Motive Brake Bleeder
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Motive Brake Bleeder
I bought a Motive GM Power Bleeder-Model 0108 from Apex Performance about a month ago.
Had about 10psi in it, before it started to spew my Motul around the reservoir. Towels weren't enough to keep it from making a mess.
Called Apex, then Motul. It seems some early units had only one small washer (mine). Motul shipped out one thick washer and another small washer. Told me either the thick alone would work or use two small ones.
Question for other Motive owners, which washer combo works?
Had about 10psi in it, before it started to spew my Motul around the reservoir. Towels weren't enough to keep it from making a mess.
Called Apex, then Motul. It seems some early units had only one small washer (mine). Motul shipped out one thick washer and another small washer. Told me either the thick alone would work or use two small ones.
Question for other Motive owners, which washer combo works?
#3
Safety Car
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#4
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Uhmm This may be too late, but dont put brake fluid IN the tank.
Use a 50 cc syrange or turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the MC and put into an old bottle.
Put new brake fluid in the MC, pump to 12-15 psi then do the rear two calipers.
Release the pressure between the pressure cap and bottle, NOT the MC cap, put more fluid in the MC. Reattach the power bleeder cap and pump back up to 12-15 psi and do the front two calipers.
Release the pressure in the bottle again. and put more brake fluid if needed into the MC.
For a track car only put brake fluid to just above the 1/2 point in the tank ( brake fluid also expands when hot) for a street car fill to normal.
HTH
Tom
Use a 50 cc syrange or turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the MC and put into an old bottle.
Put new brake fluid in the MC, pump to 12-15 psi then do the rear two calipers.
Release the pressure between the pressure cap and bottle, NOT the MC cap, put more fluid in the MC. Reattach the power bleeder cap and pump back up to 12-15 psi and do the front two calipers.
Release the pressure in the bottle again. and put more brake fluid if needed into the MC.
For a track car only put brake fluid to just above the 1/2 point in the tank ( brake fluid also expands when hot) for a street car fill to normal.
HTH
Tom
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Uhmm This may be too late, but dont put brake fluid IN the tank.
Use a 50 cc syrange or turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the MC and put into an old bottle.
Put new brake fluid in the MC, pump to 12-15 psi then do the rear two calipers.
Release the pressure between the pressure cap and bottle, NOT the MC cap, put more fluid in the MC. Reattach the power bleeder cap and pump back up to 12-15 psi and do the front two calipers.
Release the pressure in the bottle again. and put more brake fluid if needed into the MC.
For a track car only put brake fluid to just above the 1/2 point in the tank ( brake fluid also expands when hot) for a street car fill to normal.
HTH
Tom
Use a 50 cc syrange or turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the MC and put into an old bottle.
Put new brake fluid in the MC, pump to 12-15 psi then do the rear two calipers.
Release the pressure between the pressure cap and bottle, NOT the MC cap, put more fluid in the MC. Reattach the power bleeder cap and pump back up to 12-15 psi and do the front two calipers.
Release the pressure in the bottle again. and put more brake fluid if needed into the MC.
For a track car only put brake fluid to just above the 1/2 point in the tank ( brake fluid also expands when hot) for a street car fill to normal.
HTH
Tom
I did drain the old fluid from the master cylinder, using the vacuum bleeder I have (which is how I finished the job).
Isn't the Motive designed to have the fluid in it? That's why they offer the industrial size model for the shops, right?
I did release pressure at the bottle, so got that right.
If I recall, our service manual calls for about 25psi for bleeding. I followed the bleed order in the manual.
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Yes the Directions and a conversation I had with the Prez of Motive say put the brake fluid in the bottle.
However, you experiences one reason why you do should not put brake fluid in the bottle.
An other reason is you dont need as much brake fluid if you drain the MC and put the new brake fluid in the MC.
Do you have a GM Cap for the MC or did you make one?
I made my own cap for the MC with a pressure release valve ( ice maker 3-way valve)
However, you experiences one reason why you do should not put brake fluid in the bottle.
An other reason is you dont need as much brake fluid if you drain the MC and put the new brake fluid in the MC.
Do you have a GM Cap for the MC or did you make one?
I made my own cap for the MC with a pressure release valve ( ice maker 3-way valve)
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Model 0108 is the GM cap.
Fits perfectly, just didn't have enough of a seal with the single thin washer in the box.
I'll try it again with the other washers. I'll take a pic later to see if I can show the thickness difference.
Fits perfectly, just didn't have enough of a seal with the single thin washer in the box.
I'll try it again with the other washers. I'll take a pic later to see if I can show the thickness difference.
#8
Melting Slicks
Hi AL;
I'v had mine for about 3 years. After sucking out the MC and refilling I put about a half qt. of fluid in the Motive tank and use 8 to 10 lbs. of pressure to bleed the total system, no problems. I'v also made up a cap like Au N Egl to do the clutch. If need be, I can dig mine out and check the thickness of the gasket.
Mike
I'v had mine for about 3 years. After sucking out the MC and refilling I put about a half qt. of fluid in the Motive tank and use 8 to 10 lbs. of pressure to bleed the total system, no problems. I'v also made up a cap like Au N Egl to do the clutch. If need be, I can dig mine out and check the thickness of the gasket.
Mike
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Uhmm This may be too late, but dont put brake fluid IN the tank.
Use a 50 cc syrange or turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the MC and put into an old bottle.
Put new brake fluid in the MC, pump to 12-15 psi then do the rear two calipers.
Release the pressure between the pressure cap and bottle, NOT the MC cap, put more fluid in the MC. Reattach the power bleeder cap and pump back up to 12-15 psi and do the front two calipers.
Release the pressure in the bottle again. and put more brake fluid if needed into the MC.
For a track car only put brake fluid to just above the 1/2 point in the tank ( brake fluid also expands when hot) for a street car fill to normal.
HTH
Tom
Use a 50 cc syrange or turkey baster to suck the old fluid out of the MC and put into an old bottle.
Put new brake fluid in the MC, pump to 12-15 psi then do the rear two calipers.
Release the pressure between the pressure cap and bottle, NOT the MC cap, put more fluid in the MC. Reattach the power bleeder cap and pump back up to 12-15 psi and do the front two calipers.
Release the pressure in the bottle again. and put more brake fluid if needed into the MC.
For a track car only put brake fluid to just above the 1/2 point in the tank ( brake fluid also expands when hot) for a street car fill to normal.
HTH
Tom
I used it with the fluid the first time and it worked perfectly. However once you put fluid in it the entire tank system needs to be cleaned thoroughly to avoid moisture accumulation. What a pita.
I will use it dry the next time.
#10
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies. In this picture, the washer on the right came in the box. The one in the middle is the same thickness and you can see the one on the left is thicker.
So, they told me to use the thick one or two thin ones, which is why I started the thread.
I'll test to see if it can hold pressure without fluid first. After that, I'll try another test with fluid. I've already bled the entire car (vacuum method), so at this point it's just to see if the Motive is worth keeping.
So, they told me to use the thick one or two thin ones, which is why I started the thread.
I'll test to see if it can hold pressure without fluid first. After that, I'll try another test with fluid. I've already bled the entire car (vacuum method), so at this point it's just to see if the Motive is worth keeping.
#12
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I am going out to the garage to check mine for a comparison. I would certainly question using two at a time. That IMO would cause bypass.
Ok, my washer is 1/8" thick. Make sure there is no dirt/dust etc. on either side of the washer.
Ok, my washer is 1/8" thick. Make sure there is no dirt/dust etc. on either side of the washer.
Last edited by outnumbered; 04-15-2007 at 09:33 PM.
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YEs and that is what the Prez of the company told me too. I mentioned to him it works better,, less mess and no waisted brake fluid if you dont put fluid in the tank, but in the MC.
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#15
Melting Slicks
Bleeding brakes
No fluid works great, no mess just don't forget to refill MC and check after each Caliper!!!!!!!!!!!!!JD
#16
Melting Slicks
Interesting. I bought mine a year ago. It did not come with a bag of washers. It had one washer, installed on the cap. I have never had leaking problems with it from day one. Must of got lucky...
I agree on the dry method. The 1st time I used it I was doing a full flush and that was ok. But it makes a mess when you let the pressure out. I went to the dry method of just using it to create pressure. No mess and no wasted fluid.
I agree on the dry method. The 1st time I used it I was doing a full flush and that was ok. But it makes a mess when you let the pressure out. I went to the dry method of just using it to create pressure. No mess and no wasted fluid.
#17
Safety Car
Also, if you pull the old fluid out of the MC with the syringe, how far down can you go? Do you have to make sure not to to below the min. fill line? or is allowing in air ok because you will bleed it anyway?
I like this idea of using the syringe, just want to make sure I get it right when the time comes for me to do this.
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I made my cap out of a Autozone GM cap, $2.50. a GM 99 blazer was $9.95 and a 03 Corvette cap was $22.95 at the chevy parts counter. ALL three were the same cap. Go figure
I take as much out as I can, then pour new right back in.
Also, if you pull the old fluid out of the MC with the syringe, how far down can you go? Do you have to make sure not to to below the min. fill line? or is allowing in air ok because you will bleed it anyway?
I like this idea of using the syringe, just want to make sure I get it right when the time comes for me to do this.
I like this idea of using the syringe, just want to make sure I get it right when the time comes for me to do this.
#19
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+1 for no fluid in the tank. I just top the MC to the brim and pump it up.
Mine doesn't seal very well against the Master Cylinder unless you hold your tongue just right.
Mine doesn't seal very well against the Master Cylinder unless you hold your tongue just right.
#20
If everyone is recommending no fluid in the bleeder, why did I buy it? Why weren't any of you recommending making a cap, and attaching a compressor line with an inline dryer regulated down to 20psi or so?
I am a little disappointed, to hear all this talk now. I let you talk me into this, thinking that there was a benefit, and the Motive guys confirmed there was a benefit, by using the bleeder as the fluid resevoir for bleeding.
You guys aren't going to tell me that you have all this 'stuff' on your vette and in your garage, but you don't have a compressor, are you?
What gives? Why didn't someone chime up and say to build a pressure cap? Am I missing something here? I think I might have a GM Motive bleeder for sale...
I am a little disappointed, to hear all this talk now. I let you talk me into this, thinking that there was a benefit, and the Motive guys confirmed there was a benefit, by using the bleeder as the fluid resevoir for bleeding.
You guys aren't going to tell me that you have all this 'stuff' on your vette and in your garage, but you don't have a compressor, are you?
What gives? Why didn't someone chime up and say to build a pressure cap? Am I missing something here? I think I might have a GM Motive bleeder for sale...