Brakes for track days?
#2
Instructor
Keep the stock calipers and rotors (maybe AC Delco performance rotors) Go with HAWK HP plus pads, upgrade the bias spring and SS brake lines. No need for 2500 brake packages unless you are a hardcore track guy. I run about 4-6 track events a year (Road Atlanta, Rockingham, Southern Speedway....) and this has been fine. Always bring a set of rotors ($100 at NAPA) just in case.
just my .02
just my .02
#3
Le Mans Master
Pay a visit over to the AutoX/RR section. Lots of great info over there
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
I put this together a few months ago, largely from information posted in the AutoX section. There is a large section about brakes
short version, assuming you've never done a track day, I'd recomend
NAPA rotors
Wilwood E-compound brake pads (assuming street tires - good for light track use and still can drive on them every day) or H-compound pads if you want to change them out
fresh brake fluid
Castrol SRF - the most expensive and the best $80 per 32 oz bottle but it will last you all year
-Motul 600- widely available $16 per 16 oz
-Wilwood EXP 600 - $20 per 500mL
-Wilwood Hi Temp 570 - $8 per 12 oz DOT 3 but good for cheap fluid
-ATE SuperBlue/Type 200 (Same fluid different color) $10-$15/ltr
-Ford HD - this Super Duty fluid is good if you in a pinch or can't find brand name stuff around. $12 per 16 oz
I'd skip the bias spring and SS lines for now.
Next step would be the DRM brake ducts and either LG or Pheonix spindle ducts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
I put this together a few months ago, largely from information posted in the AutoX section. There is a large section about brakes
short version, assuming you've never done a track day, I'd recomend
NAPA rotors
Wilwood E-compound brake pads (assuming street tires - good for light track use and still can drive on them every day) or H-compound pads if you want to change them out
fresh brake fluid
Castrol SRF - the most expensive and the best $80 per 32 oz bottle but it will last you all year
-Motul 600- widely available $16 per 16 oz
-Wilwood EXP 600 - $20 per 500mL
-Wilwood Hi Temp 570 - $8 per 12 oz DOT 3 but good for cheap fluid
-ATE SuperBlue/Type 200 (Same fluid different color) $10-$15/ltr
-Ford HD - this Super Duty fluid is good if you in a pinch or can't find brand name stuff around. $12 per 16 oz
I'd skip the bias spring and SS lines for now.
Next step would be the DRM brake ducts and either LG or Pheonix spindle ducts.
Last edited by Lancer033; 04-15-2006 at 10:33 AM.
#5
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St. Jude Vendor Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by ezeddz
Any suggestions for brake packages, planning on 4-5 track days per year in South Florida. Sebring. Moroso, Homestead.
sebring April 28th
Here is where you can see a video from Sebring 06 www.lgmracing.com
and
Here are the brakes,
LG
#8
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Lancer033
hard to diagree, I just think it might be overkill for 4-5 track days a year
#10
Drifting
As someone that also only does a few events / year. I highly recommend PFC pads, ATE fluid, DR bias spring (don't know if it did much, but its practically free).
Get some spare original type rotors.
I also added my own cooling ducts and wrapped the rod ends with heat wrap.
Get some spare original type rotors.
I also added my own cooling ducts and wrapped the rod ends with heat wrap.
#11
Melting Slicks
There are always two or more points of view, but John is right, one mistake with the brake system can wipe out your ride and possibly somebody else's. OTOH, you have to decide what is important, if you want to be agressive get the upgrades, if you want to learn to drive better and are willing to back off some then even the stock brakes will work. I'm still running stock after 3 years but I know I have a system with limits even though I've run as many as 5 days in a month. Lots of bleeding and good cooling seem to work, at least for me. But I seem to have found the limits I'm comfortable pushing this set up to and will upgrade at some point. Main point is be safe and don't push beyond what feels good while being aware of changes in how the system responds.
#12
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St. Jude Vendor Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by StArrow68
There are always two or more points of view, but John is right, one mistake with the brake system can wipe out your ride and possibly somebody else's. OTOH, you have to decide what is important, if you want to be agressive get the upgrades, if you want to learn to drive better and are willing to back off some then even the stock brakes will work. I'm still running stock after 3 years but I know I have a system with limits even though I've run as many as 5 days in a month. Lots of bleeding and good cooling seem to work, at least for me. But I seem to have found the limits I'm comfortable pushing this set up to and will upgrade at some point. Main point is be safe and don't push beyond what feels good while being aware of changes in how the system responds.
I think this is correct. Determine what you goals are and find a comfort zone that works with whatever your combo happens to be.
At some point, you will move beyond that level and need to step up. the good thing about upgrading sooner is that you will have a higher comfort zone without taxing the equipment.
Either way, be safe and adjust your learning curve to match your ability and the ability of your car.
LG
#13
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by LG Motorsports
...... Either way, be safe and adjust your learning curve to match your ability and the ability of your car.
LG
LG
You can run stock for quite a while but back off when it the equipment starts talking to you - then get your mod money ready