Noob Brake Question
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Noob Brake Question
Im getting ready for my first Auto-X event May 26-28. Its the 21 event 3 day one. I already have the Baer rotors, and Im putting Z06 rears and Hp+ pads on the front. Now what kind of brake fluid should I do? ATE Blue or something else?
I also have never bleed a brake system myself so Ill either find a mechanic buddy or harass you all again
This car is also my DD if that matters
I also have never bleed a brake system myself so Ill either find a mechanic buddy or harass you all again
This car is also my DD if that matters
#2
Race Director
Unless you want to change the fluid often, use one with a high wet boiling point. This way the fluid can stay in longer and still be of track use. Bleeding the brakes is pretty easy. You need a helper or get a Motive bleeder.
#3
Team Owner
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
What would be a good high wet boiling point fluid?
Also how much do I need? There is a semi-local place that sells the ATE Blue, but I dunno how much we hold.
Also how much do I need? There is a semi-local place that sells the ATE Blue, but I dunno how much we hold.
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2001
Location: sebring florida
Posts: 18,005
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dang man, the p+ pads would have been better but the pads you got are pretty good for first day.
I am not an authority on brake fluid but imho, being your first day, you can probably get away with off-the-shelf fluid. head to local auto parts store and get a couple small bottles of what ever has the highest wet and dry boiling points. or order some better fluid online.
bleed your brakes within days (ideally day of) of your event. simple process but takes 2 people unless you have speed bleeders. if you think you may do regular track days in the future, might want to invest in a set of speed bleeders. make sure you and your helper are on the same page, very important.
I press the brake pedal, mechanic breaks/tightens the bleeder--he says "down", I apply pressure, he breaks the bleeder, my foot goes to the floor and then I say "DOWN". then he tightens the bleeder and says "up" and I release pressure till the pedal comes all the way up and then I say "UP". make sure you and your helper are very clear on that so you don't get air in the system. should take 4 or 5 solid pumps to get fresh fluid to each wheel.
also, between sessions, do NOT use your e-brake. do a thorough cool-down lap and use the brakes as little as possible in that process. when you park the car, block it with wood chucks and after it sits a few minutes, roll it a couple feet so the heat from your pads/calipers doesn't warp the rotors.
I am not an authority on brake fluid but imho, being your first day, you can probably get away with off-the-shelf fluid. head to local auto parts store and get a couple small bottles of what ever has the highest wet and dry boiling points. or order some better fluid online.
bleed your brakes within days (ideally day of) of your event. simple process but takes 2 people unless you have speed bleeders. if you think you may do regular track days in the future, might want to invest in a set of speed bleeders. make sure you and your helper are on the same page, very important.
I press the brake pedal, mechanic breaks/tightens the bleeder--he says "down", I apply pressure, he breaks the bleeder, my foot goes to the floor and then I say "DOWN". then he tightens the bleeder and says "up" and I release pressure till the pedal comes all the way up and then I say "UP". make sure you and your helper are very clear on that so you don't get air in the system. should take 4 or 5 solid pumps to get fresh fluid to each wheel.
also, between sessions, do NOT use your e-brake. do a thorough cool-down lap and use the brakes as little as possible in that process. when you park the car, block it with wood chucks and after it sits a few minutes, roll it a couple feet so the heat from your pads/calipers doesn't warp the rotors.
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2001
Location: sebring florida
Posts: 18,005
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,076
Received 8,915 Likes
on
5,326 Posts
It is advisable to bleed the fluid if the car is several years old and the fluid hasn't been bled yet. However, braking at an autocross is not hard on the brakes and you can probably get by with water soaked DOT 3 in the brake system. In any autocross you are not going to spend more than a couple of minutes on the course and a lot of that time your foot isn't on the brake. The course is going to be less than a mile in length and the speeds are going to be lower than you think although there can be spurts to 80 mph a lot of time the speed is less than 50. Even if you run several timed laps in while on course the brakes are not going to get that hot. The time between runs can be quite long and the car has a chance to cool down. Being a novice you are not going to push the car anywhere close to the limit. Until I started doing track events I was one of the un-informed on how often brake fluid should be changed and went for years on the same fluid and never had a problem while autocrossing.
For your first autocross your focus should be on the driver and any focus on the car should be to make sure the brakes work, the wheels do not fall off and the steering column stays in place (I have seen some older Vettes where the steering column flopped around and the car wouldn't pass tech). Basically, what you should do whenever you take the car for a drive.
Bill
For your first autocross your focus should be on the driver and any focus on the car should be to make sure the brakes work, the wheels do not fall off and the steering column stays in place (I have seen some older Vettes where the steering column flopped around and the car wouldn't pass tech). Basically, what you should do whenever you take the car for a drive.
Bill
#10
Tech Contributor
#13
Race Director
As a Auto-X rookie last season, I used Valvoline Synpower DOT3& DOT 4 brake fluid.
At the time I ddid not have speed bleeders and what I did was just used a large syringe (made for adding 2 stroke oil into gasoline from Walmart) and sucked out my old fluid from the reservoir, added new fluid and drove the vehicle a day, repeated the process 3-4 times before the first Auto-x day and repeated it at the end of each Auto- x day...
It got me through the season. Over the winter , I installed speed bleeders( I splurged and bought the stainless ones) and flushed the system.
SB1010S-SS Speed Bleeder
M10 x 1.0 x 31.35 Stainless Steel Speed Bleeder Packaged with dust cap $15.00
At the time I ddid not have speed bleeders and what I did was just used a large syringe (made for adding 2 stroke oil into gasoline from Walmart) and sucked out my old fluid from the reservoir, added new fluid and drove the vehicle a day, repeated the process 3-4 times before the first Auto-x day and repeated it at the end of each Auto- x day...
It got me through the season. Over the winter , I installed speed bleeders( I splurged and bought the stainless ones) and flushed the system.
SB1010S-SS Speed Bleeder
M10 x 1.0 x 31.35 Stainless Steel Speed Bleeder Packaged with dust cap $15.00
#14
Race Director
I tried that that a few years back, the dirty fluid sits down at the calipers and doesn't get the fresh fluid. From that I found. I have asked the wife many times to press the brake pedal while I bleed the system, it works well and only takes us a few mins. Now that I am on the track more she is starting to protest, I'll have to get a Motive bleeder.
#15
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
I bought the steel bleeders too. So to use them I just do it normally (like posted above) except I just lean out of the car to watch for when new fluid comes out, do that on all four (im guessing one at a time). close the bleeders, add a little bit more to the reservoir and im good to go?
How much fluid does the vette hold? C5
How much fluid does the vette hold? C5
#17
Melting Slicks
Get the correct bleed order for your car and do 1 at a time. After each one is done check the reservoir. Add as needed. Done.
For AX any good Dot 3 - 4 fluid will be fine. Even for NCCC AX at Sanford where they run pretty wide open. Z06 or HP+ pads will be fine.
For AX any good Dot 3 - 4 fluid will be fine. Even for NCCC AX at Sanford where they run pretty wide open. Z06 or HP+ pads will be fine.
#18
Race Director
They should come with directions. For a complete flush, get two pints.
#19
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: MD
Posts: 767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
If you've installed the speed bleeders, check them for leaks before you start.
I think std bleeders are 10mm and speedbleeders are 3/8" or 7/16"
Do not overtighten!
Have about 16 oz of new fluid handy.
Ensure your MC is topped off with fresh fluid and keep the cover on but not screwed down.
Don't know your car year. On 2001+ is RR LF LR RF, I think it was different in earlier years ...
Have a bleeding hose and container. - remover rubber cover, slip your box end wrench on the bleeder, then attach the hose ... other end in container (I use an old plastic bottle with some old brake fluid in it ... stick the end of the bleeder hose into the fluid so no air.
Open 1/4 turn when bleeding.
If speed bleeders, then go pump; else use the procedure outlined above "down" "down" sync.
I do five -10 pumps, depending on how long since last bleed and whether getting ready for track or post-event. Then I close the bleeder, remove the hose, wipe the bleeder clean, re-install the rubber cap, and move on.
After each wheel, check MC, ensure fluid is up enough (as you get to third and fourth wheel, remember the target "full" level you want to be at and be just above that level when starting last wheel.
BTW ... there's the thing about doing a full flush of the system and the need for a TechII in one procedure (there are other methods). I went from DOT3 to DOT4 and had a corvette shop do a full flush on mine three years ago ... now I just flush and refill with DOT4.
As posted above ... fresh fluid and good pads are enough. Key on AutoX is to mentally imprint the course through course walk and have your attack plan memorized before you start. Bring some white shoe polish and mark the edges of your tires ... check for excessive rollover.
I think std bleeders are 10mm and speedbleeders are 3/8" or 7/16"
Do not overtighten!
Have about 16 oz of new fluid handy.
Ensure your MC is topped off with fresh fluid and keep the cover on but not screwed down.
Don't know your car year. On 2001+ is RR LF LR RF, I think it was different in earlier years ...
Have a bleeding hose and container. - remover rubber cover, slip your box end wrench on the bleeder, then attach the hose ... other end in container (I use an old plastic bottle with some old brake fluid in it ... stick the end of the bleeder hose into the fluid so no air.
Open 1/4 turn when bleeding.
If speed bleeders, then go pump; else use the procedure outlined above "down" "down" sync.
I do five -10 pumps, depending on how long since last bleed and whether getting ready for track or post-event. Then I close the bleeder, remove the hose, wipe the bleeder clean, re-install the rubber cap, and move on.
After each wheel, check MC, ensure fluid is up enough (as you get to third and fourth wheel, remember the target "full" level you want to be at and be just above that level when starting last wheel.
BTW ... there's the thing about doing a full flush of the system and the need for a TechII in one procedure (there are other methods). I went from DOT3 to DOT4 and had a corvette shop do a full flush on mine three years ago ... now I just flush and refill with DOT4.
As posted above ... fresh fluid and good pads are enough. Key on AutoX is to mentally imprint the course through course walk and have your attack plan memorized before you start. Bring some white shoe polish and mark the edges of your tires ... check for excessive rollover.