M14

Does anyone have any data regarding the effectiveness of the the DRM (or other) brake cooling ducts? Many folks consider it as a given, that they produce significantly cooler temps, but it would be interesting to know what the measurements have been, surely someone has tested it. I would really like to know how the cooling ducts and OE solid rotors, compare to good two-piece rotors, like Stoptech. In their testing results, the larger, two-piece rotors were impressive in the difference they made. Of course, they are very expensive, and require a different front wheel. I would appreciate any information folks may have seen on this.

M14

Maybe this one of those things that everyone assumes is necessary and good, but no one really has a clue how much difference it really makes. ???

0Randy@DRM

We tested this setup a long time ago. I forgot all the numbers, but it was very good. Back in 97 Doug and crew went to Blackhawk farms with a car that only had 200 miles on it. We had the track rented for 2 days. Well after about the first 10-20 laps we packed up the car and went back to the shop. 310 oil temp, 300 in the diff, 295 tranny, 230 water and no brake pedal because the seals melted out of them.
Well since we came out with the brake duct, people can take their C5's out and pound on them all day with these brake problems. Good fluid, race pads, are still very important.

Randy

Dirty Howie

Do you think your ducts reduce cracking of the rotors.....


DH

0Randy@DRM

I know that they help with cracked rotors!!!

Randy

John Shiels

Foot the bill and I'll block off one side of the ducts on my car. When everything melts we will know They work and every race car ha them. Even with them my rotors get red hot in daylight photo's imagine no ducts They are definitely needed if you run hard no matter what brake system you have. It would be easy to measure temps with one side closed but I don't want to ruin my caliper seals, calipers, hubs, rotors, and tie rod ends.

Dirty Howie

You mean they help when your rotors are cracked.....or they help prevent them from cracking


DH

0Randy@DRM

They help prevent cracking, because they don't let them get to a crazy hot temp.

Randy

larryfs

Most of the heat is created by the super agressive compounds. So unless you really need the serious race pads, think about the excess wear and tear.

varkwso

- I run ZO6 pads and XP8s lately - lots of pad and rotor life. No issues in the brake zones either.....

rikhek

R compound tires and stock pads with no ducts and I went through a brand new set of OEM pads in less than 100 track miles. They melted with scary fade. Of course this was attributable to R compound and OEM pads

R compound tires with stock pads and ducts and about 175 miles out of pads before trash. Once again, I was too cheap to pay for race pads. Horrible, scary fade.

R compound tires with ducts and race pads and 300 miles of track use before trash. NO FADE. Not scared. Also went with Super Blue fluid. Problems solved.

With ducts I'm getting about 400 miles out of $25 NAPA rotors.

My brake issues are resolved.

However, you must keep in mind the braking with the track pads was VERY MUCH improved over the OEM pads. Night and day.

I learned very quickly how important the ducts are. I'm running DRM plastic and Phoenix spindle ducts.

Now installing them is another subject. What a nightmare. Read the following link. However, even with the install issues they are a must with R compound and race pads.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1377535

Rick

John Shiels

Burn your finger and if no water is available the first thing you will do is blow on it. That's the proof

fhturner

I bought mine a couple of months ago, but didn't realize the amount of hacking that needed to be done. I haven't yet gotten up the courage to start mangling my 15,000-mile '02 Z yet. A template really, really ought to be included with this, especially since we're talking about nearly $200 for some plastic and a hose. To me, the "polish" and professionalism of the product just falls down if you don't have good instructions with it, regardless of the workmanship.

Hey, Randy (@ DRM)-- how about y'all make up a template for cutting up the wheel well? At least take some guess work out of the install for those of us first-timers...

Fred

mlongo99

I don't blame you. When I installed them my neighbor saw me walking toward the C6 with a hacksaw and said "That's not a good sign"

Chalky

varkwso

I have a set to install - I was thinking of making a template just to reduce the install time and the hacking required. One with the kit would be much nicer....

bobmoore2

I know from personal experience that my DRM ducts reduce cracking of my rotors. The hose came loose from the duct on one side, and I did a track day like that. On the side with the loose hose the rotor cracked and turned a brownish color (it obviously got very hot). The side with the good duct had only small superficial cracks and no discoloring. Once I saw the difference in the two rotors, then it was obvious that I needed to remove the wheel and find out what was wrong with that brake duct.

Before I got the ducts my track days were often cut short due to a very soft brake pedal. Since I installed the ducts, that hasn't happened once.

If your car is used on the track, even if you're using the stock rotors, pads, and tires, then you should consider brake ducts a safety item, and even more important than good seatbelts.

BrianCunningham

I'm more worried about the seal wheel bearings that we can't change the grease on.

fhturner

Come on, Randy-- whattdya say???

0Randy@DRM

We have tried building templates. It just doesn't work, because of a few issues. We had two cars in here getting duct installed. The first one we did normally and then made templates off of it. Then we cut the other car with those templates. If wasn't close at all, because we took off a small amount more of the OEM duct. That 1/4 inch changed everything. The other side was ok but wasn't as good as doing it the trial and error methond.

Thanks
Randy