Cobra4B

I haven't run on track since Mazdadrivers VIR Grand course last summer. I got my hoosier scurbbs from Bob Chick who guarantees that they have at least 70% tread. They looked great and still do. I've only used them for that one event.

I'll be running the Mazdadrivers VIR North event at the end of the month and then the Grand event again in the summer.

Will my tires be ok for both events? Or should I be ordering another set of tires before the summer event?

John Shiels

Hard to say unless you have depth/wear holes to gauge the wear. I bought some new Hoosiers and they didn't have any. They look great the BOOM cords. That's why a second set is needed. Pay for a track day and no tires after first session. I even had some slicks that the wear holes were good and still corded them.

MattW_VA

I'd like to know if there is a good rule of thumb as far as age goes. I got some of the VRL scuffs last season. They all have a fair amount of tread left, but they seem to take longer to "come in" and they seem to fall off a little quicker too. Although it was freakin freezing out when I ran them at VIR a couple of weekends ago, I'm sure that didn't help.

Z11409

Tread is not the rulling factor--number of heat cycles is(how many times heated and cooled).I run mine until I think there is oil on the track but in reallity there is not any oil on track.

emf

. . . I thought you were supposed to run 'em 'till the whole traction surface was cord

Falcon

Run 'em until you can't stay on track. My 710's still have thread left when I throw them away, but they are so greasy at that time it is more work to stay on track than they're worth.

I'd go by the seat of the pants feel.

Olitho

I agree.

I ran a set of Kumhos that were behaving really nasty. I was all over the track and had several spins on slower corners. Finally I threw it away hard on a faster part of the track. I hit the dirt so hard exiting the track backwards/sideways a bit, I somehow cracked my rear fender. I just heard a big crunch.

It sounded worse that it was, but still, I learned a lesson. It was pennywise and dollar foolish to try squeeze the value from the tires. I know this particular track well. I had never spun on it before those AM hours track session. Once I changed the rear tires, I never had a spin the rest of that Saturday nor on Sunday and never since on that track. My lap times got 3 seconds faster, too, and I was working less hard to do it.

GTB/ZR-1

Get a durometer, and if they stick over 78-80, they're done

Sidney004

I am using Bob Chick GAC's as well. While I can't argue with anyone's advice so far, newer tires are always better and faster; I can share a cheapskates approach to maximizing GAC tire usage. I have been using GAC's for a year and am on my second set; I run 275/40-17 all around on a 94 LT1. I got 4 events on my first set, each event consisted of (4) 20-25 minute sessions. The laptimes at Laguna Seca for the last event were about the same as the first event(1:49.5's.) After the first event (4 heat cycles) I rotate the tires front to rear and use a 3 day cycle of Formula V(as per directions) 4 days before the event. The tires felt good and were fast. Next event, I dismount the tires and rotate from side to side and reapply the Formula V treatment. Fourth event, I rotate front to rear and reapply Formula V. After 4 events, the tires were beginning to cord, which coincides with the bottom of the wear holes. The tires wore evenly and were fast till the end. The durometer sounds like a real good idea.

Mikelly

I gave up on slicks for the Vette and will be on my streets... Kumho Ecsta MXs. I'll get back on the track tire bandwagon when I get the track car squared away!

Mike

varkwso

It pains me greatly to agree with Jody - but I do the same. It offends me greatly to throw away a tire with tread - but I do it occasionally if it cannot stay on the track.

I do run my tires till they are "dun" and it really does effect how fast you can go....

Falcon

That puts you in good company!