Goodrige SS lines w/ AN fittings from VBP, anyone else have them? Rear lines tight!
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Goodrige SS lines w/ AN fittings from VBP, anyone else have them? Rear lines tight!
Help me put my mind at ease... have the lines off the car in the middle of putting fresh brakes on.
The rears are the same length as OEM (I checked) but they really stretch tight when the suspension is at full droop.
I used to have the goodrige lines w/ banjo bolts, and those had plenty of slack. However, I used to get the SERVICE AH, SERVICE TC, ETC error message. Then... back in '04 I broke one at Viperdays changing brakes in the pits.
So... I went w/ the lines w/ the AN fittings purchased from VBP. Is anyone else running them?
Here's how they now look off the car... any worries? They fronts are completely fine.
The rears are the same length as OEM (I checked) but they really stretch tight when the suspension is at full droop.
I used to have the goodrige lines w/ banjo bolts, and those had plenty of slack. However, I used to get the SERVICE AH, SERVICE TC, ETC error message. Then... back in '04 I broke one at Viperdays changing brakes in the pits.
So... I went w/ the lines w/ the AN fittings purchased from VBP. Is anyone else running them?
Here's how they now look off the car... any worries? They fronts are completely fine.
Last edited by Cobra4B; 05-10-2007 at 10:07 AM.
#4
Burning Brakes
I Just had to replace both front Goodridge ss lines..Both of em folded and kinked the line. Went with Russel lines and they seem to be a little better at keeping the line from kinking. Have not seen the ones that you show...no banjo?
Last edited by JVetthead; 05-10-2007 at 02:07 PM. Reason: went with Russel not earls
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I used to have the "normal" Goodrige lines and those had plenty of slack (used banjos).
Oh... and I fixed the pics.
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My fear is that top line breaking one day... is that even possible?
Randy how are the SS lines constructed... I'm assuming the rubber/braided runs all the way down to the line end, and that 3/4" grey "sleeve" is the clap holding it together, then the lighter grey plastic cone thing is there to prevent the line from rubbing on the "sleeve" and chaffing trough ???
#7
FWIW, I've had the SS Mallett lines ("short" rear lines) with AN fittings on my '02 for 4 years and have had no problems. Would not expect any unless you get airborne and then the brakes are the least of your worries! Good luck!
#8
after reading the other post that said his "kinked" and my instructor demolishing his z06 because of a GOODRIDGE SS brake line failure at the crimp, and YOU saying they are tight in full suspension travel, I would NOT use them! Return them and get something better made.
I can send you a picture of a 2004 z06, what it looks like AFTER running into a tire barrier at 120mph at VIR, from a brake line failure (Goodridge) if you care to see.
-his failed at the crimp as shown in your picture above.
I have Russel lines, bought from Summit Racing. I have not noticed any problem with them in about 10 months of use, with 4 track days in that time.
I can send you a picture of a 2004 z06, what it looks like AFTER running into a tire barrier at 120mph at VIR, from a brake line failure (Goodridge) if you care to see.
-his failed at the crimp as shown in your picture above.
I have Russel lines, bought from Summit Racing. I have not noticed any problem with them in about 10 months of use, with 4 track days in that time.
Last edited by 2000BSME; 05-10-2007 at 11:50 AM.
#10
-I've been airborne before, twice as a matter of fact, and believe me, it is nice to have working brakes when you come down.
#11
#12
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btw, to finish my thought on OEM lines. Assuming they are installed correct, and can't rub anything, they are VERY strong. They can stretch if the need to (SS can't), the tubing is very thick and re-inforced, and even if the pedal is a tiny bit softer with rubber.
I've seen more than a few sets of C5 brake lines installed incorrectly...even did it myself once. Unless it is an all-out World Challenge car, I'm decided that I trust the DOT rubber more than the stainless. Just my $.02 worth.
I've seen more than a few sets of C5 brake lines installed incorrectly...even did it myself once. Unless it is an all-out World Challenge car, I'm decided that I trust the DOT rubber more than the stainless. Just my $.02 worth.
#13
Point taken.
#14
Melting Slicks
I have StopTech SS lines with banjo fittings. The fronts have plenty of slack even at full droop. The rears don't at full droop, but they don't tug on the fitting either. There is still a bit of slack left. All 4 corners are banjo style, came with their own bolts and crush washers. The ends ahead of the banjo have a plastic collar that stops you from folding/kinking them over. The whole SS line has a teflon coating on it. I've been running them for about 8 events so far. They still look new.
Not sure if it is the same person or not that 2000BSME is referring to. But the person I know had the Goodridge SS lines on his Z06. One front line blew under braking for T1 at VIR. He cleared both tire walls and made a mess out of his car. I stay away from Goodridge. I also carefully inspect my lines every time I swap pads for a track weekend. Then again when I swap street pads back in.
The thought of having no brakes at the end of a long straight has scared me since I started doing this more than most things.
The StopTechs cost about $150 or so for a set. I got them via PFYC.
Not sure if it is the same person or not that 2000BSME is referring to. But the person I know had the Goodridge SS lines on his Z06. One front line blew under braking for T1 at VIR. He cleared both tire walls and made a mess out of his car. I stay away from Goodridge. I also carefully inspect my lines every time I swap pads for a track weekend. Then again when I swap street pads back in.
The thought of having no brakes at the end of a long straight has scared me since I started doing this more than most things.
The StopTechs cost about $150 or so for a set. I got them via PFYC.
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
got mine direct from StopTech
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