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C-5 Alignment autoX help

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Old 04-24-2006, 06:58 PM
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97coupechuck
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Default C-5 Alignment autoX help

My new C6 is here and now I'm going to dedicate C5 to race only status, need alignment advice. I"ve seen VBP specs, any opinions? Racing at Hallet Motorspeedway in Tulsa this weekend.
Old 04-24-2006, 08:01 PM
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Solofast
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Before you align it lower it, and note that even the serious T1 guys aren't lowering it to the limits of the stock bolts....

then put in 2 degrees of negative camber in the front and 1.5 to 1.7 in the back. Caster of 6-7 degrees in the front...

1/8th to a quarter of an inch total toe out in the front (season to taste, you mileage may vary) to help the car turn in, 1/8 of an inch of toe in in the back, which will keep you pointed in the right direction....

This will get you in the ball park, you may want to upgrade to Z06 springs, bars and shocks, (or a more agressive shock) as you get used to the car, but for now just have fun....
Old 04-24-2006, 09:54 PM
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97coupechuck
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Thanks, looks more radical than VBP specs. The car does have T-1 springs and bars, Bilstein sports. Your right it's actually to low right now after I put on the T-1 springs. Going to raise it first thing in morning before I send it over to alignment shop.
Old 04-25-2006, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 97coupechuck
Thanks, looks more radical than VBP specs. The car does have T-1 springs and bars, Bilstein sports. Your right it's actually to low right now after I put on the T-1 springs. Going to raise it first thing in morning before I send it over to alignment shop.
You might want to wait and change ride height when you're doing the alignment...particularly if your alignment shop can corner weight and set rake correctly. Only thing I'd add to the specs given is that 1/4 inch front toe out is a ton...the car may feel too twitchy to you. I'd personally reverse the settings, go with no more than 1/8" front toe out and 1/4" rear toe in. But, much of it is personal preference (I actually run effective zero toe in front) and you won't know what really works best for you until you play around with it.
Old 04-25-2006, 09:11 AM
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Yes, a quarter of an inch of front toe out is a ton, and an eight probably close to the minimum...

What I was trying to do is define a range that you should be in, so you can season to taste...

Second the corner weighting, if you are tracking the car it is a requirement...
Old 04-25-2006, 11:37 AM
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97coupechuck
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Thanks much for info guys. Please tell me about corner weighting. My thoughts are that you adjust by using the adjustable sway bar end links to get the Lbs. to move around?
Old 04-25-2006, 01:01 PM
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acrace
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Adjust the ride height via the lowering bolts to move weight around. Use the sway bar end links to adjust the preload in the bar (or, better yet, eliminate any preload or twist).
Old 04-25-2006, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by acrace
Adjust the ride height via the lowering bolts to move weight around. Use the sway bar end links to adjust the preload in the bar (or, better yet, eliminate any preload or twist).
Yep, what he said ^

Corner weight with the bar end links disconnected, using the lowering bolts. If you don't have them, I'd buy the T1 end links to give pre load adjustment on the bars. As far as rake, I think most are in the 1/4-3/8" range. For autocross, I have basically no rake.
Old 04-25-2006, 01:39 PM
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tigerdrvr:
Thanks for the details that you added.

97coupechuck:
Make sure that the car is as close as possible to "race configuration" when corner balancing - the fuel load that you want, weight in the driver seat to simulate your body weight, seat adjusted appropriately. All on a level surface, of course!

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