loiq

Posted in C4 Tech too, but no one there knows:

http://www.drgas.com/store/product.p...&cat=22&page=1

STEVEN13

Hi,

While I don't have this kit-I do use a bar with polly bushings and it came with a similar mount. On mine I can adjust the camber by making the bar shorter or longer. On this set-up (using the stock bar) it looks like it has only 2 adjustments.

To answer your question it would work but (maybe) with limted adjustments

Steven

shotchkiss

Something like this would seem to be much better, with a far greater and precise amount of adjustability for only a few $$ more http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=496

STEVEN13

Thats what I have.

Steven

astock165

And how do you like them? I was just talking to someone about making that kind of change on my C4 with a Coleman strut with heim joints on each end. This looks like a ready to go kit.

I'm assuming you set camber by using either threaded end and then locking it with the jam nut?

ZR1 MK

Im not familiar with the drgas product, but if your car gets used often at the track, I recommend the jointed rods. Urethane still has deflection, but the joints dont.
Adjusting is done by loosening lock/jam nuts, adjusting camber by twisting rod in either direction, then tighten lock/jam nuts. So much easier.

STEVEN13

The heim joint bars are better. For me the polly bushing bar works fine-I had it on my car since 2001. I only do between 2-4 track events a year. I only have it as it makes alignments easy. And yes you are right on how to adjust camber. (When I adjust I loosen both jam nuts).

Frank R. (Forum member) uses the stock bar and is very fast.

Steven

Vetracr

The spacers are square and fit in the lower camber arm bracket bolt slots. The hole in the spacers are offset so that rotating the spacer 90 degrees positions the holes to provide different amounts of camber. There is no camber bolts to deal with. I tried a set once. Your better off with a VPB adjustable camber arm set.

Larry

Solofast

Those are a much better deal, the others won't slip, but you don't have much adjustment either. If you are doing anything with the rear links, these are a much much better solution.

fmrfast

Thanks for the compliment Steven.

Yes, I run the stock bar, down side as the eccentric moves you can gain more negative camber then you want, so you do have to be aware of the negative camber gain.

Frank

STEVEN13

Hi,

I stated here on this thread that I have had no problems with my bar. Also remember that I track my car 2-4x a year. For the street this bar would be fine.


I have been hearing a slight clunk-which I thought was my front sway-bar. I shimmed all the space-where the bar mounts to the bracket that connects to the lower a-arm. I used a polly bushing that I had leftover (not used from my kit and made a shim) and the noise was still there.

When I was jacking the car up-I heard the noise from the rear. After some help from a neighbor(moving the tire 12:00&6:00) and me under the car I found the noise. Strut bar (strut rod)-left side!

I have not yet removed but probably the bushing is bad.

Just wanted to pass this info on.

Steven

ZR1 MK

Im lost on your description. You mention A arm (front) and strut (rear). Do you mean trailing bars or camber bar had problems?
For reference, I used the urethane rods for a few years. After enough track use, the bushings at the rear end side got elongated with enough clearances for me to switch to the jointed ends. They dont make noise like some other jointed ends too, so that why I recommend them.

STEVEN13

ZR1 MK,

What I am saying is that I thought I had a problem with the front sway bar but after I shimmed it my problem was still there-meaning that was not my problem. When I jacked the car up (the front) to check it again I heard the slight clunk in the rear. Then I found the source of my problem.

The bar I am calling the strut bar the shop manual calls the spindle rod.
I changed the stock bar with a aftermarket bar with urethane bushings. This aftermarket bar is what my problem is. I have not removed it yet but it looks like the urethane bushings are worn.

I will probably go with the jointed ends also.

Sorry if I was not clear. I should of not of mentioned my front end at all.

Steven