Need alignment info
06-25-2006, 06:05 AM
#1
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Need alignment info
I finally feel I can drive my 91 Vette track car to its limit. It now has about 1.5 degrees negative camber in the front and no visible negative camber in the rear. I was thinking of adding 2 degrees negative in the rear and 1/16 " toe in. I was hoping that this would help with oversteer. Should I add any more camber to the front. I use Goodyear Racing slicks. OR any other information want be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any responses.
06-25-2006, 07:45 AM
#2
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In most cases the front is 2x the rear for neg camber, and deffinitly more then the rear. ex: -2* front, max but equal caster, 1/16 toe out, rear -1* camber and 1/16 toe in.
06-25-2006, 09:11 AM
#3
Safety Car
The C4 is negative camber challenged. Most C4s are lucky to get -1.5 on both sides. Some cars are capable of more on one side than the other. I have seen some that were getting just over -1.75 on one side but only -1.25 on the other.
The limiting factor is the shims used on the upper control arms and the frame 'horns' the control arms are bolted to. You can equalize the difference between sides somewhat by getting a R-D Camber Brace. http://www.r-dracing.com/Camber-brace.htm
You can also increase the amount of negative camber by grinding the inner shim spacers (one large and one small) on both sides. Have a machine shop do this if you plan on doing it.
On a C4 the optimum camber is as much negative as you can get on the front (even) and then go for -.5 less on the rear. This can change depending on driver style/feel, wheel/tire combination and spring/swaybar setup, but it is a good starting point.
The 1/16 per side toe-out/toe-in AN U EGL mentioned is also a good starting point.
The limiting factor is the shims used on the upper control arms and the frame 'horns' the control arms are bolted to. You can equalize the difference between sides somewhat by getting a R-D Camber Brace. http://www.r-dracing.com/Camber-brace.htm
You can also increase the amount of negative camber by grinding the inner shim spacers (one large and one small) on both sides. Have a machine shop do this if you plan on doing it.
On a C4 the optimum camber is as much negative as you can get on the front (even) and then go for -.5 less on the rear. This can change depending on driver style/feel, wheel/tire combination and spring/swaybar setup, but it is a good starting point.
The 1/16 per side toe-out/toe-in AN U EGL mentioned is also a good starting point.
06-25-2006, 04:12 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by The Bus
I was hoping that this would help with oversteer.
In the following thread are some remarks aimed at helping
'reidry' deal with unwanted oversteer. Solofast was looking
at reidry's roll stiffness, I was looking at rear toe and ride
height. A complicating matter turned out to be a mismatch
between the rear swaybar and its bushings. It is all good.
I am unaware of reidry following up to say what he tried in
the end and how it worked out. Still, lots of info from a few
different perspectives that provide food for thought regarding
your situation.
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; 06-25-2006 at 04:17 PM.
