bought an enclosed all aluminum Optima).
If you can afford to put a bit more money into it, look for a used all-aluminum trailer. They dont rust, they're lighter and they will hold their value like a bank CD. I know it's more money but in the long run it won't cost you any more as you'll recover most if not all of the difference in value and experience less depreciation on the the whole amount.
I know for some, spending the extra $2k is not practical but for most it is possible. Stretch and you won't be disappointed. You should be able to find a good used aluminum trailer for $3000-3500. I sold a used Featherlite for $3500 and it was in very good shape (I bought an enclosed all aluminum Optima).
Had a similar experience with my previous Featherlite trailer, too. The net cost of an aluminum trailer turns out to be less than most steel trailers when factoring the purchase and sale price difference.
05-18-2007, 06:25 PM
#17
Instructor
Thanks for all the advice. I think I will rent a few times before I buy. It is fairly cheap, and I can get a personal feel as to what I like and don't like.
Once, I decide to buy, I have to find a way to get this thing into my backyard without tearing up my nice grass in the process, I would hate to drive over my perfect lawn with a truck and trailer. For those who store their trailers in their back yards and don't own 1+ acre of property, what do you do? Can a 19hp riding lawn mower pull this thing out to the street so I don't have to drive an SUV over my front lawn? Storing in the garage is out of the question. I have my Z on one side and full workout area on the other.
Once, I decide to buy, I have to find a way to get this thing into my backyard without tearing up my nice grass in the process, I would hate to drive over my perfect lawn with a truck and trailer. For those who store their trailers in their back yards and don't own 1+ acre of property, what do you do? Can a 19hp riding lawn mower pull this thing out to the street so I don't have to drive an SUV over my front lawn? Storing in the garage is out of the question. I have my Z on one side and full workout area on the other.
I move a VERY heavy open trailer (homebuilt, with 2 mobile home axles, big toolbox, etc...) around my yard with an old 11hp JD lawn tractor, and it has no problems moving it whatsoever.
DaveZ.
