GreekPT

I bought the DRM ducts and Phoenix spindle ducts from (a preferred vendor???) Phoenix Performance. I had a question about the spindle duct placement, so I called Joe who said he'd check with his mechanics and call me right back. NO CALL BACK, Thanks Joe!

On top of that, no directions for installing the DRM pieces were included...so it was trial and error, live and learn. Thanks to the people who suffered thru this job before me and posted the How To Writeups on the Forum.

3 nights worth of work later, I'm buttoning everything up and find that the flexible tube that connects the DRM duct to the absurdly overpriced (!!!) spindle ducts is rubbing on the inside of the wheel with anything more than about 60% of steering input/wheel turning on both sides. Sorry, it was too late and I didn't actually measure the amount I turned the steering wheel. The tube lengths are just under 12" so there's no extra tubing flopping around.

I suppose I can pull the whole mess apart, redrill another hole in the frame a bit lower to relocate the duct lower - would that help?? ....Any Other Suggestions?

Oh, why the ***** is the flex tubing basically the same ID as the duct's OD?!?!?!? The lack of common sense & engineering skills that go into these kits is comical. We get raped on the purchase prices then get screwed with the major PITA install.

I'm no newbie to wrenching and I take pride and often joy in doing as many mods/repairs as I can but at this point I'm just fed up with parts prices and (lack of) vendor support. Yes, I'm waiting on my WPD brake kit too!


Phil

Maineiac

Oh...man...you read my mind, to some degree. I recently installed some spindle ducts (Not Phoenix) and I have been extremely frustrated with the end result.

I agree.....why isn't the OD of the DRM ducts (3.5") the same as the OD on the spindle duct (3")??? Or vice versa....whatever....it sure would make sense and make for a cleaner install!

I'm having issues with a spindle duct rubbing on the passenger side.....wearing a nice groove in my $300 Stoptech rotor.

I bent it back, but the thing is so flimsy, it goes right back. I may take them off, and huck them right into the trash.

I've run the DRM ducts for years, and haven't had any issues with them.

If someone wants to make some money, design a rugged spindle duct that accepts a 3.5" hose.

elh0102

Yes Phil, the pieces don't fit quite perfectly; different parts from different folks, that were not designed to be used together, although they can be (and are) with good success. The hose fitting to the spindle duct is a bit of a pain, but with practice it's easier. I haven't put any cooling on my current ZO6, but I guess I will. When I had this setup on a previous car, I did not use the spindle duct except at the track. It causes so much hose movement in general driving, the wear is for no real benefit. Just cable-tie the hose to the upper control arm (and it still probably gives you 90% of the benefit, if the length puts it close to the rotor). As for the rubbing, if you are using OE size front wheels and tires, it is possible to locate the DRM duct so there is no rubbing. If you had the car's suspension down, I expect you anchored the DRM piece a little too low. Good luck, with a lot of patience and good duct tape, it will end up okay.

0Randy@DRM

Sorry to hear about your troubles. This was the sencond set of ducts that went without directions last week. I had a very nice long talk with the shipping deptment. If you have a e-mail adress I would be more than happy to send you over the install sheets. We have never installed the spindle ducts here was I can't be much help. Please give me a call if I can help in anyother ways.

Randy
763-477-9272

RedHotBolt

I had the same problem with my ducts but Randy sent me the instructions and it was not bad at all. The spindle ducts are another issue. I refuse to pay what LG and others want for them. I own a sheet metal shop (www.picofab.com) and if we ever get time I will design a set of ducts that work at least as well as the others and can be sold for half what the one's on the market today are sold for. I told the guys at LG that I would build them their spindle ducts and give them a good price where they could sell them for less but the guy I talked to when they were installing my headers was not interested. I have my DRM ducts (the flex hose part) zip tied to where it blows on the center of the back of the rotor and it works perfect. I doubt there is a very large market for spindle ducts but maybe.

Jerry

Dirty Howie

....this is a future mod for me


DH

GAS

Yep, you guys are right on....I just put the LG ducts on and had to ream out the holes to make it fit the corvette wheel pattern. Somewhere I read that LG and DRM had an AGREEMENT one would make the spindle duct and one would make the air duct so as not to compete. The end result is they do not match up well!! Also, the DRM duct seems to be the same size as the stock Z06 duct so you end up having to slice the stock duct to make it go inside the DRM unit! Seems like they could have made the inside diameter of the DRM unit bigger than the outside of the stock one Anyhow, it is all together now and we'll see.

John Shiels

3.5" hose would be harder to run without rubbing and the DRM duct sends as much air as possible to the wheel so I guess they made it as big as possible. They were not designed as a unit but I have had no problem with them. I used a 3.5" hose over the DRM unit and a 13" piece of 3" hose which slips inside. It has worked fine for 3,000 + track miles on the same hoses. I may work on the car this weekend and will take some pictures if anyone needs them in the future.

What is rubbing on the rotor exactly?

Rollin Black

Hello John.

If you get a chance, some pics of your set-up would be great.

Thanks, Perry

Maineiac

The spindle duct itself keeps getting pushed into the rotor.....mainly caused by manuevering the car in the pits, and turning the wheels full lock.

I like your idea of running 2 size hoses, and running one inside the other. I'll order some 3" hose, and try that......

Gatorac

Was this with the car on the ground at ride height?

John Shiels

What pushes the spindle duct? Mine never bends or gets pushed. The two hose either slide or really accordion when the wheel turns. Trying to imagine what would bend it

John Shiels

Pop riveted this aluminum circles to the LG spindles to protect from heat. Two layers has worked good plus wrapped the tie rod ends also.




Inside view

rikhek

This is a subject which is near to my heart. What a pain in the ***. Read these links:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1307730

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1308017

I will say I had no problems installing the Phoenix spindle ducts, however, very expensive for what you get. Expensive from DRM and Phoenix but they do work.....

I think it's poor engineering having to cut the support/structure wire back several inches to get the hoses over the spindle ducts. For the price charged it's silly.

Also, the DRM ducts lack of a template make for a hack job. I find it comical for the money charged.

My DRM ducts are now in as are the Phoenix ducts with no rubbing. Just hacked up fender liners which will need to be replaced to return to stock.

Rick

Maineiac

I believe it's because I'm running 3.5" hose from the DRM duct to the spindle duct. It's the high temp SCEET tubing like yours. Because the spindle duct is 3", the hose just doesn't clamp neatly to the duct. That hose is pretty stiff compared to the hose supplied by DRM.

Your setup looks good, because the hoses move freely....they don't bind up.

jlucas

Hey John, what the story behind the venting & mesh on your wheel liners? Do tell.

comp

John Shiels

Figured someone would notice. Wheel well is a high pressure area. High pressure = lift which means less down force, That why race cars have the vents on top of the wheel wells like AMLS. Mine is on top of the inner fender through the hood and back out through the side gill on the body. I just made a screen to close down the front air intake on the nose above the splitter. Now I can start taping the opening ala NASCAR to reduce lift and drag. More air in = more drag. Car runs very cool so my temps can stand to go up a bit. More down force less, drag, new slicks hopefully will give me the confidence and ability to get below 1:30 on long course at Pocono. I need about 3/10 which even a good attitude should get me and some _alls. My new glasses over my eyes will be my biggest improvement this year and that is not a joke. My prescription changed after not changing for 28 years.

joemoia

We had my car raised on jack stands to do the installation. After completion we drove the car up on ramps and turned the front wheels to check on clearances with the front suspension loaded. IIRC we had to re-position/re-drill on one side.

vms4evr

Not sure if this helps or not, but...

Take a look at this picture. DRM_Duct

See on the right where I made the red line to show the A-arm backing plate that is welded to the frame. So on the left. I put the top of the duct flush against where that peice is so that the duct would lie flat against the frame. Then to adjust forward or back. I lifted the lower A-arm with a jack to make sure the upper A-arm would not crush the opening in the duct when the suspension went to full compression. I left just about 1/4-1/2 inch of space between the compressed upper A-arm and the duct opening. Then installed the flex hose. So far no problems to speak of. My stock wheels/tires do not hit the plastic ducts at all.

I did not use the spindle ducts and did not use all of the flex hose. I used just enough so that when the wheel is at full lock inboard the hose does not get crushed. It's not the optimum but it is a heck of a lot better than the stock tube just blowing air around the wheel well.