Brake Setup Recomendations
#1
Brake Setup Recomendations
I have an 03 and I am looking for the best brake set up for autocross. Pads, calipers, and rotors.
Also how do you gage the life left in the pads and rotors.
What do I need to change the break fliud and is this neccessary after the events. I have heard you should change fluids often I am just not sure how often and how do you know when its time.
Also how do you gage the life left in the pads and rotors.
What do I need to change the break fliud and is this neccessary after the events. I have heard you should change fluids often I am just not sure how often and how do you know when its time.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Hey rjung Welcome to the answer place. Where BS is not too bad
First check the class you plan to run under in auto-x.
Most ppl use the stock C5 caliper and rotor. We tend to get the stock rotors from NAPA or Rockauto.com
Use the rotors untill the heat cracks are almost at the edge.
Pad use depends on you. Some guys go down to 10% left some to 50% pad thinkness remaining. 50% pad thickness does notmean 50% pad life remaining, more like 20% remaining.
a Motive Powerbleeder is what many guys use to change brake fluid. Just attach it to the MC and put in 12-15 psi in the Power bleeder then bleed each caliper. These pressure opens up the abs module in the caliper.
Good Luck and dont be a stranger here
Tom
First check the class you plan to run under in auto-x.
Most ppl use the stock C5 caliper and rotor. We tend to get the stock rotors from NAPA or Rockauto.com
Use the rotors untill the heat cracks are almost at the edge.
Pad use depends on you. Some guys go down to 10% left some to 50% pad thinkness remaining. 50% pad thickness does notmean 50% pad life remaining, more like 20% remaining.
a Motive Powerbleeder is what many guys use to change brake fluid. Just attach it to the MC and put in 12-15 psi in the Power bleeder then bleed each caliper. These pressure opens up the abs module in the caliper.
Good Luck and dont be a stranger here
Tom
#3
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Hey rjung Welcome to the answer place. Where BS is not too bad
First check the class you plan to run under in auto-x.
Most ppl use the stock C5 caliper and rotor. We tend to get the stock rotors from NAPA or Rockauto.com
Use the rotors untill the heat cracks are almost at the edge.
Pad use depends on you. Some guys go down to 10% left some to 50% pad thinkness remaining. 50% pad thickness does notmean 50% pad life remaining, more like 20% remaining.
a Motive Powerbleeder is what many guys use to change brake fluid. Just attach it to the MC and put in 12-15 psi in the Power bleeder then bleed each caliper. These pressure opens up the abs module in the caliper.
Good Luck and dont be a stranger here
Tom
First check the class you plan to run under in auto-x.
Most ppl use the stock C5 caliper and rotor. We tend to get the stock rotors from NAPA or Rockauto.com
Use the rotors untill the heat cracks are almost at the edge.
Pad use depends on you. Some guys go down to 10% left some to 50% pad thinkness remaining. 50% pad thickness does notmean 50% pad life remaining, more like 20% remaining.
a Motive Powerbleeder is what many guys use to change brake fluid. Just attach it to the MC and put in 12-15 psi in the Power bleeder then bleed each caliper. These pressure opens up the abs module in the caliper.
Good Luck and dont be a stranger here
Tom
I am doing the same as Tom, Napa Rotors, stock calipers, change brake fluid to Super Blue. I just do a heavy bleed once a year to cycle out most of the old fluid. As for pads I run Carbotech XP9 or xp10 on the track, but they probably would not be good for autocross. Best thing for autocross is probably stock Z06 pads or maybe some Panthers.
#4
Thanks for the information. I have only been racing this year and what an experience. It is almost consuming. I have to run group 2 because I upgraded the air intake and exhaust before I raced the first time. You can imagine my shock to find out how this littel change made such a big difference in my grouping. My times put me in the lower half somewhere but this is still fantastic. I am hoping in the next couple of years to become more competative once I learn how to drive. For now I am trying to be safe and protect my car.
#5
Le Mans Master
you're brakes don't have enough time to heat up in AutoX to the point where you have to worry about bleeding your brakes every event. Once or twice a year to keep fresh fluid in the system and a good firm pedal. Track days, bleed them every time.
Pads - I like the Wilwood E-Compound. You don't need/want a full track pad, again not enough time to get heat in them. Just a nice aggressive streat pad(Panther+, Hawk HP+, ect...). Keep you eye on them so you can judge how much you use up each event and when you can't make it through the next event with a little room for error, replace.
Calipers - Stay stock. I've got the SL-6 calipers from LG and they're great, but I got them from track days, not AutoX. They don't help much if at all there and probably will bump you up in class.
Rotors - NAPA all the way. $25 a pop, run them until they crack to the edges (or get close) and throw 'em away
Pads - I like the Wilwood E-Compound. You don't need/want a full track pad, again not enough time to get heat in them. Just a nice aggressive streat pad(Panther+, Hawk HP+, ect...). Keep you eye on them so you can judge how much you use up each event and when you can't make it through the next event with a little room for error, replace.
Calipers - Stay stock. I've got the SL-6 calipers from LG and they're great, but I got them from track days, not AutoX. They don't help much if at all there and probably will bump you up in class.
Rotors - NAPA all the way. $25 a pop, run them until they crack to the edges (or get close) and throw 'em away
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: Charleston South Carolina
Posts: 3,070
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I just switched out my pads this morning. Hawk HP plus.
The PFC Z-rated ones I took out after two years of autox still looked brand new. No rotor wear either.
I liked the PFC Z's but wanted to try something different this year after losing my first event of the year by 0.09 seconds. New A6s go on this week too.
Good luck.
The PFC Z-rated ones I took out after two years of autox still looked brand new. No rotor wear either.
I liked the PFC Z's but wanted to try something different this year after losing my first event of the year by 0.09 seconds. New A6s go on this week too.
Good luck.
#7
Originally Posted by TedDBere
I just switched out my pads this morning. Hawk HP plus.
The PFC Z-rated ones I took out after two years of autox still looked brand new. No rotor wear either.
I liked the PFC Z's but wanted to try something different this year after losing my first event of the year by 0.09 seconds. New A6s go on this week too.
Good luck.
The PFC Z-rated ones I took out after two years of autox still looked brand new. No rotor wear either.
I liked the PFC Z's but wanted to try something different this year after losing my first event of the year by 0.09 seconds. New A6s go on this week too.
Good luck.