harness bar fab and 6pt install
05-12-2006, 07:13 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
harness bar fab and 6pt install
For those interested this is my quick one day solution for: Its Thursday and I want to go to the track on Saturday. What do I have around my garage?
I cut two steel plates and drilled them for the stock anchor points and then again to house the stock shoulder harness bolt. Then attached to the car B piller, then cut 1.75" 0120 wall DOM and welded to the plates. The B piller angles prevent the tubing from rotating. If you keep the plates small there is little to no lever arm on the bar. Sure, a truss is better and so is a 4 point rear cage and so is a proper 10 point cage.
Then I took 1.5" angle iron and drilled two holes so it would fit over the stock seat bolts on the floor. Drilled 4 more holes for the lap belts and the V- 6pt sub parachute style. Set up harness for clip ins (not the most comfortable but that's what I had in my garage.
I got no chest so the stock seats encourage the shoulderbelts to dump off. So I made a quick loop with some 2" webbing so that two 3" holes are in the loop making 2 smaller loops connected. This prevented the belts from dumping due to the "H" pattern and the belts don't slip off my HANS either.
There are the 6 points. You sit on the black "V" sub belt and pull it up between the legs and clip it into the other 4 points. This is a compromise but it works for the uncommitted. My stock belts still work.
I use this only occasionally this way. I race with another car with real safety gear full containment seat, 6pt hybrid dual shoulder HANS belts fire system etc... The above is just the way I did it for a fast weekend. There is no substitute for proper racing seat/anchors etc....
Use this method at your own risk.
I cut two steel plates and drilled them for the stock anchor points and then again to house the stock shoulder harness bolt. Then attached to the car B piller, then cut 1.75" 0120 wall DOM and welded to the plates. The B piller angles prevent the tubing from rotating. If you keep the plates small there is little to no lever arm on the bar. Sure, a truss is better and so is a 4 point rear cage and so is a proper 10 point cage.
Then I took 1.5" angle iron and drilled two holes so it would fit over the stock seat bolts on the floor. Drilled 4 more holes for the lap belts and the V- 6pt sub parachute style. Set up harness for clip ins (not the most comfortable but that's what I had in my garage.
I got no chest so the stock seats encourage the shoulderbelts to dump off. So I made a quick loop with some 2" webbing so that two 3" holes are in the loop making 2 smaller loops connected. This prevented the belts from dumping due to the "H" pattern and the belts don't slip off my HANS either.
There are the 6 points. You sit on the black "V" sub belt and pull it up between the legs and clip it into the other 4 points. This is a compromise but it works for the uncommitted. My stock belts still work.
I use this only occasionally this way. I race with another car with real safety gear full containment seat, 6pt hybrid dual shoulder HANS belts fire system etc... The above is just the way I did it for a fast weekend. There is no substitute for proper racing seat/anchors etc....
Use this method at your own risk.
