C-5 Alignment autoX help
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
C-5 Alignment autoX help
My new C6 is here and now I'm going to dedicate C5 to race only status, need alignment advice. I"ve seen VBP specs, any opinions? Racing at Hallet Motorspeedway in Tulsa this weekend.
#2
Melting Slicks
Before you align it lower it, and note that even the serious T1 guys aren't lowering it to the limits of the stock bolts....
then put in 2 degrees of negative camber in the front and 1.5 to 1.7 in the back. Caster of 6-7 degrees in the front...
1/8th to a quarter of an inch total toe out in the front (season to taste, you mileage may vary) to help the car turn in, 1/8 of an inch of toe in in the back, which will keep you pointed in the right direction....
This will get you in the ball park, you may want to upgrade to Z06 springs, bars and shocks, (or a more agressive shock) as you get used to the car, but for now just have fun....
then put in 2 degrees of negative camber in the front and 1.5 to 1.7 in the back. Caster of 6-7 degrees in the front...
1/8th to a quarter of an inch total toe out in the front (season to taste, you mileage may vary) to help the car turn in, 1/8 of an inch of toe in in the back, which will keep you pointed in the right direction....
This will get you in the ball park, you may want to upgrade to Z06 springs, bars and shocks, (or a more agressive shock) as you get used to the car, but for now just have fun....
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks, looks more radical than VBP specs. The car does have T-1 springs and bars, Bilstein sports. Your right it's actually to low right now after I put on the T-1 springs. Going to raise it first thing in morning before I send it over to alignment shop.
#4
Originally Posted by 97coupechuck
Thanks, looks more radical than VBP specs. The car does have T-1 springs and bars, Bilstein sports. Your right it's actually to low right now after I put on the T-1 springs. Going to raise it first thing in morning before I send it over to alignment shop.
#5
Melting Slicks
Yes, a quarter of an inch of front toe out is a ton, and an eight probably close to the minimum...
What I was trying to do is define a range that you should be in, so you can season to taste...
Second the corner weighting, if you are tracking the car it is a requirement...
What I was trying to do is define a range that you should be in, so you can season to taste...
Second the corner weighting, if you are tracking the car it is a requirement...
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks much for info guys. Please tell me about corner weighting. My thoughts are that you adjust by using the adjustable sway bar end links to get the Lbs. to move around?
#7
Drifting
Adjust the ride height via the lowering bolts to move weight around. Use the sway bar end links to adjust the preload in the bar (or, better yet, eliminate any preload or twist).
#8
Originally Posted by acrace
Adjust the ride height via the lowering bolts to move weight around. Use the sway bar end links to adjust the preload in the bar (or, better yet, eliminate any preload or twist).
Corner weight with the bar end links disconnected, using the lowering bolts. If you don't have them, I'd buy the T1 end links to give pre load adjustment on the bars. As far as rake, I think most are in the 1/4-3/8" range. For autocross, I have basically no rake.
#9
Drifting
tigerdrvr:
Thanks for the details that you added.
97coupechuck:
Make sure that the car is as close as possible to "race configuration" when corner balancing - the fuel load that you want, weight in the driver seat to simulate your body weight, seat adjusted appropriately. All on a level surface, of course!
Thanks for the details that you added.
97coupechuck:
Make sure that the car is as close as possible to "race configuration" when corner balancing - the fuel load that you want, weight in the driver seat to simulate your body weight, seat adjusted appropriately. All on a level surface, of course!