gkmccready

Okay, this is... "neat" or something...

Piston Dust Boots:
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0998-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0999-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_1000-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_1001-r.html

Slider Pin Boot: (!!)
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0988-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0989-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0990-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0991-r.html

Weirdest thing is that the left side was fine, the right side was, well, gone. Notice the zip-tie I had holding the header wrap on the tie-rod boot melted away on the right side, but the left side was just fine:
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0978-r.html

I'll be holding the header wrap on the tie-rod boots differently next time even though it seemed to work just fine everywhere but the RF -- I noticed the zip-tie had partially melted before my last session but just went out... sometime between the gas station at the end of the day and swapping back the stock stuff for daily driving duties this afternoon it must have fallen completely off. I'll also do a better job of aiming the brake duct hoses -- maybe those spindle ducts are worth it in the end.

Also, notice how badly my stock 18x8.5 245/40r18 was rubbing on the DRM duct on the left side:
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0973-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0985-r.html

Right side had a little rub, but nothing like the left:
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0994-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0993-r.html

And, finally, it looks like 6x20 minute sessions can eat about 1/2 the PFC 01 front pad away at Thunderhill:
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0981-r.html
http://www.petting-zoo.net/photos/Br...MG_0980-r.html

So, comments, suggestions? Why'd just the RF get so hot? I did forgot to turn everything off two sessions and ended up in Competitive Driving Mode instead...

glen

wallyman424

drilled rotors?

are these the right hand rotors that have the same vanes as the left hand ones?

gkmccready

No sir. It is a Z51 car, but I "downgraded" to the base caliper brackets and the cheap non-drilled, non-slotted NAPA rotors.

Racin Z06

Run in the normal counter-clockwise direction Thunderhill has 10 right-hand turns and 5 left-hand turns. Even though most of your breaking is already done as you enter these corners, in Comp-mode the car is still braking for you in the corners. The weight of the car is shifted/loaded to the right creating more heat and friction. The right side brakes are working harder than the left side.

Clear as mud???

Dave

gkmccready

So you figure the two sessions in Comp Mode did it to me? The car likes to drag the inside front brake? The left hand corners seem more sustained... T2, T6, T8, and T10 are where I would expect the brains to try to help. But I guess T14, T15, T3 and T5a are equally bad. I was trying to think of where I'd be on the brakes, not where the car might have tried to apply them for me without me being near the pedal. :-/

NewC6Toy

Not sure about the active handling thing being the problem with your brakes. My experience has been that the active handling likes to use the rear brakes. I say this because I used up a set of rear break pads forgetting to turn the AH off one weekend. Although I don't have a better suggestion as to why everything got so hot.

I can't tell exactly where your duct hose points, but it looks like you used the ABS sensor as the anchor point like the instructions said. Try zip tie-ing the duct to the upper A-arm and aiming the duct between the ABS bracket and the spindle. That has worked well for me so far (1 weekend).

ErnieN85

Glen, look at image #8 now the difference I see (between yours and mine) is that I have the duct fastened to the other side of the duct so that the air blows directly on the rotor surface, in the picture it looks like the duct is at least partialy blocked by the spindle (upright) now I can't compare the brake use between the two tracks but yours look like they got a whole lot hotter!

Bill Dearborn

AH uses front and rear brakes to correct yaw rate. AH will apply the brake on any of the 4 wheels depending on whether a car is understeering or oversteering. Oversteer is corrected by applying the outside front brake while understeer is corrected by applying the inside rear brake.

Bill

gkmccready

So the bottom of the ducting was tired to the ABS harness in your case?

ErnieN85

actually kind of and toward the back of the car. I'll try to get a picture of it for you. At putman park earlier this month I was just amazed at how hot my brakes did not get. I can't say exactly why although I do not seem to use them as much as I first did. Fore sure I'm not as fast as the best drivers but I am quite a bit faster than most in my group (not always) when I get the line & timing right it allows me to use the brakes less. but It did look like I might also have the air flowing differently from the duct over the rotor. take a look at the picture on the PFYC.com sight of the phoenix spindle duct holders

John Shiels

Header wrap should be longer and extend down the arm where the end threads in up to the nut. Then you can use tie wrap up there not around the end where the joint is. I use safety wire around the joint end it will take the heat.

gkmccready

Yeah, I saw you guys describe that after I'd gone and done it my way Thursday and I was just plain too lazy to go pull the wheels off again so I just took the wrap with me in case my way failed horribly. :-) Next time.

So, any thought on the slider pin rubber? I'd half expected the caliper piston dust boots to fry given what I'd read, although I really expected both or neither, but I'm a really surprised by the slider pin.

John Shiels

you have DRM and LGM air ducts?

gkmccready

DRM ducts, but no spindle ducts yet. As much as I want to blame AH I'm still trying to wrap my head around why only the RF got hot enough to do anything... still can't wrap my head around the slider pin.

John Shiels

better call LG

tahoeC6

Wow Glen, that's an eye opener. When you refer to downgrading to base units, I'm assuming you're referring to the stock C6 units? I've got a track day coming at Reno-Fernley in late July. I don't want to toast my Z51 brakes. Do you have any reccomendations for me on picking up a stock setup?? I understand the rotors are from Napa, and pads and ducts can be had from a forum vendor, but how about the calipers? Hope to see you at THill in the future.

gkmccready

Here's what I ran on Friday:

• PFC 01 Front pads (PF731-011544 $252 @ Pegasus Racing -- I bought locally but paid more)
• PFC Z Rear pads (I forget the part number, bought locally for around $69)
• Motul 600RBF (Pegasus Racing if you can't find it locally)
• DRM Brake Ducts ($199 @ DRM -- just call Randy@DRM)
• Base Caliper Brackets / Abutments (Part no: 12455800 and 12455799; $33/ea and you need _two_ of each -- Gene@FredBeans)
• NAPA Rotors (86700, 86701, 86702, 86703 @ ~$30ea) _or_ RockAuto (56700, 56701, 56702, 56703 @ ~$20ea) -- I found out after I'd ordered from NAPA that RockAuto also had them

I wish I'd also ordered a second set of slider pins from FredBeans so that I could just have two of the abutment setups ready to go without needing to move the pins from bracket to bracket... (I've already emailed Gene to see about ordering a set...)

I may order up a set of the LG Spindle Ducts to aim the DRM ducting a bit better, or I may give it one more shot with zip ties, too. It took me most of Thursday to get all that installed since it was the first time I'd touched the Corvette, really. Swapping back to the Z51 brakes took a lot less time.

Next event I'll also have my Hardbar harness bar, Hardbar lap belt bar, and TechTeam JetPilot harness in the car which'll really help because it was a pain to hold onto the steering wheel for support rather than to just steer with it.

VetteDrmr

Can't speak directly to AH on the C6, but the AH on C5s really seem to use the brakes, and they seem to be used on a diagonal (RF, LR, for example). I don't understand why, but that's been my experience.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Aaron Pfadt

Back to something in the original post, what options do you have besides Comp Mode? I have found on my early C6 Z51 that AH "off' mode is more intrusive than "Comp Driving" mode. I usually drive at the track in 'Comp' mode. It is pretty annoying, but I can't get the system to go completely away. Is there another setting that I don't now about.

My C5 Z06 car is actually off in 'off' mode, but that is definitely not the case with the C6.

Interested in other opinions.

-Aaron

gonzalezfj

I don't know about the C6 Z51, but in my C6 Z06 if you hold the TC button down for about 6 seconds all electronic nannies are turned off (shows in the DIC).

Frank Gonzalez